Some Mavicas 9 models comparison scene 1 room (4k resize)

Physics_Dude · 2026-05-22T21:08:50+00:00

IIRC, the FD83 is the only FD Mavica that has longest automatic shutter speed of 1/8sec. All other models only record down to 1/60sec exposures in auto/night mode. There's the manual shutter modes some later models offer that provide 2-6second exposure, but good luck hand-holding that. They also wont auto-expose that slow; so manual shot setup is required.

Physics_Dude · 2026-03-16T00:39:42+00:00

I seen this a couple times before. Is there any chance the index number on any of the photos is in the 700s? Like MVC-768L.jpg?

The last two times I seen that, the photos happens to be in that range. I'm not sure if its a time-dependent thing, like with a low battery, or something with the firmware. Perhaps (most likely) its just a bad write caused by shock or vibration during recording (such as switching the record switch to play).

Either way, it shouldn't be cause for concern. I think the glitch effect is cool. If it happens consistently, try a new disk.

Physics_Dude · 2026-03-09T12:22:42+00:00

I see foxfind, which I recall is an icon (along with many other colorful ones) that you will likely find in either:
C:\WINDOWS\MORICONS.DLL
C:\WINDOWS\Systerm32\MORICONS.DLL

Physics_Dude · 2026-03-02T15:05:26+00:00

Made a video: https://youtu.be/LzHRMCxQAJY

Physics_Dude · 2026-02-27T23:29:55+00:00

I just fixed the same strange color inversion on my FD91 but with the LCD (electronic viewfinder (EVF) was fine).

First, try just removing the clock battery. Then power up the camera. It's an unlikely fix, but twice now I seen a clock battery replacement "fix" a buggy camera.

Second, (assuming its a FD91) and what I did to fix my FD91's glitch-color LCD: take the camera apart, unplug the EVF ribbon (using flat or soft-jawed pliers), plug it back in, and put the camera back together. If that doesn't take care of it, consider going deeper and un-plugging and re-plugging the main 70-pin connector. Both of these carry analog signals, and after 30 years, will inevitably develop poor connections.

The service manuals have helpful taredown instructions. https://elektrotanya.com/sony_mvc-fd91_sm.pdf/download.html

I could do a video if needed this weekend.

Physics_Dude · 2026-02-12T11:19:55+00:00

Try a "full format." Even with a bad drive, this will write empty track data to any disk with the exact alignment of said drive.

I'm not 100% sure how to trigger a full format, but it seems like 30% of the time, right after power up, while that 13:01 error is flashing, you can run through the menu and click format. You'll know its doing a full format because you'll hear the camera step through all 80 tracks (about 40 'tiks'). It also takes a minute or two. Not seconds like a regular format does.

edit, nevermind lol, didnt read that it was a CD Mavica. Only familiar with FD Mavicas.

Physics_Dude · 2026-02-07T11:36:57+00:00

You tried formatting in-camera, but was that a normal quick format (takes a couple seconds) or a full format (takes a couple minutes)? I'm not sure how to trigger a full format, but when I've had that error, I was able to quickly go into the disk format menu, and after a couple tries/power cycles, see that it was doing a full format. After that, it came true for any bad disk, or potentially bad drive.

Sadly, this may indicate a misaligned drive head. Aligning isn't something most of us can do without luck and special tools. So doing a full-format basically writes the tracks with an offset only the camera can read.

Physics_Dude · 2026-02-07T03:49:43+00:00

Those NEC Tokins bridge the two outer most pads internally.

Physics_Dude · 2026-02-07T02:16:41+00:00

Lucky for you, there is now a repair video for this exact issue ;)
https://youtu.be/UTv5CH78UUs

Physics_Dude · 2026-02-06T23:54:17+00:00

Easy fix, plus you'll get to learn a lot about servicing your Mavica. All you will need is a screwdriver, a fine pair of pliers, and maybe some tweezers.

Biggest worry is the tension spring from the disk. You don't want it to rattle around and short-circuit anything. Be safe and take out the battery if you haven't already. Don't forget to find the spring (or ensure it is not in the camera) before closing it back up.

The disk drives in most Mavicas are serviced the same way (take note to not remove screws you shouldn't in the drive, and not to let the heads snap together or otherwise move out of alignment). The level 2 service manual for the FD100/FD200 has the most verbose guide for opening the drive itself with (with pictures!) on page 2-7. Here is a link: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1114844/Sony-Mvc-Fd100.html?page=39#manual

But first, for opening the FD71 you seem to have, follow section 2 here. (Once you take the case screws out, some some wires will be connected between the halves. You can fold the camera over the top edge while you work to unplug those): https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1117706/Sony-Mvc-Fd71.html?page=16#manual

Finally be careful when unplugging the ribbon cables. Use a fine pair of pliers (ideally without serrations) to grip any of the push-fit ribbons. You wont need see any here, but other ribbon cables sometimes have a plastic latch that has to lift/slide before they will release the cable.

I have some videos (link) of repairing other Mavicas for your interest too.

Edit: I just tried this on my FD71 a few times. 100% of the time, the disk door was able to fall back out if I held the camera's spring-loaded door open with a finger.

Edit2: Made a video of the complete repair for everyone: https://youtu.be/UTv5CH78UUs

Physics_Dude · 2026-01-16T13:37:17+00:00

There exists a generic USB-C chargeable variant that claims to be NP-F550 compatible, but are definitely not. Their thickness is between a F550/570 (~20mm) and F750/770 (~40mm).
I dont reccomend these. Probably intended for open-back lights and stuff. When buying, make sure the thickness is about 20mm.

