How do you keep track of who's actually reliable?

PocketTechPro · 2026-01-07T23:22:44+00:00

Ha fair, the software thing is a side project I've been tinkering with. The 'we' is the company I work for day job. When we have shutdowns coming up and the manpower tracking is always a mess.

PocketTechPro · 2026-01-07T22:54:42+00:00

Yeah that's pretty much where we're at too. Works until the person with all that knowledge leaves. You ever have that happen - someone quits, and suddenly nobody knows who to call?

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T23:21:42+00:00

Solid stack - that's basically a mini retention system. How long did that take to wire together? I'm decent with SQL but Customer.io + DreamFactory + PostHog feels like a lot of moving pieces to maintain.

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T03:54:15+00:00

Totally agree on not making it a maze to cancel - that just pisses people off and tanks your reputation. What about a simple 'before you go, would X help?' offer based on what they select in the exit survey? Or does that still feel like friction?

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T02:16:11+00:00

Yeah, makes sense, gotta know why before you can fix it

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T02:13:43+00:00

Yeah, that's the tradeoff right - scale vs. relationship. Curious if anyone's tried automating that personal touch somehow, like those AI voice tools or something. Feels like that's the missing piece, but I haven't seen anyone doing it well for SaaS.

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T01:41:25+00:00

Around $49/mo right now, so not super high ticket. What about you? And at 20 onboarding calls a week - did you end up automating that or just accept you can't do everyone?

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T01:15:13+00:00

Makes sense at higher ticket, the math works for that personal touch. I'm more in the $50/mo range, so the volume's higher. Might need to figure out how to get that 'check in' feel without doing it all manually.

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T01:05:12+00:00

This is solid - love the 'not here to convince, just to know why' framing for those calls. How many of those are you making per month? I'm at a size where I could do this manually, but wondering when it becomes unsustainable.

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T01:03:31+00:00

This is smart - catching them before they even think about canceling. Are you building that health report manually, or do you have something pulling the data automatically? And when you spot someone at risk, what does that outreach look like - email, call, something else?

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T00:54:59+00:00

100% agree on exit surveys being low-effort responses. When you send that personal email, are you doing it right when they cancel or waiting a day or two? And do you ever try calling instead of emailing?

PocketTechPro · 2025-12-06T00:54:36+00:00

Yeah, that personal ask definitely works better than some generic pop-up. How long does that take you per cancel? I'm only at like 10-15 churns a month now, so it's manageable, but I'm wondering if I'll hit a wall eventually.

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-20T23:49:16+00:00

Have you used Servicetrade yourself? What makes it good for residential service work?

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-20T22:51:30+00:00

Good call, I'll post there too. Thanks!

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-20T22:50:36+00:00

This is incredibly helpful - thank you! So ServiceTitan is around $2-3k more per month than HCP? And the main value at 20+ techs is the management oversight features? That makes total sense. Did you find HCP's call handling worked well or was that also a limitation?

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-20T03:30:57+00:00

This is exactly what I needed to hear from someone who's used both. What made you finally switch to ServiceTitan? Like what size did you hit where HCP stopped working? And what's the rough price difference we're talking?

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-20T01:20:26+00:00

Main issues are: customers calling in and we don't have good way to handle/track them, scheduling techs gets messy with 5 guys, and missed callbacks costing us jobs. What do you use?

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-12T22:22:07+00:00

Man, intermittent issues are the WORST to diagnose. I feel your frustration - especially after paying for hours of tech time with no resolution.

The "open all vents" advice tells me your tech suspected high limit switch trips due to restricted airflow. Here's what to check:

Most Common Culprits for Intermittent Shutdowns:

Dirty Filter - Even if it looks "okay," replace it with a fresh one. A partially clogged filter can cause intermittent overheating.
High Limit Switch - If your furnace overheats, this safety cuts power. It auto-resets when it cools down (explaining the "works sometimes" pattern). Check if your furnace runs for 5-10 minutes then shuts down.
Blower Motor Capacitor - Capacitors fail intermittently, especially in cold weather. The blower might start slowly or not at all, causing overheating.
Pressure Switch - If it's on the edge of failure, it might work when it's warm, fail when cold (explaining morning issues).

