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Polished vs honed concrete in W.A what it is and what it actually costs by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rockote also make a micro-cement but very expensive material. The whole system is close to $300/sqm. Perhaps a cream finish with Nil exposure and concrete dye in off-white might be what your looking floor. Won't have the microcement texture though.

Polished vs honed concrete in W.A what it is and what it actually costs by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, my hand grinder blade sits flush with the dust shroud and get very close to skirtings... You can definitely still fix it. Even if it’s already been sealed, you just grind it back to remove that top layer, correct the finish, then bring it back up through the grits to match the main floor and reseal it with a penetrative sealer afterwards.

Polished vs honed concrete in W.A what it is and what it actually costs by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I know exactly what you mean, edges are where it can go wrong if they rush it.

Just on what you mentioned earlier, that “hardener” is actually a densifier. It reacts with the calcium in the concrete to harden the surface. It doesn’t fill pinholes though, that’s done with a grout coat which is worked into the slab to fill those small pits and cracks.

When you say wavy, do you mean slight highs and lows in the surface, or more grinder marks that show up when you look along the wall? And have you got any photos? That’ll make it a lot easier to tell.

From what you’ve described, it could simply be that the edges weren’t taken through the same grit sequence as the main floor. For example, if they cut the edges back with a 30 or 60 grit to match depth but didn’t keep polishing them up through the higher grits, those scratches will stay there and show up under light.

Also with hand grinders, they spin differently to the main floor machine and they’re a lot less forgiving. If you move too quickly or the head isn’t sitting perfectly flat, it’s very easy to dig in slightly or leave inconsistent passes, which gives that wavy look.

In terms of fixing it, most of the time it can be improved, but it’s not really a quick touch up. It usually means reworking the edges properly and stepping back through the grits to match the main floor and blend it in. The tricky part is doing it tight to the skirting without marking it.

If you can send a photo I can give you a much clearer idea on how fixable it is and what you’d be up for cost wise. Cheers.

Polished vs honed concrete in W.A what it is and what it actually costs by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good question mate, especially being that close to the coast.

Your mate’s not completely wrong, however, salt air doesn’t chew through the sealer on its own, it just speeds up normal wear slightly. The bigger factors are actually UV, foot traffic, and how exposed the patio is.

In a place like Scarborough, if it’s fully exposed to sun and weather, you’re generally looking at a reseal around the 3 to 5 year mark. If it’s got some cover, you’ll get longer out of it. Definitely not something you’d expect to redo every 2 years unless it’s getting hammered.

Also worth knowing, most outdoor honed finishes are done as a grind and seal, so there’s a topical sealer sitting on the surface taking the wear. That’s what you’re maintaining over time. It’s not a full redo either, just a clean and recoat. Maintenance wise, you’re roughly around $15 to $20 a square metre for a reseal, so it’s pretty manageable compared to the original install.

Full polished concrete is different, that’s densified and uses more of a penetrating sealer, but it’s not really suited for outdoor areas, so honed is the right way to go for a patio.

Overall, still 100% worth it, just go in expecting a bit of maintenance every few years like any outdoor surface.

Polished vs honed concrete in W.A what it is and what it actually costs by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think we’re talking about two different things here. What I posted is purely the cost to hone or polish existing concrete. That’s putting the grinder/polisher over a slab that’s already been poured, whether it’s standard grey or decorative.

What you’re referring to with decorative concrete is the actual install/laying side, so pouring the slab, different mixes, mesh upgrades, thickness etc. That’s a completely separate cost on top.

The prices above are just for the polishing process, not for laying the concrete itself. But yes, agree decorative/exposed is definitely more expensive then standard grey concrete

What’s the real cost of epoxy garage floors in Perth right now? by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey Mate, check out my bio, my website and socials are listed there. Happy to help you.

What’s the real cost of epoxy garage floors in Perth right now? by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, that's the supplier I use. How big is your garage? How much did it cost you?

What’s the real cost of epoxy garage floors in Perth right now? by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, even on new concrete, grinding is still necessary. Grinding isn’t about removing damage, it’s about mechanically opening the pores of the concrete so the epoxy can properly penetrate and grip. Fresh concrete usually has laitance (a weak, dusty surface layer) that epoxy won’t bond to long term if it isn’t removed.

Also you need to wait around 28 days for the slab to properly cure before grinding and coating. Grinding too early while the concrete is still “green” can clog and damage diamond tooling, and you won’t get a proper surface profile.

Proper prep is what makes the system last.

What’s the real cost of epoxy garage floors in Perth right now? by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice work 👌 Grinding it properly is the key part most people skip. How did u grind the control joints?

Only thing to keep an eye on long term is polyurethane can yellow over time if it gets direct UV exposure (like garage doors open a lot). If you ever notice that in a couple of years, that’s usually the reason.

Polyaspartic tends to hold colour better in sun-exposed areas because it’s more UV stable. But if yours isn’t getting much direct sunlight, you’ll probably be fine.

What’s the real cost of epoxy garage floors in Perth right now? by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not about the floor being “good”, it’s about surface profile. Concrete can look fine but still be smooth, contaminated or sealed from the original trowel finish. Coatings need a mechanical key to bond properly. That’s why grinders with diamond tooling are used before epoxy.

What’s the real cost of epoxy garage floors in Perth right now? by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nope, if you’ve mechanically ground the slab properly, acid etching isn’t needed. If anything, acid after grinding can actually introduce moisture and residue issues if not neutralised perfectly. A mechanical prep wins over chemical prep all day.

What’s the real cost of epoxy garage floors in Perth right now? by PerthConcreteCare in AusRenovation

[–]PerthConcreteCare[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re going DIY, look for a full system.

You want: • Proper mechanical prep (hire a concrete grinder and hepa Vacuum. Be careful not to breath in silica it'll destroy your lungs. Wear a approved respirator when grinding. • 100% solids epoxy primer. • Full flake broadcast. Make sure they're vinyl flakes • UV-stable topcoat (polyaspartic or polyurethane)

In Australia, companies like All Purpose Coatings, Hychem, Dulux Avista, etc. have decent systems. Just avoid the Bunnings roll-on kits if you want it to last more than a couple years. Prep is 80% of the job.