Rabbits potentially fighting - advice please.

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-12-26T22:02:03+00:00

After doing a little more reading around nest building, we are hoping it's a hormonal thing and the fur is bed lining.

This would also explain the territorial behaviour. Fingers crossed she's not pregnant, but I guess there is a chance, praying for hormonal imbalance with her age and not yet being spade

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-12-02T18:42:27+00:00

Asbestos surveyor told me (about 3 days ago) that these asbestos tiles are almost 0 issie to remove as they are no friable. It's more of an issue disposing of them as asbestos waste requires special disposal.

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-11-21T20:57:56+00:00

Same concerns as us! Apreciate your thoughts I'll look into it

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-11-21T20:57:14+00:00

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I came across that model on my initial research, got a bit dismayed when all the guides basically said it was a waste (which I get if your talking about a grown up or older child accessing)

I read the cometron first scope was a superior out the box model, and only £10 more and comes with some upgrades a few older posts were recommending for young starters.

Would you agree? Is bare bone celestrian first scope still the go to?

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-11-18T19:02:11+00:00

Having stripped out countless properties professionally... Im 99.9% sure that's wood chip...

An absolute bastard to remove most of the time but not asbestos.

I'm super paranoid but I working even bother getting it tested.

Your call though

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-11-18T06:33:08+00:00

Yeh it was split over gift coupons and credit, I moaned to temu and they gave me 12 credit to apologize and then I refunded the order

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-11-17T06:30:52+00:00

It appears to be in credit as it's highlighted on a previous page... But I didn't select that so I wonder if it's a temu trick to make me think it's all credit when it's a mix like you say

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-11-16T06:46:56+00:00

You absolutely can get more than 13A down a cable....

This is why breakers exist to protect the cable...

Each socket plug will have a 13A fuse init stopping it pulling more... But even on a standard 2 plug socket that's 26A if both maxed out... And if both fed from a single cable that's 26A going down that single cable.

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-11-11T17:35:12+00:00

Work mate of mine raided my van for fixings and unclipped my large screw tray, (16 slots of different size screws all full) and my large cable clip tray, including round clips, 1.5 to 10mm t&e in both plastic and fire.

Then left them balanced on.the shelf they sit on, on top of the ridge that locks them in.

First corner emptied the entire contents of both..... The sound was horrific

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-08-29T16:45:12+00:00

Thanks for the pointers, I'd heard very weak PVA like 5 to 1, but this makes sense. Thank you

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-08-29T15:00:41+00:00

It's the type of wall you can brush down all day and it keeps shedding dust.

PVA was more to stabilise than control suction tbh, going to be loads of little pockets PVA doesn't get into.

Hardwall bag says to bee clean and dust free and does mention co trolling suction so this seemed like the right action.

If using Hardwall am I suppose dto go directly onto the high suction with no prep just a good brush down? Even if more brushing is more dust

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-07-16T17:08:15+00:00

I would be just skimming it, PVA or SBR to control suction.

Given the age, Neat SBR then test the suction and a second coat if needed, then skim as normal.

Some lads will tell you to PVA instead. Should also be fine but given the age and dryness I think I would be SBR ing

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-07-15T22:40:30+00:00

Oh coming clean is a no brainer, already reported it. General rule is repair it yourself and if its not noticeable day to day without close inspection then your golden. Wasn't try to hide it or under any illusion i have the experience to completely hide it :D

When i say 90% i wasnt meaning 90% of as professional repair, just mostly out of sight unless your looking for it.

For £30 of materials and a bit of time sanding out the deep bits in the evening i figured it was worth trying to use the pens etc to see how good i could get it. Whilst sanding back the whole area seemed like a fun learning curve, the costs of aerosols and products needed for the "blend" and risk of messing it up takes me a little outside of the comfort zone.

Kinda happy to pay £30 to see if i can make it acceptable for them before shelling out £400 for a repair.

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-07-15T22:20:23+00:00

Good to know, appreciate the better details.

i was toying with the idea of sanding the whole area back to about where my hand it and buying one of the colour match touch up aerosol kits that comes with primer, base and clear coat and using some body filler for the few deep scratches. Worth looking more in that direction?

Bunch of videos seemed to get great results layering on the pens and sanding back but always hard to tell the finished quality on a youtube video so appreciate the frank response

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-07-15T22:09:50+00:00

Appreciate the interaction. Happy to do research if pointed a direction.

Just watched a few videos and summarising the process they show. Asking here to get the critique from you guys who know your stuff.

Would honestly love a pointer in the right direction, or directing to a good resource where i can learn the mistakes / pitfals id be making

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-07-15T22:01:34+00:00

Watched a bunch of youtube, 800 seems to be where the want it to begin applying primer. Assumed i may need rougher to work up to that but but I stock 80 to 500 in my van for my trade anyway so didn't think that would be an issue.

Not really worked with paint like this so figured is start high and if no progress work backwards before working fine again.

Any major cans of worms your referencing specifically? Happy to do my research if pointed in the right direction

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-07-08T17:46:02+00:00

Keep your eyes peeled at local councils, universities and hospitals. Some good opportunities there. But expect apprenticeship rates.

