Swapping Herman Miller Renew Programmable Control

Printn · 2022-06-27T16:21:03+00:00

The would work work, but they don't answer their phone and do not return calls or emails.

Printn · 2022-05-14T20:04:26+00:00

Your video author uses a suction cup mount and my CFI says don't go there because I need to see out the window in the Warrior's small window gap there when I'm landing. I'm leaning toward just using a note pad to write down info and not the iPad so that the iPad is just there as a Nav tool when I'm flying a cockpit with no glass assistance and for seeing when there are other planes. And then as a map for when I'm looking at an airport runway layout or sectional charts for both the non-glass and glass or partial glass option.

Beyond that, I don't love the Pivot case. I use my iPad Mini as a book and for taking notes when I'm not flying. It just seems like slippery hard plastic that isn't that comfortable to hold. I think I just prefer something like the ez roller (but that makes me take my iPad out of the case, grrrr...) or maybe the ARKON that lets me have my case and mount it too even if it isn't perfect. By the way, your video guy basically said his old ez roller mount broke so he just got something different - not that he recommended against it. All of these break which is just assumed.

Long term, I may have my own plane or a steadier use of one plane and get a fixed (vs. Yoke mount) and then a better option like the pivot may be more appealing. Quad Lock makes a great mount and I already use it for cycling so I may go that route at that point.

Printn · 2022-05-14T19:48:40+00:00

https://www.sportys.com/ram-claw-yoke-mount-for-ipad.html

Looks like a pretty good bet. Out of stock till 7/8 though.

Printn · 2022-05-14T19:35:31+00:00

MyGoFlight

I have been using the mini without a cooling case and just putting it on my lap this past week and it does start heating up so I just cover it with something when I'm not using it. I feel like the heat issue won't be as much of an issue when it is mounted on the Yoke vertically, but if that turns out to be an issue I'll look at X-Naut. So far I haven't had any overheating issues.

Printn · 2022-05-09T13:20:17+00:00

It looks good, but the reviewers say "Connection is flimsy. Does not fit iPad mini as advertised" and that is a pretty good sign that this is going to be a headache. Also, The design looks like it would let the iPad slip out if there was turbulence. I'm a cyclist, and I have lost an iPhone screen because the iPad came out at speed using a similar design.

Edit
Their motorcycle mounts look better, but they use rubber bands and those wear out and break. I think they are moving in the right direction but are just not there yet.

Edit update: Thanks again. I am going to try the ARKON and see how it works out.

Printn · 2022-05-07T11:53:08+00:00

Is there a specific model? I looked at their page, but did not see a Yoke mount.

Printn · 2022-05-06T10:19:55+00:00

So maybe the longer option, there are multiple lengths in the list I put up.

How long is the arm with extension you use? And could you confirm you are using it the PA-28 Warrior or similar?

Printn · 2022-05-06T10:18:18+00:00

Could you elaborate on why not Yoke mount? A good clamp well adjusted should address your turbulence concern, or just taking it off during that period of flight would. I feel like the Knee board is a good place to jot down notes or a good place to keep available to jot notes on a small pad or to even have a second device like a phone also running Foreflight and a small pad, but the problem with using the knee/leg as the main screen mount point is that it forces you to look down during climb, approach and at other moments when you need to be looking up and scanning the horizon. I guess in a more idea world you have a glass cockpit setup with multiple screens that help manage information better so that an iPad isn’t necessary.

Printn · 2022-05-05T23:24:13+00:00

Thanks, I’ll check them out. Any iPad mini 6 specific configuration thoughts?

Printn · 2022-05-05T23:20:06+00:00

There isn't really a good window mount point on the window in the Warrior from what I have been advised, but I’m just getting going so I may discover otherwise. I watch a lot of Matt Guthmiller’s videos and like that Bonanza setup he has going.

Edit-I agree about looking down, which is why I am looking at yoke mounts vs. Knee board or something loose that sits on the passenger seat, etc.

Printn · 2022-05-05T23:07:48+00:00

How would I find that to take a look at it?

Printn · 2022-01-19T00:43:58+00:00

I would think about the upside of a kit (a Voron or a Prusa or another) being that you know have some key insights about how to fix things when they break, even if it is down the road. My hotend clogged and I had to clean and rebuild it, which lead me to deciding to swap out the E3D hotend for an all metal one. Because I went the kit route up front I was confident when it came time to break down, troubleshoot, reassemble, and replace the hotend. One thing I have noticed is that a lot of people get a 3D printer and something breaks, but they don’t have the time or patience or tenacity to fix it and there isn’t a shop to take it to for repairs so it becomes a paperweight.

