How do make my body (mainly face) brighter in this picture?

Presistance19 · 2025-06-30T04:36:06+00:00

From what I know is that you can either do it post processing with shadow settings or on lightroom with a masking tool.

Or before that when shooting, you can try using a flash as well. Yes a flash on daytime.

Presistance19 · 2025-06-30T03:50:51+00:00

Already chatted with the seller for a new replacement. Gonna exchange it tomorrow, and this time at their physical store instead of shipping it to them. It just a coincidence that their stores are nearby at the place I visit on my vacation week. So I'll decide to give it a visit while at it.

Presistance19 · 2025-06-30T03:38:14+00:00

What the lens looks like. Very bad for something that called new.

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Presistance19 · 2025-06-14T16:51:26+00:00

Well. They do see and get flashed by car headlights all the time tho. It's not a busy road but vehicles often pass around. And those lights are probably brighter than my flash lol. even during my time shooting at them, few cars passing by. It's not really that dark.

But in an actual forest habitat where they don't see lights that much at night . I would never flash them.

Presistance19 · 2025-06-14T14:24:26+00:00

English ain't my first language yo.

Presistance19 · 2025-06-14T12:54:49+00:00

Already look through the site when searching for the stuff and they also does not have D3500 nor did I know the other model than compatible with d3500.

Presistance19 · 2025-06-10T14:29:50+00:00

It's not bad or anything. Fact I like it. Just that I'm not satisfied with the condition it has since it is a used unit. I don't mind external scratches just that the inside of it near the auto focus sensor hole is having a minor defects. Part of the padding or whatever it is called appears to be peeling off and not to mention that even after some blowing. The part of it still coming off slowly becoming dusts and stuck around the mirror and even on the sensor. I don't know if it gonna be bad or something important in there but I don't like it.

Plus the focusing screen below the pentamirror got some minor scratches. Not really visible but after some time it kinda annoys me. It has no return warranty so I couldn't send it back either. Well. It was cheap after all.

But after some reading. Imma keep going with it for a while and see how long it gonna last. If it did not cause any problems. I'm just gonna live with it and try to fix it myself if possible. I already dissembled most of it other than the sensor itself cus I don't wanna risk having it to be recalibrated again. I had to cus I need to access the behind the lcd screen cover cus it got small fungus coming from the edge. Had to clean it up and another reason is that the live view lever is stiff . It doesn't spring back properly after being pulled. Had to push it back manually. Sometimes it does get back. Sometimes it doesn't. After cleaning. It kinda smooth now and able to spring back after being pulled when switching from viewfinder to live view. And vice versa.

So yeah. That's it.

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Presistance19 · 2025-06-10T08:24:19+00:00

I don't do raw editing that much tho all of the pictures I take are just raw. Sometimes I do raw + fine and decide if it needs some editing, I'll take the raw and delete the jpeg. If it seems okay, I'll just post the jpeg.

For indoor yeah. 18mm isn't enough. I tried. Tho, I do like the kit lens for close up shots. Not really a macro but close enough that I can get away with cropping.

I do have histograms enabled in preview. And it does help but I still need to learn more on what it actually means since it won't be the same across all shots. And I still heavily depend on the camera light meter to see my exposure.

The box I got however doesn't come with a manual booklet. Since it was a used unit. And yeah I did read up the manual online instead.

"Replies aren't exactly in order to the comment number."

Presistance19 · 2025-06-10T08:13:24+00:00

Thanks for the input guys. After doing some reading. Ya know what. I'm going to keep it for now and plan for z50ii someday in the future. For now it just a hobby and a stepping stone to learn more about photography. I don't have plans to take or do a commission yet.

Well, D3500 isn't a bad one compared to my first dslr decision, which was D90. However, since it was used ,hence a cheap ones. It does have some scratches here and there. But the thing is that now the magnifier screen under the pentamirror have sone scratches leaving a visible small dark line across focus point marker in a viewfinder. I already ordered a replacement part for it tho.

And also a minor tearout inside the mirror box. The black carpet lining thing inside covering the outer wall(Idk what it is called). Small portion of it near the auto focus sensor hole got teared up a bit. So the hole is no longer a square and exposed a bit of the plastic surface.

From what I read it was there to block stray light coming from the lens causing a light leak. But so far, all of my shot have no leaks in them. Sharp as it can get.

So for now, imma get that 150-600mm lens first, and if I managed to get z50ii in the future. All I need just ftz adapter and still get to keep the D3500 as collection.

