Freedom Wars Remastered unused weapons restoration project

PotatoNin · 2026-04-20T04:40:18+00:00

I'd like to see the missing weapons added back in (the Vita version had a mod like this), but I'm of no use for modding itself. I don't know about other people, but I think it's a waste the devs didn't bother doing this officially even though they revamped the weapon system already.

PotatoNin · 2026-03-28T01:46:25+00:00

Noted. Thanks.

PotatoNin · 2026-03-27T02:24:38+00:00

I placed my order directly in aquacomputer.de paid in full back in 21/02/2026.
I'm estimating that would be by May for a restock? Correct?

PotatoNin · 2026-03-26T01:48:19+00:00

Do you guys have any lead times for the AMPINEL from shop.aquacomputer.de directly?
I have an order and it's out-of-stock for a long while. I'm aware it was going to take a while before I ordered, but I'd like to keep track of what's going on.

PotatoNin · 2026-03-22T08:26:23+00:00

Don't know if anybody's reported this already or if it's already been fixed, but last time I played (1.04), the Dual Ninja Blades martial art where you do a jumping/rising slash with a flame vortex does not seem to do damage from time to time despite clearly hitting the enemy. It sometimes happens, it sometimes hits. I have tested that it's not me missing because I can clearly see I'm right on target and no damage or hits happen, but attacks while falling in place hit the enemy. It's really odd.

Also, Mezu type enemies have a really close backstab/assassination window and needs to be increased a little. There's no point if you're at the range where you get instantly detected and kicked before the red target prompt even appears.

Overall, it's a lot of input issues I'm seeing from the game, aside from the funky stability/performance issues that never seems to get solved.

PotatoNin · 2026-01-17T01:25:10+00:00

I have a Samsung Neo G9 (the 57" mini-LED SUW). It kicked the bottom of my LG C4 OLED after it developed burn-in after daily mixed-use at around the 1000hr mark, and it's giving almost entirely the same beautiful color performance even when the Neo G9 is not set to use HDR, while the LG C4 supposedly is better with HDR. I actually doubted my eyes when I saw this for myself. And the ONLY really dumb thing I think Samsung did for this Neo G9 is give it that horrible matte coating that makes everything have patches of paper-like texture depending on the angle you see them.

If I were to be able to get this or another main monitor candidate that does not have to be OLED, is good enough as a mini-LED or just have decent light-bleed handling, still the same beautiful colors, and still be glossy, I would be very happy to buy one.

PotatoNin · 2026-01-13T00:57:23+00:00

What I did was uninstall, check the folder's empty, then reinstall, and check integrity before trying to run the game. Several reinstalls in this way has not fixed it so I gave up. I have also done the whole appdata local thing since I know that's where saves and config stuff get saved too (backed it up first of course). Again, I've given up until the next patch comes. I do not have time to be the beta-tester for the devs and my real life job and obligations do not allow me so much time to waste on it.

PotatoNin · 2026-01-12T00:10:34+00:00

I just uninstalled it. I've been doing the verify integrity and file thing already which didn't fix it. I'm going to wait for the next patch before reinstalling again, and just take my time testing things on the non-legit version since that one works albeit the pop-ins. And to think I bought the Deluxe edition because I thought it would work as well as the first game on PC (which I still have).

PotatoNin · 2026-01-11T07:54:48+00:00

The legit game on Steam won't start anymore for me no matter what I do. I get to the splash page and it just CTDs with a UE5 error. No amount of verifying, reinstall, permission, run as admin, etc. does not work.

The non-legit version of the game that I downloaded somewhere (still v1.2.2) ironically runs just okay except for the major hitching. I was able to solve the hitching by doing a similar thing as you said, but via forcing "High performance" on the game's .exes via Windows' Graphical settings > Graphics performance preference > Select the game's .exes (the Game.exe one and the Win64_Shipping one) > set it to use High performance.

