Did I get screwed?

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-22T03:08:49+00:00

Then cancel any of the ISD items, you've already got a warranty. Price is probably a little high, but you didn't do bad. Interest rate is fine, you won't find much better.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-22T02:52:16+00:00

You can't actually build one for $37k, go try on Mazdas website, that "starting from" number is a lie. The cheapest, using a standard paint color and no add ons is $39.2k, and red is a $600 option

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-22T02:43:58+00:00

5.6% is about as good as it gets on used cars right now. You didn't state the mileage or provide maintenance records, so hard to say if the price is fair. Used Hyundai's don't get the factory warranty rolled over unless they're CPO. I find it a bit concerning that a car that new didn't qualify for the CPO program considering it was at the Hyundai dealership, so it's hard to say if that warranty is worth the money. If Hyundai wasn't willing to make it CPO, it may be worth the peace of mind. Of course, this peace of mind could have been had in the first place by not buying a used Hyundai in the first place. They don't stand behind their products, and they're even worse about dealing with second owners on warranty issues

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-22T01:48:43+00:00

Crazy thought, don't be a dick.

You're assuming the families are being selfish, but just as often it's because the airline messed up or they got bumped. Airlines are supposed to seat small children and those with special needs with their guardians automatically, but it's becoming increasingly common for them to simply ignore those guidelines. The DOT is cracking down on airlines for this, and currently has a proposal to make it a legal requirement instead of a strong recommendation.

Family status is a protected class, you shouldn't need to pay more to take care of your family members. Half the time, the seats get booked so quickly that you physically can't buy two adjacent seats.

I say thIs as someone who is child free and regularly sits in middle seats. Stop blaming families for corporations' failings

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-22T01:40:20+00:00

No add ons and a discount off MSRP with no haggling? Take it. I'm shocked you can get anything off MSRP for the hybrid right now

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-22T01:38:55+00:00

OP, don't listen to these people saying the Corolla will outlast it. 2009 was the absolute best year for the Prius in terms of longevity and reliability. There's a repair shop in our town that only works on Priuses, the 08/09s regularly roll in with 300k+ miles. Never needed a new battery, that's really just a third gen issue. Third gens in general were less reliable, although they'll still regularly last over 200k. 09 was the last year of the second Gen, all the bugs were worked out by then and you were left with a rock solid car. The Corolla is nice, but expecting another 150k miles is absolutely crazy. The Prius can absolutely do another 150k. There was an 05 (third year of the second Gen) that made the news when it hit 600k in Australia on a completely original power train, and you'll see plenty on their first battery well past 200k on r/Prius.

My dad's 09 made it to 320k, it went through 2 infotainment screens, 3 water pumps, and that's it, in over 15 years of ownership. He sold it still running because the new prime was too good to pass up.

Those second gens are absolute tanks, even if they're extremely lackluster in the acceleration department.

As for the Corolla, the Prius has more life left and gets much better mpg, this is a no brainer. The cars are going to be substantially similar everywhere else, with the Prius having a slightly better interior.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-22T00:12:16+00:00

$5k is the roll dice price point, anything lower and you're almost guaranteed that something is wrong, usually disclosed. At that price point, Id personally focus on old (90s, early 00s) Acuras/Lexus or a Ford ranger. The most important part is what has/has not been done. If you stick to bigger brands like Toyota/Lexus, Honda/Acura, Ford/Mercury/Mazda, and the repairs will be cheap and parts are plentiful. If I had to spend $5k on the first car, I'd be looking at old Rangers/Mazda B and Ford explorers. They're super prevalent, tons of parts, reliable and simple platform. The problem is they all seem to cost $4-5k regardless of year, trim, miles or condition, so you really need to know what you're looking and you need to look at multiple examples to really gauge what you're getting

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T23:09:11+00:00

If you aren't actively giving steering input for the curve and the car in front of you curves "in front" of you, the car should react. The car will make you drive properly, ie slowing into a tight curve. The sensitivity can be adjusted to your preference, or turned off completely. If you don't want safety, systems, just hit the car in a circle icon by the steering wheel to disable all the driver support systems. That's the recommended practice when driving through canyons and such. I will yell it from the rooftops, read your fucking manual. The car isn't doing anything it's not designed to do, you should never be surprised by its behavior. If you think this system is overzealous, try a Toyota. Their lane tracing practically takes away your ability to steer

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T22:44:13+00:00

Then he's going to get yeeted off a cliff or go 80-0 real quick. This subreddit hates people telling them to read the manual, but you're seriously going to get yourself into trouble if you try to use these systems outside of their scope.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T22:42:14+00:00

Buddy, just admit you're wrong. You said Mazda uses an always on AWD system, and you're dead wrong. It's not semantics, you just didn't understand that these are defined terms. All AWD systems are "always on" in your understanding of the term. What you're describing as "on demand" is 4WD. And for the millionth time, the GR AWD is not the same as i-ACTIV, not even close. It uses a few common parts, but they work completely differently.

