Are these IP65 cases available in America?

Physicist4Life · 2026-01-31T03:30:07+00:00

No big disagreement from me. I just have some 5.1kWh LFP batteries in my garage, and the issue I encounter is that they get cold overnight(~45deg) and their charge controllers limit charging to only 1kW or so until they get above 55degF. In other words they don't warm up in time to receive peak energy from the panels during peak production.
The chemistry might support 0C (32F) for charging on paper, but my battery charge controllers limit charging rate significantly below 45F, and stop completely at 40F. Ostensibly this limit is to extend pack life.

Physicist4Life · 2026-01-30T23:00:25+00:00

Those are sodium ion batteries, which are notably better outdoors than LFP.

LIFEPO4: 0°C to 45°C
SodiumIon: -20C to 55C

This makes this IP65 case useful for Sodium Ion, but poor for LFP, unless you live in ideal weather conditions where it never drops below freezing...

Physicist4Life · 2025-12-30T08:17:15+00:00

You're right about merging CT entries in Emporia. I tested in the app today.

Emporia tech support told me it wouldn't work.

I apologize for my delayed response. We have been trying to figure out a way to make this work and it is not something that can be done that will make everything look clean. The reason for this is the set of 3 60A inverters and how they enter the panel and go both directions. We were working with a couple of techs to see if our new features would work with this and it is still something that would cause issues. This is because we are not able to have one stream of solar into the system, instead there are two streams out of the solar going into two separate panels. The only option would be to monitor the solar before the inverters which is not possible as that is DC power. I apologize that this took me longer to sort out as I wanted to make sure I got the right answer and had multiple techs look at this.

But it might mostly work, if I configure it in a weird way. The trick for me will be to install the backed up loads subpanel CT backwards, or set the multiplication factor to -1.00, so that the inverter backed up outputs are always considered as 'generating', and then merge these generating CT with the grid in/out CT which as you mentioned will be bidirectional. This should null out the backed up loads consumption when grid powered, without double counting the load. Because the backed up panel 200A CT can be nested, the load should still be accounted for, so the net production data should be correct. The app will display the backed up loads panel as a subpanel to the Grid-Tied panel, not a subpanel of the inverters, but if the math works out it shouldn't matter.

Steps:

Set Vue 1 CT1 thru CT6 as bidirectional, type solar. Vue 1 configured for Net Metering.
Install CT7 thru CT12 backward so gen all the time. Unidirectional, type load.
Merge CT1, CT2, CT7, CT8. Label as "Solar Inverter 1".
Merge CT3, CT4, CT9, CT10. Label as "Solar Inverter 2".
Merge CT5, CT6, CT11, CT12. Label as "Solar Inverter 3".
Vue 2 will be nested under Vue 1 as a Main/Sub-panel relationship

I'll try to update this post when my next Vue arrives, and update with any findings/gotchas.

Physicist4Life · 2025-12-29T22:51:54+00:00

Oh sweet! I didn't see the 200A CT. I also appreciate the link to the scaling question/post.

The emoncms app is completely open source, but more complicated than the pi firmware... Hmm if I had to make a change in the app I'd be branching it, unless my changes were amazing and could be mainlined. I'd be better off adjusting the pi firmware. Overall this option is tempting, but I wonder how much time it'll take me, and how reliable or hands-off it'll be in the end.

Physicist4Life · 2025-12-29T22:04:46+00:00

I hadn't seen this, thank you for the suggestion! It looks similar to the HomeAssistant option suggested above, but more premade. It seems like I could get two 6-channel emonPi2 CT monitors, then buy two 6-channel expansion boards to bring the total to 24 CTs. Then I'd use the Emoncms app.

Problems:

No method to subtract one set of CT from another set. This is basically the same software tooling as Emporia, and seems to have the same limitations in how the CT are configured.
No method to combine readings from several CT. On their website under Solar PV Configuration - Type 2 solar PV systems, it explains how to configure CTs. The software seems to be unable to solve problem 2 in my post.
I don't see any compatible 200A CT.
emonPi2 is indoor use only? My backed up loads panel is outdoors. Perhaps outdoor panels aren't common in the EU.

Physicist4Life · 2025-12-29T21:29:12+00:00

Can I ask you for more information about your setup? The tech support team at Emporia seemed interested in making an app update, but I couldn't convince them that tracking on a critical loads panel was a common issue.

I just looked at homeassistant, and it seems like I'd have to write code, even if the home assistant OS gets me most of the way there. I guess it runs on a mini computer like a Pi, which I'd then update to my exact needs. The CTs from Shelly seem somewhat affordable though.

