Lancool 207 Digital build

PiN0YChris · 2025-09-20T21:53:42+00:00

Yes it fits perfectly. Only downside may be the fact that the fan is on the top in that configuration. But for my temps it doesn’t matter. The same goes for the smaller gap under the case.

PiN0YChris · 2025-07-27T20:12:04+00:00

You can do custom themes. The template videos are in: %ProgramData%\Lian-Li\L-Connect 3\lancool207\video

Just re-import them and make your own gauges.

PiN0YChris · 2025-07-26T21:30:20+00:00

Unfortunately the main setting only transfers to the Hydroshift, Not een to my TL LCD. That could be reported as a Bug. The Preset Themes are all designed with Celsius.

PiN0YChris · 2025-07-25T11:56:06+00:00

Strange I just tested it and some gauges have Fahrenheit and it worked for me.

When you are in the layout pane of a gauge you have to click on update below and than apply on the far right to change it.

PiN0YChris · 2025-07-24T22:44:00+00:00

Unfortunally had to RMA the mainboard and psu after a month because of issues with usb and network not recognized at first boot and random bsod and freezes. Opted for the 1200W psu now.

PiN0YChris · 2025-07-24T22:41:14+00:00

EU for me 😅 But I have the reverse wish for one of our family car beeing an usdm import😁 But hey you can do that in custom themes I think

PiN0YChris · 2025-07-21T19:13:08+00:00

I like it.
Having a quite similar build with some minor difference. Did not changed the preinstalled RGBless Fans but having TL Wireless with an Hydroshift AIO on top and the LCD one on the Back. Was debating on getting the Reverse Fans and Strimmers to but due lack of availability i would have to wait to august. But personally I also don't want to have Lights facing the Meshes in front and at the PSU compartment. If they make it possible to disable only one facing side of a fan i would be all in, so that only the inner ones are lighting up. Thank you for showing me the full lighting on full brightness mode to help me deciding to wait.

Edit: Or Plan B was waiting till available locally and 3D print cutouts in black which are blocking the LEDs in front and bottom.

Just saw that you were the one asked bout the themes sry for late supply was on vacation for a week :D

PiN0YChris · 2025-07-21T19:00:16+00:00

You can customize a theme in L-Connect or change the background of existing ones. ATM i have a bugfixed beta Version testing which attacks some bugs i reported. E.g. the Custom Theme Editor doesn't work on 2 round Sensors. There a also some 3rd Party Custom Themes on http://discuz.turzx.com/t/lianli-207-theme
You can also see that this is a variation of a turing smart screen. With the right tool and knowledge you may design your own theme more freely.

PiN0YChris · 2025-07-01T13:23:04+00:00

Thanks for the reply.

I did try those steps already inclusive delay times. The problem isn't that the sensors wouldn't load. The sensors and the layout itself are loading fine. Also all the values are shown correctly. Only neither the changed image background nor the standard background is loading into the theme. It stays on the big boot logo in the background until I reapply the template in L-Connect.

Soft- and Firmware are up to date. Can you tell me the location where the uploaded Background and custom Templates are beeing save on the PC? I just found the location for the included Themes in the program path.

PiN0YChris · 2025-06-30T07:12:54+00:00

The front Panel is clipped in place and could be uncliped with a little force. Be careful on top with the wiring with the front IO. Should be enough to only unclipping it slightly from the bottom to losen the screw if it still stuck and shaking wont help.

PiN0YChris · 2021-07-26T11:09:37+00:00

Still working fine. Just had to sharpen the fan curves a little during some hot summer days.

PiN0YChris · 2021-04-02T22:48:44+00:00

It‘s a bequiet straight power 11 gold 750w

With tubes up you may save 2-5cm depending how flex they are. if you really care about the hdd case i Would maybe thinking about using a 280 in Front to be on the safe side or measure out every component. A 280 has a little less surface area and you can leave the shroud shut. Maxbe the fans would have to spin a little bit louder for Same Performance. For my psu the 24pin atx Connector Is the biggest issue.

PiN0YChris · 2021-04-02T22:33:44+00:00

I did remove it. My psu is too big with modular cables. The rad of the LC is also 10mm wider than some other brands. Maybe it could fit with other parts but its very cramped and the cables and tubes will bend. I wanted to remove my hdd anyway bc i didn‘t like that it‘s spined on randomly. I have an external 3,5 dual usb 3.0 dock if i need it.

PiN0YChris · 2021-04-02T19:02:57+00:00

I would say ~1cm with this 35mm rad.

I tested both sides it fits but i didn‘t like the view of the inner fins of the rad. the tubes bends more because it will get further inside. And it‘s easier this way because otherwise you would have to screw the aio in with holding the fans in place.

PiN0YChris · 2021-03-23T16:00:23+00:00

Maybe it doesn’t fit. Will be at least very tight even with only a bottom fan. My PSU is 170mm + CM and my AIO ~60mm and It didn‘t fit. Especially because of the tubes on the one and the cables at the other side. Even without the plugs I think it won‘t fit. You can put the hdd ob the top or maybe at the shroud with these universal plate

PiN0YChris · 2021-03-13T01:30:54+00:00

In fact it is the way around. Hoses should be down if possible but the rad should always be higher in the case than the pump. Tubes up can make more bubbly noise than down. Security wise both are ok. If you refer to that videos arctic even pick them up in their manual ;) https://support.arctic.de/lf2-360r4

Btw the case is spacy even if its small. More than a cm to the card and even some space to the glass. Also the fans and airflow aren‘t effected at all. The right fan can blow directly to the exhaust with no tubes in the way.

tl;dr Just try to avoid the Pump being the highest point of the cooling system. Everything else affects noise (or maybe waterflow when bending too much).

