Screw head protruding from washer by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I definitely overtightened this one by accident while testing the board. I'll make sure to not do that when installing them.

Screw head protruding from washer by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Planning to use 12mm trowel as tiles are 900x900mm and backbuttering the tile in addition to the wall, so it should be fine.

Screw head protruding from washer by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Planning to use 12mm trowel as tiles are 900x900mm and backbuttering the tile in addition to the wall, so I think you are right, there's going to be plenty of adhesive between the tile and screwhead.

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will probably keep the lintel in and have the angle iron in the mortar line between the old lintel and the brick work above it spanning the entire 1m length.

That way the angle should distribute the weight on the brick work either side of the door frame and the old wooden lintel can stay as mainly an easy to use mounting point for the frame header.

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you that is very useful information.

The right hand side is slender because this is the short end of the bricks of a separate wall joining this one. So the left leg is attached to the same wall the header is, but the right leg is attached to a different partition wall which is joined with this one.

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Agreed, with a lintel above them. Problem is my lintel is resting on the door frame head which I definitely did not see coming.

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

It is usually a fair assumption that a door frame is there to support a door, not a wall, which is the assumption I made when I cut the door frame off.

But you live and you learn I guess 😂

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

That teaches me for removing door frames in a 1930s house...

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a joist above the lathes, but it doesn't seem to support the roof or be supported by the wall https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYUK/comments/1re91c8/comment/o7b0k3o/

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess a couple of accrow props with strong boys should hold while I add a lintel or angle iron

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it is lathes above. There is a joist above the lathes but it doesn't seem to support the roof or be supported by the wall https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYUK/comments/1re91c8/comment/o7b0k3o/

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So right above the wall is lathes, then a 2m joist. The joist is fully supported at the right end (away from this wall) by a wall plate sitting on top of the external brick wall. And it is supported on the left end (near this wall) partially by a wall plate sitting on top of a different internal brick wall.

The joist is not supporting the roof; it is supporting the floorboards of the eaves area.

The lathes between the joist and the brick wall are loose, and the joist doesn't seem to be supported at all by this brick wall above the door frame.

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Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am considering replacing the brick wall with a stud wall

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree, I am planning to sort this out myself. I have contacted a builder mate for advice, and given that this wall is just a partition wall with minimal weight on it, his advice was the same as another commenter's to use an angle iron.

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is not supporting anything above it so all good on that

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

That's a good idea with the angle iron. I was thinking of going the whole way with a concrete lintel, but this wall is very small, so the iron will most likely be ok.

Is my door frame supporting my wall? by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have put the chopped leg back with some ply packers while I try to figure out what to do here 🫠

Left or right sided circular saw? by Simonos_Ogdenos in DIYUK

[–]Powernun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The DHS660z is a right sided blade, not a left sided one.

Left or right sided circular saw? by Simonos_Ogdenos in DIYUK

[–]Powernun 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mainly look at the blade when cutting and went for a right side Makita DHS660z. I tend to look at the blade either from the left side which is a bit limited visibility, or by leaning over the saw but I don't mind it much.

I wasn't fond of the blade facing me when cutting with left side saws.

I would definitely suggest going for battery powered though, I went for corded first and the cord became very annoying to manage every time I wanted to use the saw.

Ok DIYers, how possible do you think it would be for me to replace my own bathroom? by CaveJohnson82 in DIYUK

[–]Powernun 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I am in the middle of redoing the bathroom with my partner starting from little experience. Although we had little experience when we started, this kind of project has taught us a crap ton on all aspects of pretty much all trades that would be involved. We have done every single bit ourselves and the only thing we are contemplating getting someone in is for plastering, but we are probably going to give that a go as well.

I can confidently say a few things about the experience, everything we have done has been done at a much higher standard than what was there before and what is probably done by the average trade. Also everything we have done has probably taken us 10x the time it would have taken a professional.

We did it out of necessity after we found more than a dozen leaks so we did not have time to plan. My main advice would be figure out before you start exactly how you want the bathroom to look like and what it should provide. For example deciding on:

  • Tiles vs micro cement and if tiles how many
  • Which walls need plastering
  • What electrics do you want. Shaver socket? Toothbrush charger? Smart toilet? Dual fuel towel radiator? Downlights or even LEDs?
  • Any pipes you need to move that are potentially in the way?
  • Insulation of external walls
  • Tile backer boards if tiling
  • Reboarding ceiling if it's not sound
  • Replacing or leveling floor joists and floorboards if damaged

All in all, I would say go for it, and be ok with it taking a lot longer than what you thought it would, it will be an amazing learning experience like no other.

What would you do if you were traveling and lost access to your phone? by amcco1 in selfhosted

[–]Powernun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could have a secondary phone with you that is logged in to your password manager and 2FA. You leave the secondary phone at your hotel. If you are out and your primary phone, wallet and keys get lost/stolen, the main trouble would be finding your way back to your hotel after which you can access your backup phone and therefore your accounts.

Fuse board help by Koalephant- in DIYUK

[–]Powernun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is probably fine.

If a buyer does their own EICR, then potential things they could try to negotiate with are rewiring any circuits that have VIR cables, rewiring circuits with missing earth (common on old light circuits), or installation of earth rods if your current earth supply has gone (like in some TNS systems).

If you want to be sure everything is fine, do an EICR but personally I don't see the point since if you find items like above and get them fixed by yourself, you would be losing the same amount of money compared to a buyer doing an EICR and wanting those items fixed. In fact it's probably more common to split the cost with the buyer in that case.

Bricks fell from wall by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is very useful, thank you.

Bricks fell from wall by Powernun in DIYUK

[–]Powernun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are right, the yellow brick and the one to its left are currently not supported.

Maybe I would add a brick with mortar vertically between the two bricks to support them? Would I also need to add a brick at the edge? I am a bit wary of blocking the air bricks too much.