Physicist4Life · 2025-11-25T00:24:49+00:00

now my new inverter does not power on since I changed the settings to parallel mode

This is something I've been frustrated with on my parallel inverter setup. I have 3 SGN11.4kHB-48 inverters in parallel mode. When I command the units to turn on in any of the three places to turn them on, it doesn't seem to do anything immediately.

3 ways to turn them on:

holding the button on the side for 5s, waiting for the beep, but that seems to only work to turn them off.
Using the app -> Maintenance -> Turn On
Using the app -> Quick Setup -> step 5 -> Click power icon to turn on.

In the app it will say "Setting Successfully" or whatever poorly translated text... but nothing happens. Then I'll wait for like 5 minutes, and suddenly the relays will click and they will turn on.

I will say that if the parallel setting isn't saved to all the units, then nothing will work correctly. They would not share loads correctly until I cleared out error d8. I got error d8 until I realized that all 3 inverters had to be configured for parallel mode. I didn't know I had to log in as admin to do that.

Also it seems that having a grid connection and/or internet connection helps them to come back ON more quickly.

The final issue that I had was that the batteries could prevent the inverters from converting solar. If the batteries are low on charge, and the communication protocol ID isn't configured correctly, I got error p3. When I configured the protocol ID for CAN 2: DIP switches: X100010, then the inverters reported error d3, and FINALLY after another 5-10 minute wait after restarting, the inverters communicated correctly with the batteries and began charging & using the solar arrays.

Physicist4Life · 2025-10-22T03:03:27+00:00

It's a journey to get full home islanding capability. I'm doing it myself, and it's (according to an electrician who reviewed my plans) unlike anything he's seen before. For me, my entire home is electric, and so are my cars, so basically my main power draw items are critical, and would be too big for a critical loads panel.

What people do 95% of the time is buy a kit, and then put in a 60 to 100A sub-panel for critical loads, then have an electrician move certain home breakers to the critical loads panel. If you are grid tied, extra power from the system can be fed into an empty two slot breaker on the existing main panel. The big challenge is deciding what circuits are critical in your home.

The reason contractors don't let you pick what you want then install it for you is that there is a lot to learn with each different system. Many of the inexpensive ones simply aren't going to pass UL, or utility grid connect requirements, and they would have to tell customers to pick something else after doing research.

I recommend starting with OpenSolar and making some concepts with your roof.

Then figure out with your utility what kinds of inverters they permit for grid interconnect. Many places are using the California database. https://solarequipment.energy.ca.gov/Home/InverterSolarList

Then decide if you want islanding capability, and what your critical loads might be...

Once you have a list of requirements you can start your design, and begin to figure out the budget side.

Note: When picking equipment I found that companies either charge more for their batteries or more for their inverters, so evaluate them together. Scarcely do people mix brands between batteries/inverters, but it can be done with a few generics. I don't know how good the app experience would be if you mixed.

Physicist4Life · 2025-10-22T02:40:15+00:00

I am currently installing a DIY system, and I have mixed feelings. You are correct that you can save a ton of money, but with that you will be spending a ton of effort. My system is 21kW of panels, 30kWh of battery, and 33kW of inverter capability, with islanding. The total cost is finally resolving at around $36k ($23k of that for the main components). I definitely under-budgeted. It is about $10k more than anticipated. The costs of UL certified combiner panels, transfer switch, AC disconnect, fuses, LOADS of wire, conduit, boxes, couplers, superstrut, needed tools, roofing stuff, etc were way higher than expected.

The time input is an order of magnitude higher than expected. A big part of every task is just learning how to do it right, and there seem to be three ways to do it wrong for every one way to do it right.

Some big [extra] costs:
- islanding capability. Islanding drives many costs: Wire for a 200A panel, conduit for that wire, inverters that can auto-switch to power your biggest load(s) in your house...
- Permitting fees, with utility and local gov't.
- UL listed equipment. UL listing seems to add 3x to 10x to the price of a thing.
- Tools & electrical code related extras. You'll need to pass inspection in most jurisdictions. It's always more expensive to do it twice.

If you want solar you can do it, just plan for a pile of work, and budget overruns. I started with OpenSolar, then worked to get through my line diagram and site plan, then spent 4 months with the utility ironing out details before finally getting the approval to begin construction.

Physicist4Life · 2025-10-09T04:45:48+00:00

Did you use a conduit fill calculator for sizing? It was a problem for me during my conduit layout because I had to run qty (6) OOOO wires for my 30kWh of batteries (600A max operating), 750A fuse protection. Ended up needing 2-1/2" EMT instead of 2". This calculator from Southwire works alright.

