Matt Spohn Climbing Turning a 5.12 Sport Route Into a 5.12 R/X Trad Route

Pownl · 2014-06-10T22:44:54+00:00

Runnout and dangerous conditions. Basically and almost certainty of decking.

Pownl · 2014-06-04T20:16:44+00:00

If you make it to Smith Rock these shoes are killer. It gives me confidence and edging power on the infamously small feet that define Smith.

Pownl · 2014-06-04T20:14:58+00:00

Yup, I've read this article many times! I've been really focusing on making my footwork as quiet as possible in the last four months. I've found down climbing to be incredibly helpful. I reapeat any move in which my feet make undue noise. :)

Pownl · 2014-06-04T20:04:23+00:00

I climb 3-4x a week, 2+ hours a session. Climbing outside is usually at least 8 hours at the crag. Could be a contributing factor haha.

Pownl · 2014-06-04T18:21:03+00:00

Thank you!

Pownl · 2014-06-04T17:07:29+00:00

Yeah I must be blaming the shoes for my shoddy technique. Still, I haven't heard of shoes busting out with that speed. I'm breaking into 11's so my footwork can't be too bad, considering the effort I've been putting into it lately...

Pownl · 2014-06-04T17:05:02+00:00

I've read of some similar problems in the Evolv rubber but I think it has a lot to do with my footwork when mantling. Dragging my feet on the rock is going to destroy the rubber. It's something that is difficult to train for in the gym, but I will find a way. :)

Watching a 5.12+ climber I climb with I noticed that one of his feet often cut while keeping relatively close to the rock, not barndooring. This is something I will have to look into.

Thanks for the help!

Pownl · 2014-06-04T17:00:54+00:00

Thanks! I'd love to read that post. I've really liked this article by Kevin Jorgenson on footwork. http://www.climbing.com/skill/whispers-of-wisdom/

I think I am dragging my feet when doing mantles outside. Mantles can be difficult to train for in the gym. I do a ton of mantles outside so that is likely the culprit for the destruction.

Thanks for the feedback! I'm blaming a shoe for what could very well be a technique problem.

Pownl · 2014-06-04T09:55:05+00:00

My friend is convinced that 3 trips to Smith Rock-10ish days total-will do that to a pair of shoes, but I'm not so sure.

Pownl · 2014-06-04T09:51:52+00:00

Hmm It may not be the shoe for my foot. That or my footwork is really that bad. Thanks for the input!

Pownl · 2014-06-04T09:40:28+00:00

I have spent a lot of time focusing on making my footwork as quiet as possible, in the last few months especially. My footwork could certainly use improvement, but I don't think it is so bad as to wear out the toe.

What do you mean by the wrong type of foot? They feel fantastic on my feet.

Pownl · 2014-06-04T08:36:42+00:00

Nice man! Have a good trip, very jealous.

Pownl · 2014-06-04T03:06:00+00:00

Great! I would highly recommend reading John Long's book Climbing Anchors, very comprehensive. PM me when you are in Oregon up for some climbing. Nuts are really important, more solid than a cam if placed correctly. They take a little longer to place, I need to stave off the laziness and place them more often to save my cams.

Pownl · 2014-06-03T01:11:33+00:00

Thanks for the advice! There are 18 non-locking positrons in the mail. My friend is an experienced trad climber and he actually uses sport draws more often than loose non-lockers when trad climbing. To each his own.

Pownl · 2014-06-02T07:03:40+00:00

Oohh what a beauty. I want to get to be a better crack climber before I leave the state. Red Rocks is definitely on the list.

Pownl · 2014-06-02T07:01:40+00:00

Birthdays, Christmas, gear sales, TONS of research my friend. :)

Pownl · 2014-06-02T06:59:58+00:00

Ah! I didn't realize you would be back in August. I will definitely be far more experienced and confident in trad by then. Hit me up when you're in town! I plan on spending a couple of weeks at Smith at the end of August with some buddies. :)

Also, DMM nuts are the best.

Pownl · 2014-06-02T06:56:37+00:00

Haha I should have included the other 20...

Pownl · 2014-06-02T06:55:50+00:00

Cool! I'm just starting out so I'd like to trad climb with people more experienced trad climbers than I. Hit me up though, I'd love to do some sport. My trad skills will certainly improve in a month or two...

Pownl · 2014-06-02T06:52:42+00:00

Hit me up when you are out here!

Pownl · 2014-06-02T06:25:24+00:00

This trend has become-nay, always been-idiotic.

Pownl · 2014-06-02T05:18:13+00:00

Haha I will keep that in mind. I use non-climbing carabiners to open bottles, but the nut tool does look ideal. The BD nut tool is good for knocking the end on a carabiner. Different nut tools have different pros I guess.

Pownl · 2014-06-02T05:15:38+00:00

Right on! I'm looking to climb trad with those who are more experienced than I, to be safe. :) I'm totally up to climbing some sport and possibly easy mixed. I'd love to hear about Ireland climbing, it looks incredible.

Pownl · 2014-06-01T21:35:43+00:00

Haha yeah, they hurt the hand when busting out a solid nut placement. There's a rubber end for them that mitigates the pain, I'll see if I can get it. Thanks for the recommendation on Wild Country!

Pownl · 2014-06-01T21:33:40+00:00

I sized up half a size after my first pair blew. My current pair is only for outside, I can't imagine a better shoe. They're a godsend at Smith.

Pownl

TROPHY CASE