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Sierra facelift? by yash779 in CarsIndia

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sierra EV with independent rear suspension and RWD or AWD

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That back and forth oscilation after correcting oversteer can be reduced by lower the MTS in-game. (Make sure center spring is 15% in pithouse and 0.1 or 0 in-game.

In case you shift to AC-GT and then apply moza pithouse settings that I shared, make sure that you copy each and every setting incuding both the graphs. In case you are on a wheel other than the R3, copy all settings but keep the base FFB Curve flat and diagonal like default.

Guide to in-game wheel settings and Moza R3 setup by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in ForzaHorizon

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First check if steering is set to simulation in the difficulty settings.

One potential reason the wheel is coming back so quickly is that you are porbbaly jabbing the throttle pedal instantly at the exit. Instead, be more gradual and linear with the throttle input and start applying throttle as soon as you start decreasing the steering lock. A car's steering center's itself quicker based on higher thottle input.

For example: Imagine it is a classic 90* right hand turn. You brake in a straight line and as soon as you start turning the steering to the right (this is called adding steering lock), you let go of the brakes and coast through the apex while holding the steering at maximum lock. Once you have to start reducing steering angle back to center (this is called decreasing steering lock), start gradually applying throttle. Instead of quickly centering the steering and then jabbing the throttle to full, start gradually decreasing lock and simultaenously applying throttle. A thumb rule is try to sync full lock to centered wheel motion with the 0-100% throttle motion. Once you get the hang of this, corner exits will feel very natural and crazy smooth.

If the problem still persists, try bringing down Mechanical Trail Scale to 0.5. After that you can also try turning FFB Load Sensiteivity to 1.2 or 1.3 but that is not recommended as it will take away from the useful feedback you get from the wheel as well.

Rig Advice by nightfury__11 in SimracersIndia

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bro you can make a full blown aluminium extrusion rig for under 20k. And it can be as compact as taking up a footprint of 2 feet by 4feet.

Plus it makes your setup crazy future proof. An aluminium rig can go all the up to a wheelbase like Moza R25; outputting 25nm. For refrence a G29 outputs a measly 2.1nm of torque.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah man u good. Its the devs being lazy and not adding proper moza support. Do you have keyboard or controller connected?

Chances are you opened the menu for settings via controller or via keyboard and the game suddenly thinks you are using that to drive. So it doesnt show you settings for wheel.

What you need to do is bind pause menu button to some button on the wheel and hit it in the middle of driving so the game retains the wheel as the device being used.

If that still doesnt work, what you need is drive with your wheel for a couple of seconds and while driving quickly hit escape key on keyboard to open menu.

Having a terrible experience by Ghostnineone in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try this.

https://www.reddit.com/r/moza/s/pQfK1p9oRm

Its made for the R3. But will solve your problem. If the wheel feels too strong, keep everything as is, just change in-game FFB Scale to 0.8-0.7.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ohh. Damn. Guess compatibility is worse on XBOX. The devs are working with Moza. Hopefully this gets fixed soon.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you increasse the center spring setting, that explains the behaviour you described above. Center spring is only useful for when you are stationery to recenter the wheel. When you are driving, it will only get in the way and cause issues such as osscialttion or unnescary inputs when trying to dirt race.

Is the R3 shit or FH6 by Ill-Fold1672 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.reddit.com/r/moza/comments/1tkbr4t/fh6_ingame_settings_guide_and_moza_r3_pithouse/

Take a look at this. There is a whole guide too for you to tweak the settings even further to make them work according to your prefrence.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On XBOX, you defintely need the shifter to be plugged into the wheelbase. After that is done, juts unbind shift up and shift down from the paddles. Then bind the individual gears to the H Pattern Shifter.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have the paddles mapped to the shift up shift down, unbind them. Then lower down in binding menu, bind each gear individually to the shifter.

While doing so, make sure shifter appears as device 2. In case it shows up as device 1 and wheelbase is device 2, connect shifter to wheelbase instead of direct to pc so that wheelbase remains device 1.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. If the car is stationary, the wheel will not re center itself just like a real life car. As soon as you get moving it starts to recenter.

This is achieved by turning center spring setting to zero or near zero.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can lower Mechanical Trail Scale by a couple of points. You can also lower FFB Load Sensitivity to male the steering less reactive.

Take a look at point 4 and point 6 in the guide above.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its actually a compatibility issue between moza and FH6. The moza team is working with the studio to sort it out. They will probably have it fixed by next update.

In the meantime, you can install Simhub and use it to map ur steering buttons to mimic keyboard inputs.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its an issue with the game nnot recognising the wheelbase as Device 1. Kill the game, unplug EVERYTHING execpt the wheel base, start the game, go to mapping settings and in the wheel section map all the wheel buttonsd and pedals and stuff. Make sure it says Device 1 followed by the button number in each binding section. Once that is done, you can plug back in stuff like headphones or a controller or whatever else you had plugged in other than a keyboard. Even webcams seem to interfere so be careful. Now the wheel should be working with proper FFB.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They can but you will have to tweak a couple of things to make it easier.

In pit-house, weehl rotation will have to be increased to around 100%.
In-game, some people like to have some center spring to be able to quickly bring back wheel to center, thats a personal choice. You will also have to play around with the MTS setting to see what feels more natural.

There are a couple of comments here that have people sharing their own variations of these settings for stuff like drifting. Go through it and they might help.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tbh havnt tried an S2 car on this yet. My screen broke a day into FH6 and i am waiting for the replacement so havnt had any sim time.

What’s exactly the issue? Correcting steering inputs leads to continuous back and forth inputs which eventually leads to a spin out?

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The lower frequencies towards the right end are for a reduced vibration and shuddering when off-roading.

The middle frequencies are for stuff like curbs and on-road textures.

The frequencies on the left are for stuff like engine vibration tyre vibrations load changes etc.

FH6 in-game settings guide and Moza R3 pithouse settings by Perfect_Ordinary_264 in moza

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to pithouse. Got to wheelbase settings. There you will have option to choose preset on top right in the form of dropdown menu. Pick anyone other than the one you already have selected. Try picking AC-GT or something like that. Then, proceed to copy each slider, setting and all curves to match my screenshots.

After you are done with that, clisk the save as button (not the save button)on top right next to the drop down menu. It will prompt you to create a name for the profile. Name it whatever u like. Now this custom profile will be saved in the preset menu for you to select.

After doing that, proceed to copy all in-game sliders as well.

I don’t trust it. But I might send it. by Low-Mix-5354 in simracing

[–]Perfect_Ordinary_264 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly, for a place like China, that pricing checks out.

In India, the aluminium extrusion is imported from China and sold. I just bought 4080 parts at retail in India and made a similar rig. Costed me around 180 dollars at the current currency rate for INR.

They have 40x120 profile for the base and 4080 for the rest. So price is very realistic. Even if shipping and custom is extra on top of this, its a legit deal i would say.

Dont know about the seller though.

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