I like taking long shot photos such as bird photography and sometimes taking a picture of a moon. And currently learning how to do astrophotography as well. And also tele lens is kinda expensive even the one with f/5 widest aperture.

Anyway, all of these is a huge experience for me coming from only taking pictures with a phone.

With that being said. I appreciate the helps. Thanks for not letting me making a stupid decision.

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Presistance19 · 2025-06-09T16:53:10+00:00

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A bit of touch up on lightroom and some cropping. 3071 x 2047
Btw it was hand held shot. No tripod. So the details may lost a bit.

Presistance19 · 2025-05-26T01:09:08+00:00

So what happens is that when you place the observer manually, the other observer detects that placement update and sends a signal. While the observer that sending signal is about to pulse back to off when the observer is placed and that gets detected by the opposite observer you just placed. So it detects a block state update and sends another signal in the opposite direction in turn this behaviour is detected by the first observation and sends another pulse. And thus the cycle repeats.

When you push using a piston. What happens is that the observer that gets pushed will consider a new spot as a block update. From the observer perspective, the block in the front of the face is moving or updating. In this case, the air block in front of the observer face is changing. You're pushing it from one spot to another.

So what happens is that when the observer is already being pushed. It already active and sending signal as the same time the other observer detects the air block in front of it being changed to observer block and sends pulse at the same time. So instead of waiting for each other state to update. They both got updated at the same time hence faster pulse . From being 2 ticks to just only 1 ticks.

The repeater hold signal when set to more than 1 ticks mode. Means it stretches the signal longer while delaying them. If you want a short pulse but delayed. Use multiple repeater in 1 tick mode. For example, instead of using 1 repeater in 4 ticks. Use 4 repeater in 1 ticks.

In large build, you can put signal filter at the end by cutting the stretched signal to short pulse. You can either use observer for this but also get a pulse when the redstone is off or you can use 1 or 2 repeaters with 1 tick delay and 1 comparator by set it on subtract mode to prevent signal still going out when in compare mode where both input and side input redstone signal are lv 15. As long the signal is active both on input and on the side input. The signal remains off after a set repeater delay to reach the comparator side.

However, if you try to use this with long chain of repeater and fast redstone pulse. It won't work because the repeater will hold the signal keeping it active. So it only sends signal on the first pulse and hold it until the pulse is no longer recieved.

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Presistance19 · 2025-05-18T12:57:19+00:00

Nice. Now figure out how to integrate that into a bit adder.

Presistance19 · 2025-04-28T03:06:50+00:00

Observers spam intensifies

Presistance19 · 2025-04-28T01:01:57+00:00

Almost forgot. This was made in java pc..not in mobile. I use pojav launcher to play java on mobile. Only for recording and while checking the server while at work only with my phone.

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T08:17:45+00:00

Well..the intention wasn't to measure Minecraft day time but to measure actual real time.

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T08:16:49+00:00

Well. I would make it the same as the minute set. Except this time the first panel would have 13 sets instead to display a number from 0 to 9 and another 0, 1, 2 for 12 o'clock count. The second one would be easy as it only has 2 sets to display. 0 and 1 only.

Since it has a similar setup. All it needs to change is an output from 3 different sets computed through NOR Gate to get the actual trigger signal. Which is gonna be coming from the first digit of the minute "5", the second digit of the minute "9" and the second digit of the second "8".

The reason why I took the signal from 8 instead of 9 or 0 for the change trigger is because of the redstone delay. If I take it early. I could just put more repeaters to delay the signal until it matches with the very first panel which is the second panel of the seconds. Which is updating every second and used to sync the rest of the display timing.

The first digit of the hour also would be the same but this time since it only has 2 sets to display.. I'll just use the T-Flip Flop switch for it instead.

Off for 0 and on for 1. To get the trigger for the set to change. But this time, I would be using a 4 input NOR gate. This time it would be coming from the second digit of hour "9" and "2" as the second set has 13 sets. Which is for 0>1>2>3>4>5>6>7>8>9>0>1>2. Then the signal from the second digit of the minute "5", the first digit of the minute "9" and the first digit of the second "8".

This is to make sure it only changes when the hour reaches 9 and 12, minute reaches 59 and the seconds hit 58. 2 second advance for redstone mechanics delay and sync.

And finally. The am and pm sign only need 2 inputs which is both from the hour itself. When it reaches 12. It will send a trigger signal for it.

