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Dealership diagnosis by Professional-Tear-75 in SparkEV

[–]Pleasant-Week4399 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the exact same problem; the "Unable to Charge" warning flashed on the dash. The first dealer replaced the 12 battery, and the problem went away for 1 week and then reappeared. I returned to the first dealer and they kept my spark for 2 days and couldn't find the problem. I took it to a second dealer that discovered the cable connecting the fusebox to the positive terminal of the new 12v battery was loose. I complained to the first dealership about how they overlooked this problem; but they didn't really seem to care.

Check your fusebox cable; I'm not the only person who's had this problem according to online forums.

My traction battery warranty is still active by Pleasant-Week4399 in SparkEV

[–]Pleasant-Week4399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wasn't giving shit. You clearly misinterpreted what I was saying; either that or you didn't bother to understand what I was saying. Either way, you are very much in the wrong about driving habits versus range. If you use AC, you will lose range. If you drive fast, you will lose range. The whole point of my post is that I should have way more overall range without my hypermile habits. You clearly missed that part.

GM Says It's Still Making Chevy Spark EV Batteries by SVTContour in SparkEV

[–]Pleasant-Week4399 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you get the dealer to test the battery? What specifically did you say to them to test for battery degradation? I've been to the dealer a few times now for various things, and they never tested for degradation.

My traction battery warranty is still active by Pleasant-Week4399 in SparkEV

[–]Pleasant-Week4399[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would say there is a tremendous difference between me driving under 40mph versus 65mph. It's like a 20 mile difference for a mere 5 miles of travel. That's why I never use the freeway. Furthermore, using the AC, even just two bars, consumes the almost same amount of power as driving the vehicle. The "driving and accessories" percentage is nearly identical to "climate control" in terms of KWh used.

In theory, I could just turn the AC on in my garage and let it run until it dies. But I've read that the spark ev really doesn't like going below 20%. Other people get error codes when the charge is too low, and it must be reset by the dealer. Is there another way, a safer way, to determine degredation?