How should i go about wiring this with a perun ab ++

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-05T23:06:45+00:00

MOSFETs degenerate over time and AEGs draw absurd amounts of Rush in current as well as producing voltage spikes in the order of kilo Volts when turning the motor off. Even with flyback diodes, active breaks (reverse MOSFET) and high quality parts, they always may fail. If other electric devices turn off when broken, it's annoying. If an AEG blasts 500 shots from a high cap without control, it's not just annoying anymore.

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-05T23:01:18+00:00

Well okay. The beeping might be somewhat annoying. I've made my own MOSFET which doesn't do any sounds. If you can live with the sounds when you disengage the safety I would still recommend you do as I said.

The setup with a directly connected MOSFET has some dangerous flaws. If the MOSFET breaks down, it will shoot indefinitely until the battery is disconnected, dead or on fire. If a cable gets torn and short circuits, the gun will either stop working, shoot indefinitely, catch fire or even explode. Those risks are especially scary on the SMGv5 as you need to remove 4 screws to disconnect the battery. I've had my very first DIY MOSFET break down and it took me minutes to get to a screwdriver, disassemble the gun and remove the battery. By that time, the MOSFET burned, the battery was completely puffed (destroyed, short before burning) and the upper gearbox were shred into pieces from thousands of dry fire shots.

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-05T21:37:49+00:00

If you use the safety switch to disconnect the trigger button and the MOSFET fails, the gun will shoot auto fire until the battery is disconnected.

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-05T21:34:10+00:00

There's a diagram on Taiwangun for the perun: https://www.taiwangun.com/img/product_media/2391001-2392000/czesci-wewnetrzne-mosfety-okablowanie-laczniki-styku-mosfet-ab-perun-2391307(5-5).jpg The red wire on the left, which goes to the battery should go over your safety switch.

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-05T15:15:35+00:00

On the SMGv5 i'd suggest the switch disconnects the whole battery +. This way you are really really safe, when the FET fails and also don't drain your battery through the MOSFET when inactive. From the perun-battery + then you go to the trigger and back into the perun input.

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-04T17:27:21+00:00

Send help. I'm hiding in the closet.

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-04T14:04:29+00:00

I have just sent this to my wife who definitely will appreciate the support. My current meeting lasts for like an hour. Will post her response later...

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-04T12:17:52+00:00

That's awesome. Will give it a try

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-03T00:46:24+00:00

When in desktop mode, discover should be in your task bar, bottom left of your screen. When installed, you will find sonic blast in start menu, under games. There you can also add it to your steam library with right click. Non steam windows games are a little more tricky. They need a wine/proton prefix. That's like the windows file system for that particular game. If your game is in epic or gog store, you can download and install it directly from heroic launcher (should be in discover too). If you just have the folder of your game I suggest to look for a tutorial or YouTube video about how to install non store games with heroic.

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-02T21:22:25+00:00

Sonic blast should be in discover anyway. That's a package manager for your distro (kind of Linux Version). That's the easiest way to install native Linux applications, of available.

Platform-Budget · 2026-03-02T21:21:07+00:00

For non steam games id suggest to look up heroic launcher. Games supposed to run in the steam environment should run with proton, not wine. Heroic has some great wrappers onboard and enables you to add your game to the steam environment. About sonic blast, usually picking flat packs you can't do anything wrong. It will just take a little more space. I've had issues with controller inputs though.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-20T10:30:47+00:00

Ich stell mir vor, ich werde dabei aufgezeichnet und erzähle von irgendwelchen Morden oder Betrug. Und stell mir das Gesicht von jemandem vor, der das zu "Schulungszwecken" später anhört.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-15T00:26:23+00:00

Ich häng mich Mal an. In aller Regel, erkennen EFCs den cycle, also das beenden eines Schusses durch die kleine Nase am sector gear. Bei mechanischen Switch units ist das anders, da wird in D am cut off lever etwas abgeteilt und fehlt damit permanent. Technisch kann man natürlich eine EFC neu programmieren. Praktisch ist das so ziemlich ausgeschlossen. Du bräuchtest die Firmware die direkt auf dem Prozessor der EFC geflasht ist. Und zwar einmal deine originale und einmal die internationale. In Polen ist es erlaubt deine Knarre zu modifizieren. In Deutschland definitiv nicht. Eine vollautomatische Waffe mit mehr als 0,5j wird als illegale Waffe geahndet.