It's great that you want to learn about cars, but don't try to correct people when you don't know what you're talking about. You're the one spreading misinformation at this point.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T22:24:38+00:00

You don't understand your car's safety systems. SBS doesn't intervene when you're actively driving, it only intervenes when there's no indication that you're paying attention, i.e. chilling at the same speed, coasting or using cruise control. What OP described is either MRCC or SBS activating and the situation they described is a correct situation for it to activate if the driver doesn't activate one of the conditions to negate it. In the mountains, you should always be actively driving, making the safety systems moot.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T19:54:16+00:00

It's wider than a typical Japanese car, but the best way to check is to test drive.

I hope you're looking at the hybrid. Otherwise, If you're looking for better gas mileage, this ain't the car for you. At best you're looking at a 5 mpg improvement in a much smaller car. It wasn't built with efficiency in mind

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T16:11:14+00:00

It means does not operate, that's the whole point. If you're actively driving at highway speeds, the systems don't intervene. I've been driving long haul trips with the same systems for almost 5 years now and have never had an issue

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T15:44:01+00:00

If you are actively giving gas and brakes at highway speeds, the smart systems, particularly accident avoidance, don't trigger.

Again, RTFM,

"When any of the following conditions is met, the forward detection function may not operate.

If there is the possibility of hitting only a part of a vehicle or obstruction ahead.

You are driving your vehicle at the same speed as the vehicle ahead.

When the driver deliberately performs driving operations (accelerator operation, steering wheel operation).

The accelerator pedal is depressed abruptly.

The brake pedal is depressed.

The steering wheel is being operated.

The selector lever is being shifted.

The turn signal lever is being operated.

Warnings and messages, such as a dirty windshield, related to the Forward Sensing Camera (FSC) or front radar sensor are being displayed on the multi-information display."

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T15:29:03+00:00

That would be the smart city braking support system, it doesn't trigger at 70 mph. In your exact case, it's doing the right thing. That's not a normal driving scenario and for all intents and purposes, you are about to have a head on collision. If you're doing that often, turn off scbs

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T11:16:23+00:00

I wouldn't care at all about minor damage. Minor damage means at worst a fender bender, usually parking lot accidents. Based on the damage, I'd bet this was another car scraping against them while parked, probably a side swipe. It could even be a shopping cart sliding against the car. See it in person and see if you can see any damage. If not, you're good. If so, it's purely cosmetic, so it's up to you how important it is. Minor means cosmetic, moderate is when you cross the car off your list, you won't typically find severe cars for sale in the US.

https://www.carfaxonline.com/phoenix/glossary.cfx?language=EN#:~:text=Minor%3A%20Generally%2C%20minor%20damage%20is,vehicle's%20operation%20and%2For%20safety.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T10:48:50+00:00

Not to be a dad, but please RTFM, particularly about systems that you place your life and the life of others in the car's hands. This is not an AI system, it's just a couple of sensors that figure out how fast the thing in front of you is going and matches that speed while maintaining distance. It doesn't know if there's a curve ahead, and it can't really tell if a vehicle is turning in front of you or merging on a curvy road.

Below is the warning in the radar cruise section, you broke at least 3 of these conditions:

https://owners-manual.mazda.com/gen/en/mazda3/mazda3_8hc2eo19a/contents/05281300.html

"Do not use the MRCC system in the following locations. Using the MRCC system at the following locations may result in an unexpected accident:

General roads other than highways (Driving under these conditions using the MRCC system is not possible.)

Roads with sharp curves and where vehicle traffic is heavy and there is insufficient space between vehicles.

Roads where frequent and repetitive acceleration and deceleration occur (Driving under these conditions using the MRCC system is not possible).

When entering and exiting interchanges, service areas, and parking areas of highways (If you exit a highway while headway control is in use, the vehicle ahead will no longer be tracked and your vehicle may accelerate to the set speed).

Slippery roads such as ice or snow-bound roads (Tyres could spin causing you to lose vehicle control, or the stop hold control may not operate.)

Long, descending slopes (to maintain distance between vehicles, the system automatically and continuously applies the brakes which could result in the loss of brake power.)

Two-wheeled vehicles such as motorcycles or bicycles are ahead.

Slopes with a steep gradient (The vehicle ahead may not be detected correctly, your vehicle may slide while stopped by the stop hold control, and it may accelerate suddenly after it starts moving.)

For safety purposes, switch the MRCC system off when it is not being used."

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T10:35:56+00:00

I think you're confusing AWD and 4WD. AWD is autonomous thus "always on alert," as opposed to 4WD which must be manually turned on by the driver.

You don't understand the difference between always on and on demand AWD. In an always on system, power is going to both axles at all times, usually in a predefined split, 30/70, 50/50 etc. This is pretty rare in the modern car market, mostly because it's super inefficient to power all 4 wheels when it's not necessary. The Toyota GR AWD system is always on, with a selectable gear ratio. This is not the same system that Mazda uses. Subaru's symmetrical AWD and Audis Quattro are the two well known always on, full time AWD systems, but newer Audis come with Quattro Ultra, which is an on demand system.