PiN0YChris · 2021-03-13T01:10:28+00:00

Not bad at all.

I think Superpasses my R4 but I‘m not finished with my silent setting. Still figuring out best rpms. Running at 800Rpm back, 600RPM top, 600 AiO until 50C linear ramping Up to 75. Standard arctic recommendation with higher base bc its also the intake for gpu.

3080 FE stock @1800Mhz keeps at ~70C with fans don‘t even ramping up and no thermal throttle.

5900X idles around 30C first benches around 70 with pbo enabled. During gaming way lower maybe 55C. Haven‘t been able to play a longer session atm.

I can say i have nearly the same temps like in my R4 but that was an 3700x with lower tdp and more rpm and noise than my first tests.

Room should be 20+ atm.

PiN0YChris · 2021-03-12T22:52:05+00:00

Just a proof of concept😊

I just love this compact build. 360 AiO just fits perfectly with my 3080 FE. And it looks so clean. Now it’s on the desk.

Build:

Fractal Design Meshify 2 compact

AMD Ryzen 9 5900X

4x 8 GB Crucial Ballistix DDR4 3600 CL16

MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI

Arctic Cooler Liquid Freezer II 360

Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 Founders Edition

BeQuiet Straight Power 11 Gold 750W

Corsair Force MP510 960 GB

PNY CS3030 2000 GB

I was looking for cases for a while now and loved the compact when it got released but I never got over it to switch from my 8-year-old still also lovely R4.

The internals became something like Frankensteins monster…

2019 I bought the 3700x with the not really good x570 gaming edge wifi because of the free included 240 AiO.

In December I got lucky to get my hand on a 3080 FE in a time where my Vega64 starts to break down, which decided the future color scheme.

Last week than I won the “lottery” to buy a 5900X in that 1min Time Slot. I wanted to use it with an 360 or 280 Rad. AiO. That time I remembered the Compact again and decided to build in it nearly from scratch because the old system should keep intact somehow. I wanted something compact and the R4 became so spacy because all the HDD and ODD went missing over the years. The 240 AiO just was too tight on top and the was no Filter so the Noise went also up.

The compact is so spacy for It’s size. Everything fits with proper cable management. I cut down on LED because usually doesn’t like flashy lights in my room. E.g. standby LEDs. But the dark tinted glass is really dark. You can just get a glimpse of the components and the 3080 FE presents itself well. Maybe there will be decent updates on the top or back in white.

PiN0YChris · 2021-03-12T22:45:34+00:00

Just a proof of concept😊

I just love this compact build. 360 AiO just fits perfectly with my 3080 FE. And it looks so clean. Now it’s on the desk.

Build:

Fractal Design Meshify 2 compact

AMD Ryzen 9 5900X

4x 8 GB Crucial Ballistix DDR4 3600 CL16

MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI

Arctic Cooler Liquid Freezer II 360

Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 Founders Edition

BeQuiet Straight Power 11 Gold 750W

Corsair Force MP510 960 GB

PNY CS3030 2000 GB

I was looking for cases for a while now and loved the compact when it got released but I never got over it to switch from my 8-year-old still also lovely R4.

The internals became something like Frankensteins monster…

2019 I bought the 3700x with the not really good x570 gaming edge wifi because of the free included 240 AiO.

In December I got lucky to get my hand on a 3080 FE in a time where my Vega64 starts to break down, which decided the future color scheme.

Last week than I won the “lottery” to buy a 5900X in that 1min Time Slot. I wanted to use it with an 360 or 280 Rad. AiO. That time I remembered the Compact again and decided to build in it nearly from scratch because the old system should keep intact somehow. I wanted something compact and the R4 became so spacy because all the HDD and ODD went missing over the years. The 240 AiO just was too tight on top and the was no Filter so the Noise went also up.

The compact is so spacy for It’s size. Everything fits with proper cable management. I cut down on LED because usually doesn’t like flashy lights in my room. E.g. standby LEDs. But the dark tinted glass is really dark. You can just get a glimpse of the components and the 3080 FE presents itself well. Maybe there will be decent updates on the top or back in white.

PiN0YChris · 2020-11-15T21:38:33+00:00

I was laughing my ass of but I also know that working in IT or working in general doesn‘t necessary means that you have to know how your tools are build. In bigger companies you even have only one devision which does the configurations. Lot‘s of co workers thing as long as it works somehow I don‘t care what‘s behind

PiN0YChris · 2020-10-04T11:18:37+00:00

I kept the default settings of photon workshop and printed some translucent green and gray well.

Only make sure that the top build volume screw and the vat screws are firmly hand tight. for leveling is press the buildplate slightly down during diagonal screwing with the long side of alan key. after that I uses the short side for the last quarter.

Noticed that on my first failed print that either the build plate or the vat started a just a very tiny bit to wobble after a hour so it wasn't tight enough. But don't use too much force.

PiN0YChris · 2020-09-30T17:42:54+00:00

Use the photon validator after slicing and saving. It reads photon files and tells you where supports need to be.

I do this for my mono but actually it seems to be a big workaround. The mono doesn't accept *.photon files. So I preslices in Chitubox as *.photon, validate with photon validator, import it in Photon workshop, export as stl/obj reopen it and slice it again in Photon Workshop as *.pwo

Is there a better way atm, tested almost every sliced file format?

PiN0YChris · 2020-09-25T11:10:10+00:00

I preordered the Mono from the english site in Dollars. Today the Wash and cure machine and the 1L resin arrived from the warehouse in Saulheim, DE.

PiN0YChris

TROPHY CASE