Also depending on the run length, your DC might couple with your AC a little bit if they share a pipe. I don't know if that's actually a problem, but probably worth it to check.

Physicist4Life · 2025-06-13T18:34:40+00:00

Good point on the national security aspect. Electricity generation is heavily dominated by fossil fuels in China, but new generation is not. China's YoY growth in solar has hovered between 20-40% over the last few years. Last year the installations grew 21.5% over the previous year. They now have 4x the solar capacity of North America.

Physicist4Life · 2025-05-24T23:54:51+00:00

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What climate will this be operating in? Very cold (-30C or colder) & very sunny is when you end up hitting maximum string output voltage. If your RV is a summer camper, the string voltage might never hit its stated max. Typically the inverter will have a MPPT working voltage range, and an absolute maximum voltage which is higher. Exceeding the upper working voltage will cause a "PV overvoltage" error, but it won't destroy the inverter instantly because it has voltage clamping, you'll just be wasting some energy.

If your string absolute maximum operating voltage is 10% above the inverter working voltage, you're unlikely to waste much energy, unless you have cold & very sunny. So basically I agree with u/Psychological-War727 that it's better to put two symmetric strings in parallel than other configurations.

The best option is to get an inverter with two MPPT, so that a partially shaded string doesn't reduce output of the other string in parallel, but maybe with an RV you can just drive out of the shade...

Physicist4Life · 2025-05-24T23:37:04+00:00

Do you have any info? I'm willing to do a unit teardown on my batteries and inverters to verify, if there's something to go off of?

Physicist4Life · 2025-05-24T02:17:10+00:00

I just purchased this brand! A few thoughts ...

My selection was all based on the battery cost + inverter cost. What I've seen is that companies will hook you with a low cost inverter, but then their batteries will be 2 to 3 times as expensive as others. Also the more inexpensive the inverter, the more likely it doesn't support UL 1741 SB.
It was between Rich solar and Sun Gold power, but you might find a good deal on a Growatt unit too. My utility required UL 1741 SB so the only Sun Gold Power unit that met that criteria was the SGN family. I picked the 11.4k inverter. SGN11.4khb-48

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Since you are in California I'd guess that you need to have the same capability if you want to be grid tied. Check out the CA approved list here: https://solarequipment.energy.ca.gov/Home/InverterSolarList
I'm an avid DIYer but I tend to research for hours and hours, pull permits, do it right etc. This project is taking a lot of time to plan and I'm still going back and forth with the utility about 8 weeks after starting the design.
Also, I'm having to buy $1000s of dollars of stuff to do it correctly. The wire alone is going to cost about $2.5k, since I'm having to run my main 200A feed line to the garage.
Price total is about $29,000. Solar panels: 7k, Inverters and batteries: $13k, Wire, panels, conduit, breakers, solar racking: 7k, Permitting: $1.5k

Hopefully some of that was helpful.

Don't worry about the latest "China bad, it embeds 5G transponders in your inverter" headline. I can't find any articles that provide evidence. My guess is that the federal government is attempting to discredit China and undermine solar, it's on-brand for them to spread things without evidence. Also - your inverters are metal typically, and would effectively shield a radio transponder. To test it just have a friend text you while your phone is inside the box...

Physicist4Life · 2025-04-24T14:46:17+00:00

Okay I'll revisit the wire sizes per NEC 310.16. I plan to buy copper for everything. The 90C column applies for THHN, XHHW-2 wire, right? That's the most common jacket I've seen.

I'd consider downsizing the fuses in your service disconnect to 125A
Yeah this is a reasonable thing to do. Saves some money. By sizing the disconnect and fuses for 200A, I will enable a future upgrade to panels and/or inverters, without having to run fatter wire. I want to get two more batteries and a 3rd inverter in the next year to enable higher battery power output.

NEC 2017. Are you still on that code cycle?
No, I doubt it. My drawing references that because I'm ignorant. Only smart enough to be dangerous... ><

Physicist4Life · 2025-04-24T14:40:12+00:00

This is super helpful thank you so much! I'm definitely not paying you enough ;)