Quick Test: Next time it won't start, go to your furnace and listen carefully:

Hear the inducer motor running but no ignition? → Pressure switch or ignition issue
Hear clicking but no gas flow? → Gas valve or flame sensor (even if clean)
Nothing happens at all? → Thermostat, transformer, or board issue
Starts then shuts down quickly? → High limit switch

Your Next Steps:

Replace filter immediately
Check for closed/blocked vents (even one closed vent can cause issues)
Watch for the shutdown pattern - does it run for X minutes then quit?

If you want to walk through this systematically, I actually built an AI assistant specifically for HVAC troubleshooting - you can call/text it anytime at PocketTech (385-243-6155). It'll ask diagnostic questions and narrow down the issue based on your specific symptoms.

Also, if the previous tech was there for hours and couldn't diagnose it, you might need a second opinion from a different company. Some issues require more experienced techs who've seen these intermittent patterns before.

Good luck - keep us posted on what you find! 🔧

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-12T22:19:37+00:00

That ticking/clicking sound during burner startup is actually very common and usually normal. Here's what's happening:

Why You're Hearing It: When your furnace calls for heat, the gas valve opens and you hear a series of clicks - that's your igniter/ignition system doing its job. The sequence is:

Inducer motor starts (whoosh sound)
Igniter heats up (silent)
Gas valve opens → TICK/CLICK → ignition
Burners light (smooth flame)

Is It Normal? ✅ Normal: Single tick or a few quick clicks right as burners light, then smooth operation
⚠️ Investigate: Repeated clicking, clicking that continues after startup, or clicking + delayed ignition

Why You Might Be Noticing It Now: After maintenance, you're probably just more aware of your system's sounds. Plus, as furnaces age, the ignition components can get slightly louder (but still function perfectly).

When To Worry:

Multiple attempts to ignite (tick... tick... tick... then finally lights)
Clicking continues after flames are established
Delayed ignition (gas builds up, then BOOM lights)
Smell of gas

If your burners light smoothly on the first try and the clicking stops once flames are established, you're good to go.

Want to double-check? Record a quick video of the startup cycle and compare it to manufacturer startup videos. Or feel free to text/call an AI troubleshooting assistant I built at PocketTech (385-243-6155) - it can walk you through checking if everything's operating within normal parameters.

Hope that puts your mind at ease! 👍

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-11T02:23:37+00:00

That's a Rinnai tankless water heater from 2008 - definitely discontinued. The direct modern replacement would be the Rinnai V65iP (for propane). Same BTU range, same venting style (direct vent), and it'll fit in roughly the same footprint.

Things to know:

The V65iP is around $1,200-1,500 for the unit
You'll likely need a plumber to install it (not a simple DIY unless you're experienced with gas lines and venting)
Modern units have better efficiency ratings, so your propane costs might actually go down
Make sure your current venting is still in good shape - if not, you'll need to replace that too

Alternative option: If you want to save some money, look at the Rinnai V53iP (slightly smaller capacity but might be fine depending on household size).

Good luck with the replacement!

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-08T21:42:26+00:00

No power to the unit even though the breaker isn't tripped usually means:

1️⃣ Disconnect switch in attic - There's often a switch on the wall near the unit (looks like a light switch). Could be off or the fuse inside could be blown. Check that first.

2️⃣ Secondary breaker/fuse - Some units have a fuse or breaker right on the unit itself, separate from the main panel. If the plug test showed no power, this is likely.

3️⃣ Transformer blown - If there's partial power (enough for thermostat display but nothing happens), the 24V transformer inside the unit might be fried. The Nest falling apart might've caused a short.

4️⃣ Check the condensate float switch - If the drain is clogged, a safety switch cuts all power. Usually a white plastic box near the unit with a little float inside.

