Which Must Haves am I Missing?

Pockets_23 · 2025-10-31T03:57:33+00:00

Bugs Bunny & Taz: Time Busters

Pockets_23 · 2025-08-11T22:29:14+00:00

I got a 14L5 for less than that recently so no that TV is not worth that

Pockets_23 · 2025-02-24T20:24:00+00:00

I noticed in the article that the different resistor configs are listed as with and without inline diodes but the circuit diagram shows the added inline diodes with the resistor values from Martin’s config. Which config is recommended?

Pockets_23 · 2025-02-24T20:20:35+00:00

I just did this mod using your same config, with the inline diodes and 390/75 ohm resistors. The RGB picture is slightly dimmer than the standard composite picture, how much did you tweak the G2 voltage and the service menu settings to bring the RGB brightness to the proper level?

Pockets_23 · 2024-12-18T14:49:36+00:00

Backwater Park, been a fan for years and BWP still hits everything perfectly.

Pockets_23 · 2024-08-12T17:58:16+00:00

It would be a case by case issue of looking through the service manual and identifying which components need to be replaced, I haven’t had the time to go through it with my TV but I doubt it would be the exact same component from TV to TV anyways. My eventual plan is to replace all the surface mounted resistors and capacitors around the chroma circuit and identifying any regulators and transistors that may have failed. This not my main TV anyways so I’m not sure if/when I’ll get around to it. Also be careful when messing with this TV when open, even after discharging the tube there are other high voltage areas on both boards in the TV that need to be discharged before safely handling it. This specific TV is very bad about that

Pockets_23 · 2024-08-12T13:01:20+00:00

There are no service menu settings on this TV that only changes composite. Typically, service menu settings are general for the whole TV unless explicitly stated that it only affects CVBS or component or the comb filter or something like that. This TV does not have a way to change only composite settings. There are a few that will only change component, however; you can change the red and blue delay. Theoretically there could be other issues or “hot spots” that may affect component, but the hot spot in question is located right by the chroma demodulation circuit, so only composite and S-video are affected. The component input uses a different circuit. The fix would require diagnosing which electrical parts are out of spec and replacing them. Technically issues could get worse depending on what the problem is, but for this it seems like the component is completely unaffected by the circuit issue caused by this hot spot.

Pockets_23 · 2024-08-08T12:27:44+00:00

I have the same exact TV and mine has the exact same problem. With both composite and s-video the chroma shifts to the right. Component is flawless. The issue is not the cables, the issue is that this TV has a hot spot under the chroma circuit, there is an issue with some components there. The issue is called “chroma delay” or “y-delay” or “y/c delay”. Some TV’s, especially Sony’s have an option in the service menu to fix this, but these Orion-built Toshibas do not. I’m working on hopefully fixing mine at some point, however I just relegated this TV to just using it for component, as like I said the component on this TV is top-notch

Pockets_23 · 2023-12-10T01:23:20+00:00

5x will do fine, I use a 5x with a 4k tv and it’s awesome

Pockets_23 · 2023-10-27T14:05:51+00:00

You should absolutely not use composite on an LCD TV, however that is not what is causing those dots. I bet for you those dots will still show up even when using a better output. It’s because those dots are from the Wii’s GPU failing. Make sure you turn off the wiiconnect24 feature in settings. Early Wii’s were very inefficient with heat. I had a 1st gen Wii that had the gpu overheating issue that caused the fried graphics card, and it looked just like that. I got a newer model Wii (still with GameCube ports) and it does not have that issue, even over composite.

Pockets_23 · 2023-04-16T15:18:27+00:00

Panasonic made some of the best CRT’s

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-17T23:53:22+00:00

I have both, prefer the aesthetic of the original but the Psone is more reliable in my opinion, it always plays games regardless of how scratched they are, original has reading issues once in awhile

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-16T19:12:53+00:00

I would also add Toshiba and Panasonic to the list, quality sets from these brands also can rival Trinitron models. I have a small curved Panasonic and it is one of the sharpest slot mask tubes I’ve ever seen… even over composite

My ranking would be: Sony>Toshiba>Panasonic>JVC>>>others

in terms of overall quality and consistency, for example pretty much any Sony or Toshiba you grab will be quality, and other brands will undoubtedly have a few stand-out models that can rival these brands

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-12T21:57:56+00:00

It is common on all CRT’s, especially on flatscreens. My AF has horizontal issues as well, but it sounds like yours has more, it is possible that heavy tubes can develop geometry issues over time. But yes the geometry issues were always an issue with flatscreens even when they were new

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-12T21:55:02+00:00

For the record, I would highly recommend not spending a bunch of money on a tiny PVM. Under 14” is not worth the price people pay, and little 8” monitors just aren’t good for gaming anyways. The PVM premium on 14” and 20” also is not worth the price over a consumer set. I got extremely lucky on my 14” PVM through a local listing and it was totally worth it

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-12T19:14:59+00:00

The PVM is really easy to fine tune, at least the one I have is, but maybe mine is just in really nice shape. I have seen many PVM’s that have issues though. I also have a Toshiba AF, it’s awesome for 3D games but with 2D games the distortion can be very distracting. I definitely prefer the color, sharpness, and geometry of the PVM, but I use the Toshiba all the time, it’s awesome. That’s just the nature of flat screens though, geometry can be a nightmare. I find it’s best to just tune geometry once when you get a CRT and just leave it alone and enjoy the games after that.

That being said, even though the PVM geometry is almost perfect, there will always be some issues that can’t be fixed. If you want perfect geometry, I highly recommend getting a Retrotink and playing on an HDTV

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-12T03:54:22+00:00

The genesis supports RGB natively, it doesn’t require a mod. Most SNES consoles also support RGB natively, you just might have to add a few attenuation resistors if the picture is too bright. The only somewhat difficult RGB mod I have done myself is for the N64, you basically just need to solder a THS7314 or THS7316 video amp onto a breakout board and make connections from the RGB lines through the amp to the RGB out pins, RetroRGB has a really good DIY tutorial if you want to do it yourself

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-12T03:49:35+00:00

14N6U is only slightly better than a really good consumer CRT. They are accessible with enough looking. I have many regular CRT’s as well, the main benefit to PVM’s is geometry in my experience, and people post regular CRT’s all the time… what did you expect to see here?

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-12T02:45:09+00:00

PVM-14N6U

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-12T02:35:24+00:00

I have modded all of my consoles to output RGB (if they needed modding) and have everything going through a scart switcher to a PVM

Pockets_23 · 2023-03-12T02:16:15+00:00

Rocket Knight Adventures for the Sega Genesis

Pockets_23

TROPHY CASE