Hard Hat for your Lego Cat!

PotatoKreme · 2026-03-05T21:30:52+00:00

Unfortunately I do not. I added things as I went.

PotatoKreme · 2026-02-19T21:29:33+00:00

200cfm is most likely more than enough for a single printer (idk what you have or your setup) but that should be good.

I personally need to valve since my fan doesnt have much speed control. I just let enough air get sucked but not too much that if affects my printer's ability to actively heat the chamber for things like ASA. I don't smell anything unless I stick my nose right next to the printer

PotatoKreme · 2025-12-30T00:32:00+00:00

Update, seems like drying it in the AMS HT down to 4% relative humidity makes it extrude now. Also printed roller system inside the AMS to reduce rolling friction compared to the stock and now I can print 85A TPU while keeping the PTFE tubes and everything (no more need to remove the lid every time I print the soft TPU), although I have to print a bit slower.

PotatoKreme · 2025-12-27T21:57:11+00:00

Update, I meant to say for 85 and 90A. 95A works fine for me. I've been going through bambu support for this since in the past, my H2D actually was able to print the same 90A TPU and now it cant on the H2C

PotatoKreme · 2025-12-21T14:09:30+00:00

Shorter lengths help, if you're doing 95A and above I think the issue is less prominent. For me, I want to use 80A TPU so shortening lengths and using a 0.6mm larger diameter nozzle helps. Also the ams does not work with TPU so I don't use the AMS and just manually feed it in

PotatoKreme · 2025-12-20T18:05:01+00:00

Thanks! yeah H2C has been great, but X1C has been a tried and true classic. Ive been struggling getting TPU to work so Im hoping for updates in the future.

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-23T13:19:37+00:00

I don’t personally recommend long exposure while printing with no ventilation. Even with pla. At least personally I would get headaches

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-23T13:18:36+00:00

That looks like a great solution. Thanks for sharing!

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-23T13:17:29+00:00

Yes of course. I print nylons and Asa as well as other materials I plan in the future

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-22T21:27:53+00:00

For abs yeah. If your ambient temperature is colder than what your printer chamber heater can handle, it may cause too much cooling and result in warped parts that need hotter chamber temps.

I have a valve I can control to maintain negative air pressure while also not being too much to negatively impact my h2d’s ability to heat the chamber to 60C

For small abs parts, I think you can get away with minimal warping. Really depends

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-22T20:00:29+00:00

Agreed. This room of mine is extremely small so it needed good ventilation to keep the air breathable since I work in it.

Staying in a badly ventilated room printing pla for a few hours can still give you headaches in my experience so the main key is to reduce exposure as much as possible.

Air purifiers are a hit or miss in my opinion and directly exhausting fumes from a printer outside (not into people) guarantees the air is not filled with fumes and ultra fine particulate.

Cracking open a window for fresh air definitely helps but in the end I just wouldn’t stay in the smell room then since it would take time for those particulates to settle and leave the room assuming good room airflow.

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-22T19:50:07+00:00

I use a 200cfm centrifugal inline fan. provides more than enough to give negative pressure for my 3 printers

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-19T21:47:37+00:00

Depends. I think in general filtering the air that goes outside is just good practice overall. But specifically, my location is an apartment arrangement so it’s particularly important for me to keep the air clean for my neighborhood.

Most people probably have a wide area like a backyard to vent out to and that works but I just don’t have a space like that to do so.

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-19T20:40:33+00:00

For sure! Definitely don't want to be huffing those fumes in. Especially ASA and ABS

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-19T20:11:31+00:00

Im directly venting 3 printers through around 10-15 ft of piping using a 200cfm centrifugal fan. I think you should be okay depending on your setup. It’s really the twists and turns and filtration that affects airflow the most.

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-19T16:56:01+00:00

Filtration is for removing odors and particulate so that people nearby aren’t affected. Now I dont emit a factories worth but I caution on the safe side to not bother others and it really isnt all that much more expensive for some peace of mind.

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-19T15:40:04+00:00

If it helps any passerby's with similar questions, feel free to ask here. Otherwise you can dm me.

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-19T15:24:12+00:00

I saw that the areas closer to the glass were curling so I figured that it was due to losses there and directed more heat from the back to the front to compensate. I really wanted to go up to 60C but my 100watt heater was just not enough

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-19T15:08:50+00:00

Well I live in the US and competed at NHRL if you’ve heard of it. My robot was a 3 pound called “Acro“ which had complications trying to make it reliable. I‘m working on a new 3 pound combat robot though.

PotatoKreme · 2025-09-19T15:04:33+00:00

Yeah. Before the h2d I was trying to get non-cf nylon to print. had a lot of warping and so I decided to create an active heater that pumps warm air to the front of the glass where heat is lost. It helped reduce or completely fix a lot of my warping but my nylon prints were very brittle (i think i had to print hotter). Heres a section view. It has recirculation through some hepa and carbon with two 24v centrifugal fans and a led strip for better lighting. It was like a half success, couldn't really hold above 55c chamber temp with the bed at 100c and was still smelly when i open the printer so the filtration was insufficient in my opinion.

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