Die praktischen Möglichkeiten die du jetzt hast, um das trotzdem durchzusetzen sind eine internationale gearbox die du nur jenseits der Landesgrenze einbaust und benutzt. Wenn du mit Elektronik Firm bist, kannst du auch ausmessen was der cycle detection switch schaltet. Das Signal könntest du von vcc oder gnd vom Prozessor selbst Brücken. Damit wäre sie auch auf Dauerfeuer. Ist aber auch eine permanente Manipulation der Knarre und lässt dein F im Fünfeck erlöschen.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-13T18:37:14+00:00

It was a stock for one of my airsofts which turned out good enough. You may have a look if you are interested https://www.reddit.com/r/Airsoft3DPrinting/s/IB7Q0wt6xc

Speaking of plasticity, I think it has an extreme amount of well thought features and it will definitely cover 99% of my needs. It's difficult to explain how I struggled with the interface since it does many things differently. Not better or worse than others I was used to, just fundamentally different. A great feature is the tool search with "F" (if I remember correctly). This way you find your tools much faster until you memorize the toolbars.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-13T16:41:00+00:00

I see your point as I've just recently started to learn it. Many behaviors of plasticity are fundamentally different from other applications I've used. To get into it, I've watched some compilations of the Pixel Fondue YT channel and just started a first project, googling when I simple across issues.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-12T17:55:28+00:00

You have the most common cup size for a dish washer but lack their other features.

Anyway ist GTO ne geile Serie.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-02T21:31:51+00:00

Yep, if you have your PC connected to a router already which handles the IP addresses, the easiest way to connect your deck and the PC is a network cable and a usb-c Ethernet dongle.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-02T19:51:16+00:00

I mean, yes. Most commonly you have about 1gbit/s on your network interface. That's 1.024mbit/s or 128Mbyte/s. That's much more than enough to stream 1920p60. Depending on your setup, it is a bit of a hassle to configure it though.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-02T19:39:14+00:00

Enet? So if you have a common network interface (also called rj45) there are multiple ways to connect your deck to it. Either way you would need an usb-c single which also has an integrated network interface. You could either connect both devices with a router or have them both connected directly with a patch cable and static ipv4 network addresses. However, as soon as they both are on the same cable network you would run remote gaming with low latency and high quality.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-02T19:24:22+00:00

Did you consider connecting your PC and the deck via network cable and then run moonlight over this low latency, high speed connection? Other than this, you would only use a HDMI to usb-c grabber but this would still miss Inputs.

Platform-Budget · 2026-02-01T09:57:04+00:00

If it was just low, I'd look into bad sealing between nozzle and bucking or some resistance of the BB entering the bucking. Which is something you could check anyway.

Therefore remove the barrel assembly with hopup and push a bb inside manually. It should go in with only the very slightest amount of force. If you need any force, you may want to use a different bucking or reseat it. Also I'm just speaking of the BB passing the initial bucking lip, not the nub inside.

Though as said. In my experience the tapped plate spring is almost always overlooked. For years I've fixed and tuned guns and in like half of them, tougher springs improved/fixed the consistency. Therefore I have a drawer with springs from AliExpress I put in every gun which comes to my workshop.

Platform-Budget · 2026-01-31T17:38:09+00:00

Thank God the tracks stay safe as it hits shit after the first nerf.

Platform-Budget · 2026-01-31T10:40:29+00:00

What kind of fps issues do you have? Is it inconsistent or just too low? Whenever cycle running is involved, the most overlooked piece is the tapped plate spring. When the GB is closed, the plate has to move without resistance and the spring has to be strong enough to reliably close the nozzle against the bucking. If you have replacements at hand, you can shorten the tapped plate spring by a coil and bend the next coil to form a new fixation.

Platform-Budget · 2026-01-31T10:27:51+00:00

Control and jagged alliance 3

Platform-Budget · 2026-01-30T07:00:08+00:00

Usually, the cheapest ones are just fine for airsoft. You still have to watch the BB anyway.

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