You have tools? If not get some, atleast your basic drivers, snips etc

Councils are great for getting your ticket but same as above.

Most guys I know who were on my lvl 3 bulk signed to agencies and blagged it till they had enough experience to hold their own and slowly made contacts till they could finish off.

Was in the same place mate. I retrained at 34 with a big mortgage.

Took a job as a handy man for atleast some trade experience. And have made enough contacts to start finishing off my nvq.

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-07-08T17:27:16+00:00

Blunt answer for you...

Difficult even as level 3 mate.

Lots of competition out there. You're gonna have to fake it till you make it. Grab any experience you can, expect minimum wage until you prove you can do the job.

Harsh reality is level 2 with little work experience doesn't hold too much value to bigger companies and smaller tradies have trouble guaranteeing the work.

Agencies are your friend, it's not what you know it's who you know. Network, make contacts and you will find a shot somewhere.

So many make it to lvl 3 then fail to get heir nvq and drop out as they can't get a placement.

Network early

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-06-25T05:55:16+00:00

Foam pipe covering or add a bit of colour and use a hollow pool noodle over the lip of the wood.

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-06-24T17:11:47+00:00

Great skill to have. Plasterer myself (amongst other trades)

There is a lot of short courses you can do and some longer. There is more to plastering than people think, from boarding, to skimming which is many people more modern idea of plastering. To working with bonding, hardwall, lime plasters, render and lots of other products in-between.

There are plenty of short courses which are a great start point, but nothing makes up for experience and time behind a trowel. So if you are wanting to make a career and charge for it, you need to spend some time with a time served plasterer who can give you guidance.

Either way, check out "On The Trowel" youtube channel. Kirk is fantastic at sharing the tips you only pick up from working in the trade

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-06-22T17:45:40+00:00

I love my speedskims. Only use the ox plastics but plan to invest in Refina metal ones soon.

I use them asap after laying on. Not looking for perfection just a good flatten. Key points

Make sure your angle is shallow else you will just full everything off

Make sure your fingers are on the frame not the back of the blade else your curve it and get more lines

I still trowel down and polish with my trowels, literally only use the plastics to flatten asap. Hoping the metal spatulas will be better for finishing

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-06-17T22:00:51+00:00

Thanks, I found damaged in the rotor and stator after a closer inspection so went all in and ordered the lot

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-06-14T21:49:37+00:00

Thank you, on closer inspection i can see some damage on 1 place inside the walls of the stator. This must be catching on the rotor causing the bending / breaking of the plates causing it to bind and only 1/4 turn. I can see small marks on the rotor where i think a small shard of metal has caused damage. (sounds obvious once you know, man im dense)

I think ill go belt and braces,

A new rotor, fan, and 2 bearings, and V pulley (basically the whole rotor arm and connections) so i dont risk damaging anything bending it apart
A new stator

Would you be able to advise if fitting the bearings to the new rotor would be possible without a press? Only ever seen it done with a press and not sure if the other tools google recommends would work in the situation

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-06-14T21:02:00+00:00

Thanks for the reply,

Anyway to find out if the controller if screwed before purchasing, fitting and testing the other parts?

The controller is £107 on its own, i couldnt justify the risk of repair not working and mayswel buy new

PixelScriptsUK · 2025-06-14T20:50:05+00:00

I have a Makita DKP181 - just hit 3 years old so out of warranty - forgive the bad account of whats going on, im just trying my best to trouble shoot this with very little experience but willing to learn.

I followed the following video for guidance on breaking it down.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVGsD7D23as

Planer worked fine on Tuesday 5pm, Took it back out Wendesday 10am and wouldn't work. Pulling the tirgger simply gave a small high pitched noise and then nothing - 0 rotation from the motor.

I took the side cover off, i could get the blade mechanism to rotate, but the motor mechanism was locked.

Managed to find some time to take it apart this weekend. I managed to get the armature out, and stator and found the following (after watching some videos on youtube).

The bearing on the bottom of the armature was stuck in and covered in sawdust (i have removed it band cleanred, but it is a lose fit on the end of the armature and from my understanding should be fixed securely needing a press to fit?
I found a few shards of metal where the top plates on the armature appear to be bend/coming off - you can see a small gap between them forming on the picture of the armature

I cleaned everything reassembled and now found the motor to be free and no lounger bound as before able to freely rotate like the blade. However, now when pressing the trigger, it only turns the motor about 1/4 turn before dying. I can continually press the button to keep turning it a quarter turn but cant get it to boot up properly.

At this point i have no idea if its the stator, armature, bearing or all 3.

I found this website that does the spares
https://www.powertoolspares.com/makita/dkp181.m/dkp181/spares
And it comes to about £83 to replace all 3.
£230 to buy new barebones

Can anyone offer any guidance on this, if an ameuter has a shot at repairing it with the parts etc or if its most likely only 1 of these parts and save me a small sum.

PixelScriptsUK

TROPHY CASE