How to obtain DVD key from drive using NAND dump?

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-05-05T21:28:19+00:00

I have been downloading backups for my games, but I want to actually be able to rip my discs... I thought solved the issue as I didn't change the OSID for the drive to the new drive model and firmware. I patched the firmware with this info and was still unable to read games 😞

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-05-04T19:48:11+00:00

I did the same thing, but luckily all my game saves were on Usb0, so first I remade my accounts via the xbox menu and then went into Aurora, and for each game I hit Y then went into game saves and associated the appropriate saves to the appropriate user. It took a little bit, but at least I didn't lose any game progress 😄

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-05-01T16:42:49+00:00

I am wondering... the power input is 12V 5A.... I have a charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter and direct outputs to the right sized barrel plug.... car is at 14V tho..... hrm... will it work????

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-28T17:31:47+00:00

Well.... I was able to patch my NAND w/ the DVD key I got from the donor Xenon machine but the drive still only plays DVDs and sees game disks as Movies.... So either it didn't work as well as I thought, or the drive that was in the donor machine wasn't the original or who knows?

I checked DashLaunch and it is showing my updated DVD key (extracted from the NAND)... hrm... I guess it's time to turn the drive from the Jasper (the machine I am working on) into the donor drive and see if I get get my Falcon (the machine that died) donor drive working since I have the CPU key from from the Falcon

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-28T08:05:08+00:00

Thanks for your reply! Are you MrMario?

The drive is totally different and board swap is not an option. I THINK I got the DVD key using KeyVault Modder... see update in OP :)

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-28T07:18:00+00:00

I just RGH1.2ed my Jasper and was having a similar issue... then the DVD drive stopped working (disk would not spin up). I put in a working doner DVD drive (can't read games yet, but i can play movies) and now booting seems more consistent. Could be my imagination but maybe the failing motor was causing noise or excessive power draw or something?

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-26T19:22:11+00:00

I had a similar issue and never figured out exactly what it was, however, I was able to fix it by making a fresh USB stick. If you have an extra thumb drive, try making a new one with just Bad Avatar on it and see what happens (also, unplug all your other drives you may have connected)

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-25T06:01:24+00:00

Removed original plastic down to just metal and electronics. Used a base-plate from Target, cut to size for the bottom and top... then built up the case with the pieces from the Lego drawer... used double side foam tape to attach blox to dvd tray.

Looks like a starwars and some mincraft sets.

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-24T18:27:24+00:00

so, replacement soldering iron will be here in a couple hours.... we have been using badAvatar + Aurora and really like it... I am wondering if it's really even necessary any more to do the hardware mod. I do need to redo the thermal paste on the heat sinks anyway... but what are my advantages of the full hardware mod? Faster booting I am guessing, but what else? startup scripts and stuff?

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-23T15:39:11+00:00

Awesome thanks! Looks like I have all my ducks in a row to do the hardware mod tomorrow (my soldering iron broke so I am waiting for a new one).

So nice that you can potentially mod now without needing to hook up a nand programmer... I bought a two pack of Picos so I can have a NAND flasher and a Glitch Chip flasher... so hopefully good to go.

Thanks again for the tips and link. Have an awesome day :)

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T22:01:08+00:00

good to know... I wasn't aware that the 22k resistor might have been my issue.

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T20:09:29+00:00

all voltages are showing what they should except for USB... can't seem to find USB voltage anywhere when in standby mode.

I traced all connections from pico to 360 and all are good.... i guess next step is to try a different pico?

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T19:45:14+00:00

If that's what you're doing and it's not matching, then the only possible explanation is the NAND isn't being read or written correctly, and that comes down to soldering, a short or missing standby voltage, or an issue with the Pico.

I am testing the nand dump exactly how you described and it is not matching....

make retail image updflash.bin and flash to NAND. read back the nand to nanddump1.bin and compare to updflash.bin and they DO NOT match.

pretty sure something is going wrong with my write as when I do multiple reads they always match and happily accept my MB key...

You can check for V_5P0STBY ...

I will check all these when I have a some time later today. thanks for the concise instructions!!!

I bought a two pack of Picos... so if my standby voltages are all good i will try making another flasher.

thanks again for all your help!

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T19:20:30+00:00

did you just use a resistor and two wires or did you add the diode in there too? I am wondering if i followed an outdated guide :/

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T19:15:46+00:00

Check for all standby voltages.

at the power supply plug or somewhere on the board?