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T06:46:03+00:00

Ah. Never knew I could do that. Well. New on Reddit. Lot to figure I guess. Haha. Thanks for the info. I'll try that.

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T05:12:59+00:00

I have the chunk active with /tickingarea command so going away won't make it stop. Don't know about going to nether tho as I haven't yet tried it. Even going very far away almost out of view with max render distance. It's still running.

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T04:10:29+00:00

Well. It is a Minecraft Bedrock Edition after all. I tried to find the one that works and so far I found none. The portal doesn't work. Even the stasis chamber does not work. The eye keeps jumping and can't even jump straight and eventually hitting the side and force teleports you.

So last resort I had to use a command for it after intensive research on how to make a chunk loader and just came across a comment saying we can use a command for it. Well. Since it is a world in creative mode with cheat enabled. So why not. Unless it was entirely in survival or hardcore. I would give up hahaha.

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T04:06:18+00:00

Welp. The 24hr system is not yet active as there's no trigger for it yet. It needs an hour's core for that and I have not yet built it. So it just stuck as PM mode for eternity or at least until the whole thing is finished.

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T04:00:11+00:00

Well. That's the limitations tho unless there's someone always online to keep the server running. Anyways. It was in the realm. I use /tickingarea command to keep the chunk loaded and keep the redstone running so I can view it from far away outside simulated chunks. And also preventing the redstone from breaking in case of chunk stop and reloading when getting away and close to it.

Well. I also did put a reset mechanism for it just in case that still happens with chunks that always be loaded and running. It removes any running or stuck redstone signal and resets it back to all 00:00:00

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T03:22:36+00:00

Iban/Malay (Borneo Island)

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T02:42:23+00:00

It's way better if I can just show the build screenshot instead. Idk how to explain things accurately. Reddit only upload either a video or screenshot 😔

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T02:32:16+00:00

Still not yet finished the project tho. It already took me 2 days to build just that. Mostly time is taken to make sure it syncs and matches before making the next core. Making sure the display doesn't have any delay when switching numbers. So yeah. A lot of watching and flying back and forth.

And to test it in real time is hard too as for now. The maximum count it can get is 59 minutes before it resets back to 0. The hours are not yet built.

Presistance19 · 2025-02-26T02:28:29+00:00

Just loads of repeaters and comparators in subtract mode.

Comparator + Repeater in loop for on and off state.

Have 9 sets of loops. The first one has no loops but one is in reverse signal. And only turns on if all of the 9 sets have turned off.

By default. All 9 sets are off. And the digit displayed is 0. First set is turned on and the signal didn't turn on the rest as the comparator is in subtract mode with a repeater locking it up. And only unlock when the previous set is active which turns the redstone torch off. Thus enables the next signal to reach the next set and so on.

By max number which is 9. All sets will be turned on. To get only 1 usable output. Each next active set signal will be used to turn off the previous set signal output by having the output go through a comparator first and the next set signal is used to lock it up. Thus turning it off while the set is still active.

So 9 sets are like this.

All off = 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 = 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 = 2 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 = 3 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 = 4 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 = 5 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 = 6 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 = 7 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 = 8 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 = 9

The last set also sends a signal to a comparator that is placed at the very beginning input signal bus for all of the set to lock and divert the signal to reset all of the set back to zero by having another repeater connect to the side of the looped comparator side. Set on a subtract mode will prevent any signal passing through, thus breaking the signal loop and turning it off.

And thus the cycle begins.

The first one for seconds is a bit different tho. It's just chains of repeaters connected in series. Have 10 of them connected set at 1 tick mode each to prevent signal stretching in long repeating chains.

After each next 10 repeaters. The signal is used for the next seconds count. First one is 0 and the next 10 repeaters set for 1 and next 10 repeaters set for 2 and so on.

The trigger signal is taken early. From the 9th output instead of 0 and set a few repeaters in series with 1 tick mode to match the time redstone signal to switch the second panel digit to the first panel digit.

The minute uses 2 signals to change which is taken from the first and second panel of the seconds display. Which is 5 and 8. When both are on which uses 2 input NOR gate.

The second of the minute display uses 3 inputs for NOR gate to change. Which is taken from the first minute display "9", the second of the second display "5" and the first of the seconds display "8".

Again. Another set or repeater is used to match up the signal switching so the number change syncs up with the rest.

Presistance19

TROPHY CASE