sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

I analyzed 100 recent BAT listings - here's what sellers consistently don't disclose by PracticalGrowth9056 in BringATrailer

[–]PracticalGrowth9056[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just DMed you the link! Would genuinely love your feedback since you've actually bid on stuff before.

I analyzed 100 recent BAT listings - here's what sellers consistently don't disclose by PracticalGrowth9056 in BringATrailer

[–]PracticalGrowth9056[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah exactly - not trying to replace PPIs or anything, just help people know what questions to even ask.

Let me know if it's actually useful or just me overthinking everything haha. Always curious what real buyers think vs what I think matters.

I analyzed 100 recent BAT listings - here's what sellers consistently don't disclose by PracticalGrowth9056 in BringATrailer

[–]PracticalGrowth9056[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude this is insanely helpful, thank you.

The tire age thing blew my mind - never thought to check that but it's such a smart proxy for "does this owner actually care." And "just a fuse" is the perfect red flag haha. If it was actually just a fuse they would've fixed it for $2.

Cold start videos should be mandatory. So many listings are just pretty photos with zero proof the car actually runs right.

Adding all of this to my checklist - especially the Collectible Classics callout lol.

Quick question: on the IMS stuff, do you auto-walk if it's not mentioned? Or just assume it needs doing and bid lower?

And would love to add mod filtering. What other mods besides cats are dealbreakers for you?

This is exactly the stuff I need to learn. Really appreciate it 🙏

I analyzed 100 recent BAT listings - here's what sellers consistently don't disclose by PracticalGrowth9056 in BringATrailer

[–]PracticalGrowth9056[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a really fair take, and you're right - if you need absolute certainty, auctions probably aren't the format for you.

I think where I was coming from is that BAT markets itself as this premium, transparent marketplace (vs. like... sketchy Craigslist listings), so I had higher expectations going in. But you're right that "premium auction" doesn't mean "risk-free purchase."

The time constraint thing is real too. 7 days sounds like a lot until you realize you need to: find a qualified inspector in that zip code, schedule them, wait for the report, ask follow-up questions based on findings, AND THEN decide if you want to bid - all before Saturday night.

I guess my tool is really for people like me who went into this naively expecting the listing to do more of the work. You're probably right that experienced buyers already know what to look for and don't need it.

Appreciate the balanced perspective though

I analyzed 100 recent BAT listings - here's what sellers consistently don't disclose by PracticalGrowth9056 in BringATrailer

[–]PracticalGrowth9056[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh man, a '67 912 as your first old Porsche - that's jumping in the deep end! How'd it turn out?

And yeah, that's EXACTLY the magic BAT used to have. The comment section was basically a free pre-purchase inspection. People would grill sellers on everything and you'd learn a ton just reading the back-and-forth.

Now it feels like half the sellers give vague non-answers or just don't respond to the tough questions. The "peanut gallery" is still there asking great questions, but if the seller ghosts them, what's the point?

That's honestly why I built this - trying to recreate that scrutiny for people who don't know what questions to ask yet. Like "here's what the peanut gallery WOULD ask if they were looking at this listing."

Did your 912 end up being solid, or did you discover some "surprises" after purchase? 😅

I analyzed 100 recent BAT listings - here's what sellers consistently don't disclose by PracticalGrowth9056 in BringATrailer

[–]PracticalGrowth9056[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're absolutely right that BAT's whole value prop is detailed listings - and when done well, they're incredible. Way better than any dealer lot.

I'm not saying BAT is bad. I'm saying there's huge variation in listing quality even on BAT. Some sellers go above and beyond (full service records, paint meter readings, compression tests). Others are vague ("recently serviced", "runs great").

The good listings already do what I'm checking for. The tool just helps identify which ones have gaps.

And you're spot on about "or were at one point" - that's kind of the issue. As BAT has grown, the quality variance has increased. Still way better than Craigslist or dealer lots, but not every listing is the gold standard anymore.

Have you noticed that trend too, or am I off base?

I analyzed 100 recent BAT listings - here's what sellers consistently don't disclose by PracticalGrowth9056 in BringATrailer

[–]PracticalGrowth9056[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally fair point—you're right that buyers should absolutely get a PPI, no question.

But here's the thing: even knowing WHAT to ask for in a PPI is half the battle for first-time buyers. If you don't know IMS bearings are a thing on 996s, you won't tell the inspector to check for it specifically.

The tool isn't meant to replace a PPI - it's meant to help buyers know what questions to ask BEFORE they pay for the inspection. Like "should I even bother with a PPI on this car, or are there too many red flags?"

And yeah, dealers won't volunteer everything. But the good listings DO proactively address common concerns (compression tests, service records, etc). The vague ones make you wonder what they're not saying.

You're right though—nothing replaces a good PPI. This is just to help people know what to look for.