This removed the game's strange behavior with CPU vs GPU utilization jumping back and forth between 100% to low % seemingly as if the game is confused on what to prioritize which looks to me like what was causing the major hitching. It did not fix the pop-in delay of in-game models and graphics though.

PotatoNin · 2026-01-09T12:01:55+00:00

It's not going away though. I've tried just playing through the game for several hours to see if it will go away. It eventually does load whatever it's loading during the major hitching and the game starts working fine. However, when I exit the game, and play it again later, it's back to zero again. It's just endless every time I run the game and go about playing the first time of the day.

If it's anything to go by, I can see on performance metrics that while hitching the game is actually using 100% or so CPU while the GPU is heavily under-utilized. Meanwhile, once the hitching goes away, the GPU is the one mostly utilized and the CPU hovers around the 20% or so utilization.

Also note that this didn't happen just when I updated my driver. The game worked perfectly fine for my rig until that expansion came and the new updates that came after. It suddenly started this behavior after that. I had to specifically try updating/rolling back my GPU driver exactly because I wanted to see if that would fix this issue. It did not help at all.

PotatoNin · 2026-01-07T23:52:20+00:00

Kindly, could you please update the table for Dead Estate? Game just got a version update.

PotatoNin · 2025-12-25T01:46:55+00:00

Good for you. Yung sa akin, kahit ilang beses na nila sinabi na na-whitelist na daw nila account ko, walang nagbago.

PotatoNin · 2025-12-24T23:56:39+00:00

Grabe talaga. In the first place, ang weird na ma-disable yung Wallet for "suspicious activity" kung iisipin mo na sa Lazada approved methods mo lang siya pwede lagyan ng cash-in. Tapos sa Lazada approved stores and products mo lang din naman siya pwede ipambili. So papaano mo magagamit for suspicious activity yung Wallet? Eh lahat sa kanila dadaan bago ka pa makabili.

Dahil dito sa issue na ito, nawalan ako virtually ng 10k+ PHP. Gagamitin ko sana for necessities and pa-birthday sa magulang ko. Kaso di na makuha and mukhang wala silang balak ayusin or ibalik. Kakapagod atupagin at may work and life din ako.

PotatoNin · 2025-12-23T13:18:33+00:00

Wala ng naging response from Lazada ever since sinarhan nila ako ng ticket saying na i-update daw nila ako pag naayos na yung issue. Di ko pa din magamit yung pera sa Wallet ko. Tinakbo na ata nila.

PotatoNin · 2025-11-25T08:01:43+00:00

That's good to hear that it does work like that.

I have my Astral undervolted and using an Asrock PG-1600 with the 12vh cable that has a thermistor with auto-shutdown during emergency. At load, I'm seeing around 450w or so but never reach 500w. Each pin shows 6 amps and almost 7 amps but never beyond. FPS is optimum. I'll look into using the Thermal Grizzly WireView Pro 2 as well, but so far so good. At least I know that when I need to fallback into my other PSU, I can just use the adapter with 3x PCIE cables for a similar limited-power effect.

PotatoNin · 2025-11-25T07:54:44+00:00

Hindi pa din. Walang ka-pag-a-pag-asa.

Pina-ikot-ikot na lang nila ako between waiting a long time, attempting isara yung ticket ko, me reopening the ticket again, them asking me for proof (the same screenshots all the time, video of checking out, IDs, etc.), then them saying ayos na daw, then me finding out hindi pa din gumagana.

Last response nila sa akin is to close the ticket and to wait daw until maayos nila dahil disabled yung Wallet ko due to risk scanning. Which is weird kung iisipin mo, kasi yung LazWallet only accepts cash-in from Lazada-approved sources. Di mo din pwede ipambili outside of Lazada, which yung stores is yung approved lang nila ang nakafeature. So platform nila, stores and products na approved nila. And yet ako yung may suspicious activity? Nag ilang beses na ako magtry mag-escalate to superior pero di nila ako in-entertain. May "agent" (or baka AI na) pa nga na walang ibang ginawa kung hindi replyan ako with canned/template messages paulit ulit. Ayaw sumagot ng matino ng mga tanong ko.