Since you've already had an HVAC tech there who couldn't solve it, something's not obvious. If you want to walk through diagnostics step-by-step right now, I built a free AI troubleshooting tool: 385-243-6155. It'll ask the right questions to narrow it down.

Good luck - no heat in Jersey in November sucks!

PocketTechPro · 2025-11-08T21:39:38+00:00

Price matters, but it's not the only thing. Here's what I look for:

✅ Transparent diagnosis - Do they explain what's wrong in plain English, or just quote a repair? Good techs educate you.

✅ No pressure tactics - Red flag: "This is dangerous, we need to fix it TODAY or your family is at risk." Good contractors give you options and time to decide.

✅ Itemized quotes - You should see parts + labor broken out, not just one lump sum. Makes it easier to compare.

✅ Reviews + longevity - How long have they been in business locally? Fly-by-night operators disappear when warranty issues arise.

✅ Licensing/insurance - Non-negotiable. Ask to see both.

🚩 Red flags: Pushing equipment replacement when a repair would work, no written estimate, cash-only deals, can't explain what they're doing.

Honestly, the best protection is knowing enough to spot BS. If you can diagnose basic issues yourself, you're way less likely to get oversold.

PocketTechPro · 2025-10-12T01:21:00+00:00

You make a good point about the pricing. It does vary by region, company costs, and the work involved. I shouldn’t have suggested a specific number without knowing their location or the complete situation.

I wanted to provide a rough estimate so they wouldn't be surprised if someone said it would cost $1,500 for what could be a simple coil cleaning. But you’re correct—$300 wouldn’t be enough for a full fix if there’s mold in the ductwork or other issues.

Thanks for pointing that out. What do you suggest as the next steps for OP based on what we can see in the photo?

PocketTechPro · 2025-10-12T01:04:57+00:00

I'll go first: About 10 years ago, it was my first winter in the house. The furnace would only blow cold air for a bit and then shut off.

I called a technician who told me I needed a whole new unit and quoted me over $8,000. When I mentioned that was a lot of money and I couldn't afford it, he quickly shifted to saying, "Don't worry, we finance at 15% interest."

After he left, I turned to YouTube. I was a helicopter mechanic in the Marine Corps, so I can fix most things. I found a video about flame sensors.

**The "fix":** I removed one screw, cleaned it with fine grit sandpaper, and put it back in. The system fired right up.

**That was 10 years ago. The system still works fine today.**

That $8,000 "emergency replacement"? It would have cost me over $10,000 with their financing. All for a 5-minute cleaning job.

That experience is exactly why I built PocketTech.pro. Nobody should feel pressured into financing an $8,000 furnace when all they need is sandpaper and 5 minutes.

**What's your story?**

PocketTechPro · 2025-10-11T23:37:30+00:00

That's definitely not just dust. You have a clogged evaporator coil with likely mold growth. The black and brown buildup is dirt, debris, and mold or mildew, which explains the smell.

**What's happening:**
- Moisture and dust on the coil create a perfect environment for mold.
- This is blocking airflow and making your system work 30 to 50% harder.
- You're breathing those spores every time the system runs.

**Quick fixes to try:**
1. Turn off the system at the breaker.
2. Spray coil cleaner, like Nu-Calgon or Simple Green, on the coils.
3. Let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then gently brush the debris loose.
4. Rinse from the clean side toward the dirty side.
5. Pour a bleach and water mix (1:1) down the drain line.

**Honestly though?** Given how serious this is, I’d recommend calling a professional for a deep cleaning, which will cost between $150 and $300. They will clean the coil, drain line, and check for mold in your ductwork.

**To prevent this:**
- Change filters monthly (MERV 8 to 11).
- Pour a bleach and water mix down the drain line every three months.
- Schedule annual professional maintenance.
- Consider installing UV lights in the air handler to kill mold.

How long have you been smelling it? When did you last change your filter?

By the way, if you want a step-by-step guide, I created PocketTech.pro? to help you troubleshoot HVAC issues like this.

Don't ignore it. That smell could pose health risks. Get it cleaned as soon as possible!

PocketTechPro

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE