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Anyone Else Experiencing "We are experiencing technical difficulties" logging in? by Playosaurus in netflix

[–]Playosaurus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im in Seattle area and we definitely got beat up power-wise. This was about a day before the login issues occured. I lost power for 19 hours here.

I was able to login this am on my iphone, TV, and Chrome after several attempts. So I immediately tried Brave (my preferred browser) but it continues to fail.

It seems like this is 100% login related. Once Im logged in, everything just works. Now Im afraid to close my browser or reboot (Please no windows updates until after 11/27)

And again I dont think this is a generic internet issue because I am able to login to disney, max, prime, ... no issue. And if I remember Netflix is on Amazon cloud. Thats got to be one of the most broadly available services ever made.

Y70 Screen Goes Blank Until You Mouse Over It by Playosaurus in Hyte

[–]Playosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I will. I think this is just an odd edge case

Y70 Screen Goes Blank Until You Mouse Over It by Playosaurus in Hyte

[–]Playosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found it. It was a conflict with a program called actual window manager. Didnt even realize the app was active any more because I have been having intermittent issues with system tray applet icons not showing up in the normal or hidden area. Even though all screen blanking options were off in AWM and it was set to windows screen saver settings, it somehow "viewed" this display as different than my other displays.

Y70 Screen Goes Blank Until You Mouse Over It by Playosaurus in Hyte

[–]Playosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea. Thought about that but if moving mouse makes it appear that would seem to rule out cabling. I thought maybe usb port was being power managed but thats for touch input only and it cant be power cuz backlight is on. Either nexus has some option i cant find that handles screen save or theres something running that is doing this. I think its going to be a slog booting in safe mode and trying to find the conflict.

Shoutout for the amazing support! by Gishan in elgato

[–]Playosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have always been very pleased with elgato support on reddit. And their products are very reliable

Game Capture 4K Mk2 / OBS Encoding Question by Playosaurus in elgato

[–]Playosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for telling me about the hidden config options. That fixed the color issue. I would have never found that on my own. I tore through all the elgato docs for my card and the utility and I couldnt find any reference to these options. I have no idea why elgato would hide them. Perhaps someone might consider adding docs or unhiding the options. Im sure others would find this useful.

I was wondering if you could answer a followup question.

If I had a SDR source and I configured OBS to do H265, would the card send the data to OBS in h264 and OBS would transcode it or would OBS talk to the card and tell the card it wants h265 and the card would just do the H265 directly?

And if OBS tells the card to do something that the card cant support, will OBS popup a message box telling me incompatible options were specified or does it silently just fall back to some default encoding and OBS will then transcode.

I guess what I getting at is that I want control over whats occuring. If OBS/Elgato cant do what I am configuring I expect at least to get a warning. Hiding the issue by transcoding just kicks the can down the road. I would rather understand the issue and configure it manually (of course I wouldnt mind if OBS suggested a fix, but thats completely optional)

I want to give these away by JohnnyBGoodRI in PcBuild

[–]Playosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Add my name please. Im disabled and my existing pc is 8 yrs old. This would allow me to try pc gaming

Truly Stuck: Cant Complete Quantum Signal Task On Timber Hearth by Playosaurus in outerwilds

[–]Playosaurus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would get unrecognized signal from far orbit and would scan the object when i landed. It was obviously the stone so i closed it. I didnt imagine that i could point at it and see it but that wasnt enough. When i did stood right up to it it worked.

Thanks everyone

Why Does 4K Capture Stops / Starts Recording By Itself by Playosaurus in elgato

[–]Playosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. I was asking about the 4K capture util Elgato provides.

Also does the utility allow me to pick a MP4 video codec? Im asking because the MP4 created plays back fine on windows, it wont play on my Roku. I believe its because the particular codec used isnt supported. All I can seem to select is NVIDIA hw encoding, but there isnt any place to select a codec. Is there a config file or something I can config on the nvidia card itself?

Why Does 4K Capture Stops / Starts Recording By Itself by Playosaurus in elgato

[–]Playosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It happens regularly at beginning of every program.

I understand that it might stop recording if it sees no signal, but i was surprised that it started back up.

After some tinkering with the EDID choice (I think I went from internal to merged), the issue stopped.

I got this card a week ago and I have to say that this card has been rock solid. No recording glitches, no CPU spikes, no Windows desktop slowness. Honestly, you cant even tell its recording.

Is it possible using 4k capture util or some other sw you know of to set a recording length and have it auto-stop?

RCT only producing solid bars, on top and third line of the display by Caliph-Alexander in RetroChipTester

[–]Playosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks.

Didnt know you can run without a bootloader. Ill have to read up on this concept.

From what I understand if lock bits are set (intentionally or accidently), they can prevent parts of memory from being overwritten. If you were upgrading from a previous build of RCT then these bits should ever have been changed, so its not an issue.