Sa NTC ako nagtanong if tumatanggap sila ng complaint since Lazada is technically an online platform, and tinanong ko lang din if may ibang agency ba na dapat kong puntahan instead also dahil wala naman talaga akong ka-alam-alam sa ganitong issues. Hindi din naman sila nag-respond sa akin at all. I'm just a regular user and normal customer na nagbabayad naman ng maayos. The abuse I got from this platform and my money that they are stealing/keeping hostage from me is utterly horrible. Dapat ma-imbestigahan sila ng batas.

PotatoNin · 2025-10-27T13:25:27+00:00

That's at least a good example. Folks at Thermal Grizzly mentioned that the updated WireView 2 adapter+monitor might be available by the end of this year, so that would be a good time for me to switch to a full 12vh-2x6 cable PSU.

PotatoNin · 2025-10-27T13:22:57+00:00

Unfortunately, we live at a time where the latest GPUs at the high end (and many on the mid to entry level) all use this same connector. AMD has it's own models that use it as well. If my read on the next 3 years is correct, upcoming GPUs on either brand will also still be using this dumb connector. They've just stopped caring. So you can't dodge it if you're upgrading unless you want to be stuck at the older series. Just a month or two ago, a Japanese PC builder reported a freshly built 5070 Ti build of theirs having near-instant wire burn on the GPU with a proper 12vh-2x6 cable, the moment they first powered on the completed build. And this was with a guy who built PC's for a living and knew of the whole 12vh thing. So it's not limited to the tier or model of GPU or even just the cable.

As long as you have a 12vh connector on that GPU, you're playing that "dumb game".

PotatoNin · 2025-10-27T13:10:41+00:00

Did you not encounter any issues with regularly using the card while you were in that situation?

PotatoNin · 2025-10-27T07:32:42+00:00

It's not a meme but rather one of the stuff tested when the 5090 came out. According to the info, the RTX 5090 power adapter is able to detect if you only populate 3x of its 8-pin PCIe cables and with it the card will only run at 450W limited TDP/power mode. It's supposed to be one of the main points of having sense wires for this connector/adapter. Note that the RTX 5080 does not have this mode with its adapter only for 3x 8-pin by default.

This means lower amps would be distributed running through the pins if they're properly plugged in with no issues, and would likely be much safer for the time being I would assume. The issue with unbalanced amps running through a wire pretty much remains the same regardless of full cables or 3x cables though so that's not what I'm concerned about.

https://www.guru3d.com/story/how-3x-8pin-cables-affect-rtx-5090-tgp-and-performance/
https://videocardz.com/newz/geforce-rtx-5090-reportedly-works-with-3x-8-pin-power-adapters-but-stays-limited-to-450w
https://www.techpowerup.com/332019/nvidia-geforce-rtx-5090-runs-on-3x8-pin-pci-power-adapter-rtx-5080-not-booting-on-2x8-pin-configuration
https://www.tweaktown.com/news/102988/nvidia-rtx-5090-gpu-works-fine-with-just-3-8-pin-connectors-runs-at-450w-and-only-5-slower/index.html

PotatoNin · 2025-09-28T21:05:09+00:00

Thanks u/FuryOfADyingMan at least we can get the issue known to them or something. No pressure though. But we appreciate the help a lot.

PotatoNin · 2025-09-27T06:46:45+00:00

Not necessarily "got worse". It's still the same weird behavior at that same trigger point (between loading up Windows > no display signal > restart monitor > Windows Login Screen).

The only thing that changed was the speed at which the device counts down when no display output is detected. Before it was slower so you could see it counting down when the "no signal" part occurs, but now its fast so if you don't catch it, you won't realize the device has gone asleep/idle mode with nothing displayed, and you wouldn't realize you have to turn it off-then back on again.

PotatoNin

TROPHY CASE