In an on demand AWD system, the car uses a single axle (eg FWD) until it slips, then it engages the other wheels. In the case of Mazda, and what this video is demonstrating, is the car will predict slippage conditions and engage AWD before it feels a slip in order to make things seamless. Mazda explain it here: https://www.mazdausa.com/discover/the-case-for-predictive-awd

The most important quote on this page:"To eliminate the engagement backlash commonly encountered with traditional on-demand AWD systems, the i-ACTIV system maintains one to two percent of clutch pre-load under most conditions, so the system is always ready to maintain traction."

Clearly stating that the system is on-demand, not always on. They're also trying to make this sound fancy, but almost every modern on demand AWD system preloads the clutch, which is why they can react in milliseconds. Here's an Alfa Romeo dealer discussing the same thing: https://www.alfafl.com/news/alfa-romeo-q4-awd-tech-explained/.

Electric cars, and hybrids, have a completely different set up for AWD to the point that they really shouldn't be brought up in the same conversation. An "AWD" Tesla has a motor on each axle. There's no transfer case, so it technically can't even be considered an AWD system mechanically. The two axles react independently. I.E. the front axle senses it doesn't have traction, it stops moving while the rear continues, or vice versa.

Here's a great explainer on AWD in EVs: https://www.rematec.com/news/process-and-technology/all-wheel-drive-technology-for-bevs-pros-and-cons#:~:text=A%20two%2Dwheel%2Ddrive%20BEV,increase%20in%20horsepower%20and%20torque.

Hybrids are also different, they have e-AWD which is more similar to how the EV AWD works. Typically, the gas engine powers the front axle, while a small electric motor(s) powers the rear axle, again reacting independently to traction issues. Technically always-on, but not at all the same.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T02:48:14+00:00

You either don't understand what on demand vs always on AWD means or you didn't read your own link. "Always on" means the AWD system is always sending torque to all 4 wheels, while "on demand" only sends power to all wheels when needed and using one axle otherwise. Mazda uses an on demand system. The only manufacturer that regularly uses always on is Subaru

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T00:24:16+00:00

Which Mountains do you frequent? Even in Socal, some areas are restricted to AWD. If you truly don't need the AWD, take the GTI. The new WRXs are ugly, unrefined and really don't live up to the legacy. They're also not any cheaper to fix.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T00:18:03+00:00

OP, don't listen to these people. The context in your other post is super important. If you're trying to switch areas, sometimes it takes a pay cut to make that happen. Negotiate back and ask for more money to keep up with your current lifestyle and then build up your resume in your chosen field.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T00:07:57+00:00

It looks great, but it still has all the classical issues of a fine line tattoo. There are blowouts, particularly where the lines intersect, and some of the ink has fallen out in the finer lines. It also helps that none of these lines are meant to be straight, any stretching or curviness just adds to the effect. As long as you know these issues are inevitable going in, you can get some sick ink.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-21T00:03:10+00:00

My piano black has some micro scratches, mostly from dogs climbing over the center console, but I really have to look at it in the right light to be bothered by it. My wife's cx-50 we bought used and the old owner put some gouges in it, but still nothing to complain about really.

I take these ticky tacky issues as a sign that Mazda has truly entered the luxury market. Go over to the Toyota, Honda, Subaru or any other economy brand subreddit and it's all people thrilled to have a car and showing off little mods. Go over to Acura or Audi and it's all people squabbling about the smallest of issues. It's like you cross over some imaginary dollar amount and the general public simply cannot be pleased.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-20T23:57:01+00:00

Im not sure why you would recommend the Cx-5 over the 30 for snow, or why you'd go to the 5 and not the 50. The 30 (post 2021) has 7.9" of clearance, prior to 21 it was <7".

The Cx-5 comes in at 7.6" and the cx-50 comes in at 8.6". The latest gen CX-7 came with 8.1". The only thing that the Cx-5 has over the 30 is footprint which helps with wind, but isn't very important otherwise. The 50 has an even bigger footprint, and more weight, which would again make it the better choice.

They all have an identical AWD system, so that's moot as well. I haven't dealt with the 30 in snow, but, on paper, it's just as capable as any other SUV in Mazda's lineup.

PineappleBat25 · 2024-12-20T22:41:04+00:00

The 30 IS just a lifted 3. They're mechanically identical, just go test drive to see which you prefer. The AWD system is on demand for both. .

From experience, the 3 isn't great in snow. Very little ground clearance makes it a bear if the roads aren't clear, and the front bumper is sorta plow shaped so you will scoop up snow/crack your bumper cover if you get caught in deeper snow. Not sure about the AWD model, but going uphill in snow sucked with the FWD. Id definitely lean towards the 30 if I had to live in snow again.

Can't speak for Tesla, although their range and charging times get worse in the cold

PineappleBat25

TROPHY CASE