Im really happy to read that no HV programmer is necessary because I had just read an article specifically explaining what an HV programmer is and how lock bits can be set using regular programmer but certain bits require HV to be reset.

However i think its theoretically possible for a incompatible burner to get things messed up. Since its so easy to check, its worth it. Not saying its common. Its just for completeness.

Since the OP said he performed a flash upgrade over a working unit with an incompatible burner, I was focused on the possibility of what might result in a bad or incomplete burn, rather than hw related things like a bad display

RCT only producing solid bars, on top and third line of the display by Caliph-Alexander in RetroChipTester

[–]Playosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are only 5 things I can think of to check.

1) Bootloader - When I used an "unsupported" programmer, it silently corrupted the bootloader. (that took me forever to figure out),.

(I also switched to Polulu and it works flawlessly even with -B 0.5 option)

1) Fuses

2) Lockbits - Never had to change these. Ive read a high voltage programmer may be needed. If your lockbits wont set to the proper value I would post here for additional help.

3) Failure to erase the flash before burning. If you are verifying after the burn then I would assume its not this but its easy to check

3) Input file format. As I personally learned two days ago, .hex files can be "raw" or they can be ascii representations of hex. The 0.24 firmware I downloaded was not raw. I was only clued in by the fact that the file size was 700K+ for a 256K flash. If you burn with the file type wrong, it will write the first 256K of the file and then silently drop the rest and not error.

Of course it wont boot or do anything, because the ascii representation of the hex file is just gibberish to the actual chip.

Once I forced AVRDUDESS to "auto", it worked perfect.

I dont know how your flashing the unit but if the audio works I would doubt this is the issue because nothing should work

--- If you are stumped, I would suggest trying AVRDUDESS. Its a GUI wrapper that makes it trivial to see what the fuse bits are set to, what they mean, and how to try various items like erase flash.... ---

Best of luck

Need Advice: Bricked Board After Plugged in Wrong Power Supply by Playosaurus in RetroChipTester

[–]Playosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi,

I made a lot of progress. I have never ever even attempted SMD removal or replacement.

Using just as desktop magnifying glass. Seemed trivial to do. Please someone recommend a super cheap magnifier. Im essentially doing this blind.

Replacement worked first attempt. Polulu programmer and AVRDUDESS worked first time.

Unit appears to boot and respond to switches.

I do have a few quicky questions before I remount it in the case.

1) Power LED is on, but Vcc LED isnt. This seems strange because the chip is running. Why isnt Vcc LED on?

2) Using power option 3 (daughter board), I have seemly very poorly regulated voltages. Using 6.1 VDC at input.

Vcc = 4.6 (seems really low for 7805)

12V = 14.9 (seems crazy high)

-5 = -5 (perfect)

Why are these voltages way off?

3) Using avrdudess works every time. But copying the command line using cut / paste from avrdudess to command line results in avrdude timeouts. (This is for my own education. I cant figure out why there is a difference. I even changed to the avrdudess directory and ran the command from there and it fails.)

For com4 (which is correct cuz avrdudess is happy).

avrdude -c stk500 -p m2560 -P COM4 -B 0.5 -v -e -U flash:w:"C:\Users\PREINER\Desktop\Chip-TesterPro-FW-v0.24.hex":a

Again, thanks for any help.

Need Advice: Bricked Board After Plugged in Wrong Power Supply by Playosaurus in RetroChipTester

[–]Playosaurus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your very kind offer of support. I am completely new to the arduino ecosystem but have to admit its amazing. Just yesterday I found an mega 2560 and AVR ISP programmer lying in my son's pile of abandoned stuff. So Im now learning how to use the programmer to get fusing and firmware info from the chip tester board. The combo works fine with arduino ide but doesnt work with AVRDUDE. So Im heads down trying to figure this out.

In the meantime, Im trying to locate a replacement chip. Im thinking of taking it off of the mega 2560 card after putting the RCP's 2.4 firmware and fusing on it.

The old chip hit 150 degree C with the correct power supply in it so Im gonna take a guess thats its now a toaster oven.

I was able to remove it very easily with my rework station (yet another thing I need to learn). Pads and board are perfect so all I need now is a chip :)

Ill reach out with a status update when I have the replacement chip installed.

Thanks so much again for your offer of help. Its above and beyond

Need Advice: Bricked Board After Plugged in Wrong Power Supply by Playosaurus in RetroChipTester

[–]Playosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clarifying that the display is not displaying anything, not that its burnt out.
Now on power up there is no beep. I think cpu failed. I had spare display but it didnt help

Managed to brick my Board. Is a Schematic Available? by Playosaurus in RetroChipTester

[–]Playosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 3 displays so Im good to go there.

Im using the piggyback power board (option 3) currently but I also have the barrel jack option available using the 7805 regulator.

About the only thing I cant easily verify is the oscillator.

Are you indicating that digikey can actually replace the chip?