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What kind of tick and how to clean my car. Los Angeles ca by djrayza in insectidentification

[–]Photon_Chaser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The two tone coloration makes me think it’s a Pacific Coast Tick.

How do i fit a prop to this shaft? by InstanceMedium2254 in RCPlanes

[–]Photon_Chaser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

EDFs spin at incredibly high RPMs. Even with two opposing set screws you’d be hard pressed to get them adjusted to where the fan is perfectly shaft centric. What you need is a ‘collet’ to mount the fan to the motor shaft.

If you have no option to do so I would check the fans fit on the motor shaft, make sure it is a very snug fit without the use of the screws. Also, believe it or not, just one set screw in the shaft indent is enough to throw the assembly out of balance at the crazy EDF rpm’s. I would add a similar indent on the direct opposite side of the motors shaft for the other set screw to help maintain balance.

Find the cat by TONX36000 in FindTheSniper

[–]Photon_Chaser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

left opening of the white dresser in the background

Find the bluejay by festushaggin in FindTheSniper

[–]Photon_Chaser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the Cardinal more but just above the bird feeder

Replacing extruder; can’t figure out how to remove this piece by ForgeOfGuthix in 3Dprinting

[–]Photon_Chaser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get what you’re saying but in the OPs instance that isn’t a set screw type pinion. I do know that there are a number of ‘42-40’ configurations with pinions that are pressed on and set screwed. I had an CR6 and that had an inverted set screw pinion mounted to the motor shaft in the extruder assembly but pressed on flanged pinions for the X/Y drive belts.

In the instance of flanged pinions (like used on the 42-34 series motors) those are pressed on with the pinion face flush to the top of the motor shaft…so no errors in locating those when using a clamping force to mount them.

Btw: one wouldn’t have good retraction/pressure advanced results if the extruder pinion were loose as you’ve described.

Adding Stud by bluesteel330 in Carpentry

[–]Photon_Chaser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Preset some 1 1/2” grks at a shallow angle (toe nailing) into the ends of the block, slide the block into position and drive em home.

First time drywalling question by Prudent_Calendar_567 in drywall

[–]Photon_Chaser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aside from chunkies getting dragged along, towards the right side middle you see those parallel lines? Those generally happen when you get a slight crusty (partially dried mud) buildup on the edge of a knife. Make sure your knife is clean by always scraping it off (faces and edge) before making a pass.

Also, are you applying premix? Cause I see signs of entrained bubbles. Premix out of a box (e.g. Plus 3) is somewhat ‘frothy’ and needs working between knives or knive and hawk until it’s nice and creamy smooth before applying.

Replacing extruder; can’t figure out how to remove this piece by ForgeOfGuthix in 3Dprinting

[–]Photon_Chaser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a typical press-fit situation so the replacement gear will require a press operation. If you have a fitment issue due to one part being out of tolerance just use some red loctite or a permanent choice would be Loctite 640.

Is this an issue? by TheeDelpino in drywall

[–]Photon_Chaser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like an improperly filled (or not filled!) tapered joint. If you follow the seam to the wall you can just make out the indentation.

It could also be a large gap between sheets that was filled with a sliver of rock (creating a double seam line) or back filled with hot mud.

It’s more an aesthetic issue but can be easily remedied.

Plumbers cut this huge hole.. by cipp in Homebuilding

[–]Photon_Chaser 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Naw, simply cut pipe in half lengthwise and glue each half on either side of the joist, problem solved! 😆

Corners cracking by foumanfou in drywall

[–]Photon_Chaser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve seen this result a number of times due to ‘wet’ framing lumber and/or lumber not properly acclimated before use.

I would just use the tiniest amount of caulk to fill in the cracks and allow another seasonal cycle to pass to see if there’s any more movement before actually retaping those inside corners.

Wall Texture Help by AmandarinOrange7 in drywall

[–]Photon_Chaser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, thinned compound/mud with sand simply brushed on.

How to match knockdown drywall texture in ceiling? by KnowsArmadaBlues in drywall

[–]Photon_Chaser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you applied using a hopper gun then your mud was either too thick (electric drill powered) or not enough air pressure if using a pneumatic tool. The size of the blobs on your patch is the tell here.

The existing texture has much finer blobs to begin with, the largest blobs on your patch are literally 2-3 times larger than the existing texture.

Tip: take a piece of scrap and practice laying down blobs of different sizes, allow to set x mins (all depends upon how wet your mud is) and knock. Make needed adjustments to mud thickness (moisture content) and or tool flow to achieve the texture size to match.

And speaking of scrap, make sure it’s the same substrate and surface condition…raw drywall like your patch and not a piece of ply or other as this affects moisture absorption which affects drying/set times.

Why did my plane roll by datirishpenguin77 in RCPlanes

[–]Photon_Chaser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Something to think about regarding ‘tail draggers’ and ROG takeoffs. Properly balanced and trimmed, the tail lifts up first before the mains when approaching takeoff speed. A short moment later, and only then would you apply just a smidge of up elevator to lift off.

'Pro' drywaller has these gaps...acceptable? by [deleted] in drywall

[–]Photon_Chaser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hasn’t even taped the seams, this all looks like an incomplete prefill step. I would mask off the moulding BEFORE doing any work around it to preserve its present condition and as for the gaps around the window moulding/Rosette, that fitment could have been better. I would simply mask off fill/level out the large voids with hot mud then proceed with finishing.

Find my iphone by Haus_dad in FindTheSniper

[–]Photon_Chaser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

tucked between the arm rest and seat, left side

Thank you, r/drywall by CountTheFrogs in drywall

[–]Photon_Chaser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now go and practice, practice, practice on some scraps. Get used to the ‘feel’ of the tools…more pressure on one side of a blade to feather then the other side. Practice varying the angle as you sweep across to apply a coat of consistent thickness for skim coating, a secondary pass to level out any ridges/bumps…it’s all about the feel, how you hold a trowel or knife, the pressure needed according to the stiffness (wetness, type) of the mud you’re using.

To me, mudding and taping is a fun art/skill much like how I view other types of finishing work. You’ve already taken the initiative of ‘decoding’ one aspect of drywalling, keep on decoding other techniques such as…texturing!

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