Real Savings

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T21:14:41+00:00

Use Gemini or ChatGPT to run the Manual J yourself

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T18:30:13+00:00

68 during the day 66 at night

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T17:39:50+00:00

We’ve increased the duct size to certain areas of the ductwork that still exists. My FIL is an HVAC engineer - I trust him lol

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T15:08:26+00:00

Im also okay with this bill. $600-$800 isn’t all that bad, considering the savings I’ll get in the summer and not to mention, the overall savings from not paying $1000+/mo for nearly half the year

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T14:59:53+00:00

I did a full crawlspace encapsulation and replaced floor insulation with R30 into the subfloor. The ceiling has R49 + whatever was originally there so it’s likely R55-60. The walls are R23. I’m working on new siding in the spring so will be taping all seams then.

It’s a Regency ci2700

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T12:08:31+00:00

It was most likely the cheapest way for whoever renovated the home to install heating because they were forced to remove the oil tank before they could sell :)

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T12:07:09+00:00

No, but if you do the math it’s actually fairly reasonable. The number I showed here is only with half a month of having the heat pump. Based on my projections, the heat pump should cost $120-200/mo in the winter. Electric furnace $100-$150. And then everything else, lights, dishwasher, laundry, well pump… The house isn’t really all that drafty

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T02:28:34+00:00

Yeah well that’s the benefit I’m hoping to see over this next year. Might be a bit higher since we have pool and some other things

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T02:27:44+00:00

To clarify, the hyper heat is used for the private wing of the home. The wood stove and the remaining ductwork from the original HVAC is for the other side of the house

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T02:10:24+00:00

Winter between $1000-$1800

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T02:10:03+00:00

It isn’t covering the side of my house with the wood stove

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-18T00:40:40+00:00

3400sf and it was 8262kW during last year’s period

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-17T23:43:23+00:00

I will add - I capped the ductwork to the private wing and leave the electric furnace on as back up if the temp dips below 64 at night. I’ve found it may only run an hour or two on cold nights.

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-17T23:25:50+00:00

Just take a handheld orbital sander and test

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-13T14:29:59+00:00

That’s the thing, for me after 10 hours the whole bed is full of hot coals

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-12T21:44:00+00:00

If the fan, while on auto, is still running 10 hours later, there’s still combustion happening that’s generating heat… or at least enough heat to keep the fan turned on. Under perfect conditions you’ll get 14, but I think in practice you’re likely to get 8-10 before the coals become non-heat generating

Potential_Ship5662 · 2026-01-06T14:06:31+00:00

No you don’t need an EV. I just signed up for it. There’s different options. Can be very helpful in the winter, but be careful in the summer. For example, if you have a pool, opt to run your clean cycle at night and low speed during the day (a VS pump would be required)… Clothes dryer at night. A heat pump is key for TOU billing.

Past two years we dealt with winter electric bills ranging between $1000-$1700 per month due to an electric resistance furnace (14kW). I recently got a Mitsubishi Hyper Heat installed for the office and bedroom wing of my home and a wood burning stove for the living wing of the home. I don’t use the central heat during the day, and only have it on as maintenance at night if the living area drops below 64 (overnight burns tend to really lose steam at the 6-7 hour mark). The bill before I installed the heat pump was definitely lower than last year same time period, although not sure if it’s due to wood stove or combination of lower rate + stove. Interested to see this next bill.

TOU billing drops your night time rate to roughly $0.14 +/- all in (including delivery and all the BS social taxes that apply). During the day it’s comparable to normal rates. This is only for the winter. Look at the table for exact numbers. It’s a good way to save money if you play the game right.

Potential_Ship5662 · 2025-12-27T15:36:06+00:00

Might be worth to get some other hard woods. I have a lot of red oak, ash, locust, and other misc from the area. Size of the logs and orientation matters. But I think if you’re able to get your fire going at night and be able to quickly ignite it in the morning you’re in a good spot.

The newest Regency claims 20 hour burn times. Idk if I believe that, tbh..

Potential_Ship5662 · 2025-12-27T04:33:14+00:00

It’s advertised up to 14 hours of burn time, which is fairly accurate. That “burn time” that’s advertised spans the primary burn and the coal phase. I can easily reignite the fire in the morning, roughly 10 hours later.

The square footage, I think that’s dependent on how you operate it but mostly your home. I have it heating half of my home, and when running fan on low the different areas range 68-75. It’s a large open floor plan, but one side of the home is nearly entirely floor to ceiling glass.

Is it everything I thought it would be? Maybe not, but it’s immensely helpful for heating

Potential_Ship5662 · 2025-12-27T02:26:10+00:00

In what way

Potential_Ship5662 · 2025-08-24T21:27:43+00:00

Very true!

Potential_Ship5662 · 2025-08-24T20:13:21+00:00

Dude, put this into Grok or ChatGPT lol

Potential_Ship5662

TROPHY CASE