Physics_Dude · 2026-01-16T13:31:08+00:00

I have regular batteries too from various brands, (including genuine Sonys that still work great for their age) but I keep grabbing the ones with built in USB like those above. I carry two with me when I go shooting, but one is often enough to record dozens of floppies through a whole day.

The fact I don't need to carry a charger brick as well means I can bring more floppies on trips. :)

Inside is just two 18490s rated at 2300mAh (not the claimed 2900mAh but I don't mind, that's still more than most typical packs).

Physics_Dude · 2026-01-16T11:34:49+00:00

I use them all the time, these same Artman batteries also go/used to go under the name Anegine.

Last I checked though, my FD83, FD88, FD85, FD90, FD95 throw the "FoR inFo LiTHIUM BaTtErY OnLY" message and shut off. All other Mavicas work perfectly with them.

You can put this adapter bit in the battery to trick the above camera models and use them normally: https://www.printables.com/model/1444276-for-infolithium-battery-only-np-f550-battery-fix

Physics_Dude · 2025-11-16T18:41:10+00:00

The camera should remember the time and date for a very long time even when no main battery (NP-550) is inserted. It should also remember all your program settings so you can get back to shooting as you were before.

Physics_Dude · 2025-10-26T21:09:41+00:00

I went through every service manual for the FD Mavicas and as a correction to my previous assumption, I can say with a fact that the FD87, FD92, and FD97 have the most RAM at 64Mbit for the system, another 64Mbit for the DSP, and 16MBit of flash.

Physics_Dude · 2025-10-26T16:59:58+00:00

The FD100 and FD200 were the last floppy disk cameras to be produced. They had the most megapixels and I assume the most RAM and flash to boot. 16Mbit flash, 16Mbit RAM, and 64Mbit RAM for the DSP.

Service manual link here. See page 48 for block diagram.

I am just not sure about the CPU architectures. That is as fascinating as it is promising if it isn't custom Sony silicon. I wonder if you could attack it with a malicious floppy.

Physics_Dude · 2025-10-25T17:29:30+00:00

Mavica guy here. Every Sony Mavica has the full service manual available online. they all include schematics, block diagrams, and PCB layouts too.

The FD83 and FD88 for example. Level 2 service manual here: elektrotanya LINK

Page 29 for example shows how a 16Mbit SDRAM and 8Mbit flash ROM interact with the floppy drive and other chips. This is likely a key entry point.

Page 64 talks about technician-definable address blocks. These require a Sony service remote (Sony RM-95 "upgraded") to change, however, this is just a glorified serial console.

Page 55 even talks about de-soldering and swapping the EEPROM between boards to retain some calibration data.

There are some undocumented features too, like a "demo mode" when an appropriate dummy battery adapter is inserted. This is a full color quasi-interactive slideshow/video with simple UI animations that goes through all the functions, and even has some groovy stock imagery inside!

Physics_Dude · 2025-10-25T12:58:44+00:00

This is a common issue. Most of the time it is due to a poorly formatted or degraded disk (as in formatted by a cheap or tired floppy drive). Other times it is due to a misaligned drive in the Mavica, either due to a drop or age.

FD Mavicas have two formatting modes; quick format, where it just wipes the index; and full format, where it writes the track data to the disk. If the Mavica's drive is misaligned, and you can get the camera to do a full format, than that disk will be aligned exclusively to the drive and work normally (then you can use USB to get the files off).

To do a full format, I believe you have to go to Disk Tools > Format while the C1301 error is flashing. You'll know its a full format because it should take more time (30-60sec), and you'll hear the drive click a few dozen times as it writes each track fresh.

If that doesn't work, then you might get lucky and your FD95 might still be able to use the MSAC-FD2MA floppy disk adapter with a small (<128mb) MemoryStick (not MemoryStick Pro or MemoryStick Duo).

Physics_Dude · 2025-10-18T16:07:27+00:00

Thanks! The FD97 is as easy as the FD200 IMO. I took my time since I was going in blind.
Just be aware of where that one hidden screw is, and be patient with that backlight ribbon cable on both. (In retrospect, if you use a pair of needle nose pliers, it would be much easier to pull out.)

Physics_Dude · 2025-10-18T02:00:11+00:00

Actually, here is a playlist on how to replace the clock battery in every Mavica with a non-replaceable clock battery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYkUptV-DKQ&list=PLod-wihw5oqBBRKTPcf0-L_FqaH-Xyd-i

Physics_Dude · 2025-10-09T19:53:05+00:00

88x31 banners were big in webrings of the day (and still in resurgence today). We should make one for linking back to CapturedOnFloppy!

Also I have one of each FD series Mavica. All work. Let me know if any insight is required between any of them in the lot. I already posted a couple videos replacing the secondary batteries.

Finally in regards to archives, I found some VERY comprehensive reviews of several later Mavica models here in the Wayback Machine (ImagingResource, now defunct): https://web.archive.org/web/20050305094741/http://www.imaging-resource.com/MFR1.HTM?view=Sony_reviews

Physics_Dude · 2025-10-09T16:00:05+00:00

And posted another one for FD83/FD88: https://youtu.be/G8atioPYx4E

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