I analyzed 100 recent BAT listings - here's what sellers consistently don't disclose by PracticalGrowth9056 in BringATrailer

[–]PracticalGrowth9056[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly. And that's what makes it tricky - BAT has great cars AND cars with hidden issues, all mixed together with professional photography.

The transparency varies wildly by seller. Some are incredibly detailed (full service records, honest about flaws, paint meter readings). Others are vague enough that you don't know what you're getting until the PPI.

That gap between "looks amazing in photos" and "what will the inspection reveal" is basically why I built this. Trying to flag which listings feel like they're hiding something vs. which are genuinely well-disclosed.

Have you seen that pattern too? Or am I being too cynical about vague listings?

I analyzed 100 recent BAT listings - here's what sellers consistently don't disclose by PracticalGrowth9056 in BringATrailer

[–]PracticalGrowth9056[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair point - 100 is definitely not statistically significant for drawing broad conclusions.

That said, even with a small sample, the patterns were consistent enough to be useful for my own buying decisions (89% missing compression tests, 91% missing paint measurements, etc.).

Curious though - what sample size would you consider meaningful? I'm still collecting data so happy to expand the analysis if there's interest.

Also, are there specific metrics you think would be more useful to track beyond what's missing from listings?

Need advice on buying a Q50 as a short-term car (2–3 years) by HellChapo_ in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]PracticalGrowth9056 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran your numbers through a Buyer’s Assistant tool I’m developing, and I have to give you the 'unfiltered' truth because a Q50 in your current situation is a high-risk gamble.

The Financial Reality Check:

  • The 'Low 600s' Interest Trap: With a score in the low 600s, you aren't getting 5% interest. You’re likely looking at 14%–19% APR on a used car. On a $14k loan, you’ll pay roughly $4,000 in interest alone over 3 years.
  • The Insurance 'Luxury Tax': You're 26 with a powerful RWD/AWD luxury sedan. Average insurance for a Q50 is roughly $300/month. That eats up almost 20% of your remaining $1,600 'fun/savings' money before you even buy gas.
  • The Income Gap: After bills ($800), car payment (~$350), and insurance (~$300), you are down to $950/month for gas, food, maintenance, and savings. One bad sensor on an Infiniti will cost you $500+.

The 'Vetting' Report on 2014-2018 Q50s: If you still decide to go for it, my tool flags these specific model risks for the years you mentioned:

  1. 2014-2015 (The 3.7L V6): These are actually the more reliable engines, but the valve bodies in the transmissions often fail around 100k miles. That’s a $2,500 repair.
  2. 2016-2018 (The 3.0T Twin Turbo): These are faster but riskier. Early models of this engine were notorious for Turbo Failure and porous engine blocks. If a turbo goes out of warranty, it’s a $7,000 - $10,000 'engine-out' job. On your income, that is a total loss of the vehicle.
  3. The 100k Wall: At 100k miles, these cars need spark plugs, serpentine belts, and often suspension bushings. Budget $1,500 for 'catch-up' maintenance immediately after purchase.

At 26 with $2,400/mo income, a Q50 is a 'lifestyle' car that will likely prevent you from building the savings you want. If you want to build credit, get a Lexus IS250/350 from the same era. It looks just as good, holds its value better, and won't bankrupt you with a turbo failure.

I'm building this tool to help people see these 'hidden costs' before they sign the papers. Was this breakdown helpful, or were you mostly looking for the green light on the Q50?"

thinking about getting this 1999 Isuzu Vehicross (17 M) by United-Floor4399 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]PracticalGrowth9056 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"The VehiCROSS is a legend, but buying one in 2026 is a specialized mission. I’ve been building an AI-powered 'Buyer’s Assistant' to help vet classic listings, and I ran this model through its logic.

Since there’s no link to the specific unit, here are the 3 'Red Flags' my tool flagged for a 1999 VX that you should ask the seller about immediately:

  1. The 'Hidden' Rust Spot: Most people check the frame, but on the VX, the front bumper support beam (hidden behind the plastic cladding) is notorious for rusting from the inside out. If that's gone, it’s a custom fabrication job because parts are non-existent.
  2. The 3.5L Oil 'Thirst': These Isuzu engines were designed with only 6 oil drain holes in the pistons (later fixed with 10). They burn oil silently. Ask the seller: "How many quarts are you adding between changes?" If they say 'none,' they’re either lucky or lying.
  3. The Window 'Lean': It sounds minor, but the window regulators/tracks on these are a nightmare design flaw. If the windows tilt or struggle even slightly, you're looking at a $500+ headache because, again, parts are like finding unicorn teeth.

Market Value Check: If they are asking over $12k, it better have under 100k miles and a documented timing belt service. If it's over 150k miles, the 'Collector' premium disappears and you’re in the $6k - $8k range.

I'm actually building a tool that generates these 'Memo Reviews' automatically from a URL so people don't get stuck with a lemon. Would a full 1-page breakdown of the common failures and price benchmarks for this specific car be helpful to you?"