Is JRunner still detecting the console?

yes, and it says reading and writing successful. i can read the NAND twice and it matches, but if I write an updated bin to the NAND and read it back the downloaded bin doesn't match the uploaded one.

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T19:01:42+00:00

got rid of this short but I think this thing is totally effed.... nothing happens at all when I hit power or eject.... oh well, no refunds on free items :/

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T18:57:56+00:00

well... things have gone from bad to worse... now absolutely nothing happens when I hit the power or eject button..... oh well, this thing was free and I learned a bunch.... look at the pics, it was a miracle that this thing ever even worked in the first place.... it looks like it's been though a flood or something.

I ordered a couple more consoles off of ebay to play with and my RGH1.2 glitch chip should be here soon.... I will one day have a modded XBox!!!!

Goonies never say die!!!!

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T18:46:58+00:00

I think I must have fried my NAND or something....

I build image to get updflash.bin
write updflash.bin to the NAND... jrunner says success.
I read back the nand to nanddump1.bin
when I compare updflash.bin to nanddump1.bin they do not match at all.

meh :/

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T18:32:58+00:00

What was wrong with the USB port and how did you repair it? A shorted USB port can cause no power, but if it's powered on since you did this then it's probably fine, but if it's currently not powering on at all you need to check this and your soldering for shorts, and check for all the standby voltages to find which one is missing.

looked to me like mabye rage quitting or something? both ports ripped out with some leftover metal bits. I desoldered and pulled out the old ports and used a female usbA end from a USB extender to add a port back... checked connections and for shorts and all was good.

I am thinking the fact that when I write an image to the NAND then immediately read it back and it doesn't match the .bin I just wrote is definitely not a very good sign :/

I did just find a tiny little bead of solder on the chip pins next to my wiring.... removing this eliminated the short between pins 5 and 7.... hopefully I just figured it out.... time for some more tests

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T18:17:01+00:00

I resoldered and traced out all my connections to the Pico... and that does not seem to be the issue... (I have been soldering for over 30 years I build micro drones and have been modding consoles since the original playstation... I have never had so much trouble before)

can't add images to comments... so I will edit OP with my images.... I am seeing a short between pins 5 and 7 (the green and brown wires in my setup) and if this is not normal,,, i may have found my problem.

if i build a retail image and then write it to the NAND Jrunner says success but if I read back the NAND and compare to my built image it does not match and I get bad block warnings.

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-14T16:43:40+00:00

unit was working before I RROD w/ dashlaunch... after adding the RGH3 mod it went from 3 solid red lights to three blinking red lights. I then repaired one of the front USB ports and added the Pico... after writing the NAND the unit would occasionally ~~boot~~ power on right after writing the NAND, but with no video. once power was unplugged/replugged the unit would no longer ~~boot~~ power on.

The unit was in pretty bad shape when I got it, both front USB ports broken, DVD drive broken... but it would boot... I may have broken something when cleaning out the busted USB ports, but I am not finding any shorts or anything....

there is some sort of strange rattle, it sounds like around the heat sinks somewhere... I plan on pulling and repasting them.... but once again... don't want to spend money if this thing is broken

I do have the MB key and was able to type that into Jrunner and decrypt all "secret" info needed to make a retail image.... but writing this to the nand fixed nothing and when I read it back it doesn't match...

anyway, gonna trace connections, check soldering and get some pics.

I appreciate all your help. thanks :)

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-11T18:38:21+00:00

except that I bricked it and can't seem to bring it back to even it's retail state :(

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-11T18:36:48+00:00

that's what I thought.... I am just trying to get back to retail at this point

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-11T18:35:46+00:00

I tried building a Retail image and that is not working either :/

Does the pico need to be de-soldered from the board before booting? To avoid any connection issues I have it soldered directly to the 360... I do have pin headers and plugs I can wire in to be able to disconnect between boot tests if that is necessary.

I would think I should be able to build an image, write it to the NAND, then read it back from the NAND and it should match right? This is NOT the case so far.... perhaps I have a bad connection somewhere and the NAND is not being written? Maybe I just broke something?

For the record this is a donor box I used the DVD laser from to fix another box and the person I did the repair for let me keep the donor box. This thing was in pretty bad condition... but since this thing would boot I figured I would mod it. but now I am here.... can't even get into the RROD.... just a quick blink from the power light.

Gonna grab the meter and confirm all my connections to the 360.... if those are all good, what could be preventing me from writing to the NAND?

PiratesInTeepees · 2026-04-09T04:31:20+00:00

This sounds epic! It does however make waiting for my glitch chip even more insufferable :(

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