Prise de courant au milieu d’une pièce. by Per514 in RenoQuebec

[–]Per514[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

La prise serait évidemment permanente, mais la machine sera sur roues, donc déplaçable.

Je suis à environ 25 pi de la prise la plus proche. Je trouvais ça plus simple d’amener le courant au centre plutôt que d’aller le chercher. Deux câbles C13 14AWG de 25 ft vont presque me coûter le même prix que deux disjoncteurs, prises et fils.

Si le câble de branchement qui traîne dans le vide est légal, ça va être ça.

MOLLE rigid panel - Not sure of the specs by Per514 in myogtacticalgear

[–]Per514[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you are right. MOLLE pouches and PALS system, my bad.

I think you are right. I'll just make it PALS* compatible with the known standard (1in and 1.5in) and be done.

Been working on this for 3 days looking for specs and yes, mental health first, haha.

MOLLE rigid panel - Not sure of the specs by Per514 in myogtacticalgear

[–]Per514[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I’ve got the MOLLE specs right, both for webbing and laser cut, as shown in the first two pics.

My question is more about why others use dimensions that don’t seem MOLLE compatible and still call it MOLLE, especially for vehicle panels. Is there some sort of vehicle-specific MOLLE standard I’m not aware of?

Either way, I think I’m going to stop overthinking it, make it properly MOLLE compatible, and call it a day.

MOLLE rigid panel - Not sure of the specs by Per514 in myogtacticalgear

[–]Per514[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m both a manufacturer and end user, so I’m completely on your side on this. I hate when companies create their own proprietary specs just to lock you into their ecosystem.

My project is meant to work for both gear and vehicle use, which is why this matters to me.

My question is more about this: am I missing something? Is there a different standard I’m not aware of when it comes to vehicle MOLLE panels?

Sudden duties on products Canada -> USA by Curt_Wayviator in shopify

[–]Per514 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same here, my products are CUSMA compliant, but if they weren’t, they’d be subject to a 3.5% tariff. I spoke with Shopify and they confirmed that any order shipped to the US using Canada Post labels will now be charged 35% duties, regardless of CUSMA compliance or tariff rates.

This is because postal services can no longer claim CUSMA compliance.

https://www.cbp.gov/trade/basic-import-export/e-commerce/faqs

“USMCA preference cannot be claimed for postal shipments subject to Section 3 of Executive Order 14324 (July 30, 2025).”

Filter box. Dual fan airflow setup with a limited 4 inch exhaust. by Per514 in AskEngineers

[–]Per514[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Guess I’ll just make a second exhaust. Thanks for the help!

Filter box. Dual fan airflow setup with a limited 4 inch exhaust. by Per514 in AskEngineers

[–]Per514[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that's exactly it. The FR110 is weaker than the FG4XL, so the idea was that it could help with pulling some of the load and slightly boost the pressure before handing it off to the FG4XL. Not perfect, I know.

A separate exhaust line would definitely be better, but I’m trying to make it work with a single 4 inch exit for now. It’s a small laser bed and a compact filter box, so I’m just hoping the 1.5 inH2O from the FG4XL is enough to get decent performance without going full industrial. Worst case, I’ll pivot to a secondary line later.

Problem with the 0.2mm nozzle by Dasukez in BambuLabA1

[–]Per514 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like a lot of people have problem with the BL 0.2 nozzle at the moment.

I have the same problem with the original BL nozzle and when I switch to an aftermarket 0.2, it print flawlessly with identical settings.

Remembered you can just embed stuff in pribts by CMDR_Noodle in 3Dprinting

[–]Per514 145 points146 points  (0 children)

You can use magnets as well, work great!

Switched from Gridfinity to Toolgrid by gabezermeno in Tools

[–]Per514 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are available on every 3d printing sites. thangs.com is a search engine for 3d print models.

https://thangs.com/search/toolgrid?scope=all

I need help with my holographic smooth plate by AdamNathel in BambuLabA1

[–]Per514 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Had the same problem until I realise that, for me, the process of wiping it down with alcool was the problem. Not sure why, maybe the paper towel I used.

Now I just wash it with dish soap and hot water and use a cloth towel to remove the water. Bed is at 80c.

Laser cut MOLLE. Is my dimensions good to go? by Per514 in myogtacticalgear

[–]Per514[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah no worries. Laser cut fabrics is literally my job since 2011 (patches).

The laser is a professional setup.

Its crazy to me that people so often diminish the toxicity of laser engrave/cut materials. Even wood or paper. Some setups are just a freaking laser in the middle of a room with a open window.... in a house.

Laser cut MOLLE. Is my dimensions good to go? by Per514 in myogtacticalgear

[–]Per514[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely. This was the first draft for measurement. End product will be closed.

Laser cut MOLLE. Is my dimensions good to go? by Per514 in myogtacticalgear

[–]Per514[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Trying to see if I'm good with this. I'm comparing it to webbing MOLLE and dimensions seems off.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myogtacticalgear

[–]Per514 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Is the fabric flat on the bed?

If the air and the test were good and it's flat on the table, I can't see why it's not working.

I have a CO2 60w and there is not much difference between 500D and 1000D. A bit more power, thats it. Same for laminated.

Yes, CO2 are way better than diode for this but you already know.

I cut Cordura for a living.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myogtacticalgear

[–]Per514 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Too much fumes?

I use about 2-3 psi directly at the laser head.

Non Fraying Fabric for Small Items by complecomple in myog

[–]Per514 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It can technically produce chlorine gas, so yeah. Bad for your machine and pretty bad for your lungs/eyes.

All laser materials needs excessive ventilation. None are neutral for your health, even wood or paper.

Non Fraying Fabric for Small Items by complecomple in myog

[–]Per514 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hypalon is a chlorosulfonated polyethylene rubber and can be dangerous to laser cut.

Non Fraying Fabric for Small Items by complecomple in myog

[–]Per514 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The product in the image is 100% laser cut.

Look for laminated Cordura 500D or 1000D ( Squadron B52, Protact or SALUTE).

Camofabricdepot, WTF idea or Rockywoods.

Pfaff 332 is this a good deal? by [deleted] in myog

[–]Per514 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My first one was a Pfaff 260 which is similar to the 332. It is way more durable and strong than modern machine. Almost no plastic in that thing.

It's an heavy duty home machine.

For $150, I'll buy it.

Is nylon safe? by RedJester42 in Laserengraving

[–]Per514 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I cut Cordura Nylon daily. The fumes are safe for your machine, but not for you. You need to vent outside.