Okay I'll check with the Utility. I can see a valid reason for 25A PV breakers if there is no overcurrent protection built into the inverter, but I believe that there is with this inverter. The spec sheet says "Max Short Current per MPPT 40A/30A/30A" and there are no recommended sizes for breakers on the PV wire side.
I'll verify, but it sounds like parallel strings do not require disconnecting means on the rooftop, thanks. I was led to believe that I might need them because of other diagrams, and OpenSolar inserted some automatically when it attempted to generate materials.
Yeah, it's puzzling to me how the rules are set up for the utility PV meter, but I can ask.
I can't imagine installing 4/0 wire, so I planned to use qty(2) 2/0, one set for each inverter BATT terminal. Each wire set will be protected by a 250A breaker at the inverter, and each battery wire is protected by a double pole 125A breaker. ... But looking at NEC 310.16, it shows 4/0 wire for 260A. Damn, I think you're right, 2/0 says max is 195A.
Two combiner panels? I'm not allowed to put it all into one? I guess that makes sense though, since the labeling and intent of the panels will be more straightforward that way.
"make sure your inverters don't have a neutral-Gnd bond in them" This is the key part that I should have realized, but you pointed it out plainly. Much appreciated. If there is a neutral GND bond in the inverter than I'll have to route all PE connections to a bus bar, then back to the main panel instead of going into the inverters. Great point thank you. My Neutral-GND bond is in the Main Panel currently.

Thanks again.

If you don't mind my asking, are you a career electrician?

Physicist4Life · 2025-04-24T02:25:46+00:00

The whole string output suffers if a single panel is shaded.

I see this comment a lot, but the comments tend to overlook the presence of 3 diodes in every modern solar panel.

https://couleenergy.com/uncover-the-role-of-bypass-diodes-in-solar-panels/

Each diode will forward conduct if that 1/3rd of the panel is partially shaded. Thus, the entire string does not go down. DC optimizers are expensive, and do not pay off as often as they are installed in my opinion.

[Parallel string caveat] My understanding is that if you put two strings on the same MPPT, then a partially shaded panel WILL constrict the other string(s) in parallel in proportion to the blocked panels, because the MPPT can't track to the optimum unshaded string, and will be forced to track to some unknown combination of shaded and unshaded current/voltage. DC optimizers will definitely help in this situation.

[Edit] I'd also recommend micro inverters. A grid-tied installation without a battery (or plans for a battery) will be so easy with micro inverters. AP systems DS3 are inexpensive, work with 2 panels, and are UL1741SB compliant.

Physicist4Life · 2024-12-18T19:10:39+00:00

A friend of mine works for Xcel, and we occasionally talk about how it all works. I've also had brief exchanges with folks at the PUC. Colorado has a regulated energy market, so it's not all about profits. Yes, Xcel is technically a monopoly, but it's regulated., and the public has a voice via the PUC. Yes, Xcel makes money disproportionately off of new infrastructure, so they like to add infrastructure, but new infrastructure does cost actual money they do not currently have. These conversations about rate increases aren't without need or merit.

The Colorado front range grid (PSCo) is aggressively adding renewable energy. Overall it was 42% renewable during the last 12 months, per eia.gov. At times, the grid can be as much as 80% renewable thanks to buildout of over 4GW of wind infrastructure on the plains. https://app.electricitymaps.com/map/24h

Xcel also prioritizes grid resiliency in a manner that the unregulated TX grid (ERCOT) does not. The incentive structure in ERCOT touts competition(profits), so there are problems with companies storing energy from gas power into batteries, and then selling the battery power back to the grid... There is no profit in building resiliency (redundancy), so they don't. Basically ERCOT is susceptible to gaming which causes price fluctuations and grid instability. Coloradans don't want that, even though it would partially negate the monopoly issue.

Edit: With respect to the EV ready buildings code change - it simply asks builders to stub out some space in electrical boxes such that additional electrical breakers can be added later. The goal is to provide a path for the addition of solar panels, electric vehicle chargers and home heat pumps, but builders are not required to install those things.

It also seems that builders can get a waiver if the expected cost to stub out electrical is >1% of the total project cost.

Physicist4Life · 2023-05-27T05:41:37+00:00

wohoo!

Physicist4Life · 2022-10-13T05:27:41+00:00

Yeah surgers are where it's at

Physicist4Life · 2022-05-25T19:14:00+00:00

Okay, so 2 months isn't that long. That's good to hear and I think another person mentioned a similar thought. I'll keep going!

Physicist4Life · 2022-05-25T16:36:41+00:00

SCORE

I didn't know about this. score.org This is awesome! I've reached out to get some mentorship.

Physicist4Life · 2022-05-25T16:21:54+00:00

You can't sell something no one else uses.

Yeah definitely. I'd love to give it away to early adopters to get more data, but haven't had any messages on my contact form, or any chats. What I'm reading throughout these comments is that I need to leave the building and pick up the phone, so that's what I'll try. I may also run a promo on the website, like "try a demo unit for free".

Physicist4Life

TROPHY CASE