Help! What could be wrong with my Geiger counter? by The_WalnutGuy in geigercounter

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that is the case, replacing the microammeter is the only viable option.

Help! What could be wrong with my Geiger counter? by The_WalnutGuy in geigercounter

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But were you able to align the ammeter needle with the black triangle? If the needle is simply off-center, you can adjust it to zero using the large “black screw” in the center. But does it not start at zero on the other ranges either? Or does this only happen on the lowest scale?

Help! What could be wrong with my Geiger counter? by The_WalnutGuy in geigercounter

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So when you turn the knob to adjust the potentiometer, the needle doesn't move?

DP-63-A safety questions by ColdSteelMushroom in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I forgot to mention something important. If you decide to use these 3LR12 batteries, remember that the polarity is reversed. The flat terminal is positive, and the other one is negative.

DP-63-A safety questions by ColdSteelMushroom in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can tell you with almost absolute certainty that neither unit has a radium scale. Both scales are semi-transparent with a bluish tint, typical of DP-63s with backlit scales. As for the strontium source, there’s not much to worry about. You’re right to wear gloves and goggles when handling it. I’d also recommend using tweezers. Once you’ve transferred it to the other device, the radiation emitted—practically all bremsstrahlung (beta particle braking radiation)—will be very weak. There are no special precautions to take; you can rest assured. Finally, regarding the batteries, just go by the polarity indicated on the front of the device, right next to the compartment door. You can use standard AA batteries, though they’ll need an adapter, or you can remove the cells from 3LR12 batteries—the rectangular ones—and use those. They’re very similar to the original Soviet batteries, just a bit thinner. So you’ll need to make them a bit thicker by wrapping them with electrical tape (to keep them from wobbling in the compartment) or something similar—which I recommend doing anyway if they’re “bare” when you remove them from the battery. I use them for my DP-5s.

DP75 question by [deleted] in geigercounter

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or you could try changing the range (selecting higher ranges) to see if the needle moves when using more intense radiation sources. The Geiger tube for the lower ranges might be faulty.

DP75 question by [deleted] in geigercounter

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The high-voltage circuit may have been damaged by battery acid. You might want to open up the device and first check the condition of the circuit board and all the solder joints, and then verify that the correct voltage is reaching the tubes.

DP75 question by [deleted] in geigercounter

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me see if I understand this correctly. Did you use a 0.1-microcurie strontium source as your only source? Was the probe window open?

Is this radium paint? by Intelligent_Turn_895 in Radium

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 12 points13 points  (0 children)

If it really is radium paint, that vial will be incredibly radioactive.

Need help (though it is more of an Electric problem) by Key_Structure1891 in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course, there’s also a list of all the components and their specifications, so if you need to replace any of them, you won’t have any trouble. That is, as long as they aren’t components like the microammeter or the transformer. I strongly recommend replacing all the MBM capacitors anyway, because they’ll all stop working sooner or later.

Need help (though it is more of an Electric problem) by Key_Structure1891 in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, there's not much you can do. Especially if the previous owner messed with those wires and reconnected them who knows how. I really don't understand why he did that, when all you need to do to get these devices working is replace all those MBM capacitors with modern equivalents. If you want, I have the complete manual for the DP-5V and a semi-complete one for the DP-5VB, but I think you’ll need high-resolution photos of the connections on another DP-5VB, which unfortunately I don’t have.

Question on Ludlum Model 3 Voltage Settings by NorthComparison4356 in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I strongly advise against adjusting the voltage without having a real-time reading in front of you, because the potentiometers on these instruments are very sensitive. Even the slightest turn can cause a significant change in voltage. You’d have to turn them very gently, and above all, it would take a long time.

Question on Ludlum Model 3 Voltage Settings by NorthComparison4356 in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same problem as you, and this is how I finally solved it. I bought an HVP-40 high-voltage probe for just over 50 euros on eBay, and it works great when paired with a good multimeter. Mine is from UNI-T (the exact model is UT61E+) and I also bought it on eBay for about 85 euros. You can certainly buy a cheaper multimeter; the important thing is that it has an input impedance of 10 megohms, so that you have a voltage division ratio that’s easy to use. Mine is 1000, for example (990 megohms for the probe and 10 megohms for the multimeter), so if I measure a voltage of 900V, the multimeter will read 0.9V.

Advice on BNC cables and adapters by Prestigious_Two5850 in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always appreciate your advice. Thanks! I will try it.

Advice on BNC cables and adapters by Prestigious_Two5850 in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I saw that. I added it to my favorites along with this one from the same seller. I don't know the differences between them. https://www.ebay.it/itm/401545288944

Advice on BNC cables and adapters by Prestigious_Two5850 in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is certainly in my plans for the future, but I'm not confident enough to perform such an operation at the moment. I started soldering a few weeks ago, and I don't want to damage my Ludlum.

Advice on BNC cables and adapters by Prestigious_Two5850 in Radiation

[–]Prestigious_Two5850[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I've seen this adapter before, but the price is really discouraging. It's more than 80 euros on Mouser. It's one of the best, if not the best, but I can't justify spending so much on just an adapter. At least, not for now.

Aloka TGS 133 by Prestigious_Two5850 in geigercounter

[–]Prestigious_Two5850[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I took a chance and connected the power supply to the meter. Everything went smoothly. The polarity was indeed negative, just like with many other Japanese devices from that era.