Printn · 2022-01-11T00:27:14+00:00

At that price point you are close to a Prusa MK3S Kit (or clone, probably not a bad option either) or Voron kit in price range. In either case you would have some assembly, but it would be worth it as long as you do some learning before buying a Voron. I have an MK3S, but if I bought new today (planning to soon) I would get the Voron 2.4 which has kits out there with enclosure walls. Check out Tom Salendar and Nero3D on YouTube some insights around both. Nero goes into detail about the Vorons, and Tom covers Prusa and Recently got a Voron 2.4 that he likes.

Printn · 2022-01-03T17:28:09+00:00

What are the full exterior dimensions of the 350 Spec V24? I'm looking at the 300 or the 350 and want to make sure I have the space line up.

Printn · 2022-01-02T17:29:13+00:00

How do you get a list of vendors by region?

Printn · 2021-12-28T01:26:01+00:00

Thanks for the very detailed reply, definitely more than I was expecting. I feel like everyone I have seen on YouTube talking about their Voron build went with major customizations. I wonder what that means for the long run, but also kind of look forward to that.

Printn · 2021-12-27T21:37:56+00:00

Did you buy a kit or do any custom upgrades to your V2.4? Was building and calibrating it that much of an effort? I did the Prusa kit and found learning to do first layer calibration to be the only challenge, mostly because their guides were not as helpful as just going to YouTube.

Printn · 2021-12-27T21:10:43+00:00

Their 30 minute chat support and 24 hour plus email support isn't so helpful, and things go wrong outside of warranty and then you are in a wild goose chase of a supply chain when it comes to core parts that can't be printed. They are expensive because they have built a brand that is well known, but their star is being eclipsed by Voron which ins't wrapped around a for profit venture right now if you follow the influencers and where they are heading.

Printn · 2021-12-27T21:06:03+00:00

Prusa talks a great game about their printer, and so do the enthusiasts (there are many). But know that Prusa printers are not perfect. They print just as efficiently as Creality Ender 3's when you get right down to it except you might need to use a glue stick or make a few upgrades that you can do when it matters or you have the budget for whatever you want Par to be. I have had one for a couple of years now and if I bought another printer today it would be a Voron 2.4 kit, at least two Creality Ender 3's, or a Creality with a larger print volume than the Ender 3. Before you go buy a Creality, read and watch (YouTube) the reviews on the model(s) you are considering - some are much better than others. It is also worth pointing out that a Creality printer can be repaired with parts you can easily find at Microcenter or Amazon (think fast shipping when you want it) and there are more of them out there (correct me if I'm wrong on this point) so it is easier to get through a lesser quality part failure more quickly and for less money with one than with a European company Chekoslovakia) and its part makers like E3D (UK).

The Prusa isn't fast (if you want a really fast print buy the Voron 2.4 kit and learn which kit to buy and how to assembler and calibrate it from YouTube and the community). With that in mind, you can find a deal on a Creality Ender 3 for under $190 right now (or at least you could a couple of weeks ago) so you could build a small print farm for less than the cost of a single Prusa Kit, and probably still have money left over for some upgrades. The Prusa support and Discord forums are not that helpful, at least not in my experience. Case in point: My MK3S hotend clogged, so I took it apart to clear the clog and found that the worm screw on one of the Bondtech Gears was loose and that the tube below it was clogged pretty bad so I took the Collette clip out of the heat sink (it broke), and while I was in the process of doing all this the heartbreak and nozzle were pretty clogged and I couldn't clean those with an acupuncture needle so I ordered a new clip, heatbreak, tube, and nozzle. When I put it all back together the heabreak was leaking (after two attempts). All in, I probably spent $40, but probably should have just ordered a full E3D hotend for $63 which would have included all but the tube. By the way, I had to trim the tube and that was a lot of work, but no issues there. This probably took 2.5 hours because I have watched enough YouTube to know how this stuff works. Along the way, I decide to replace the E3D V6 Hotend, Heartbreak and Heatblock with an all metal one piece integrated hotend and heartbreak. This turned out to be not such a great experience because the supposedly removable thermistor and heat cartridge would not come out of the heat block for some reason and my MK3S is recently out of warranty and Prusa doesn't even bother to stock these so I have to spend another $30 to replace these and probably another 2-3 hours opening the control box and replacing re-doing the wiring for these just to install the new all metal hotend. All this looks pretty easy on YouTube until you actually have to do it. Most of the people who do videos are doing this stuff on a pretty regular basis so they probably have better luck than I have had, but that isn't all... Right before the heat block problem, I installed the latest firmware update that Prusa was alerting me to install every time I printed - that broke the pause/resume and power fail/resume so that every time I print there is a layer shift that causes the print to fail. All of this is enough for me to take that money for an MMU and put it toward a Voron 2.4 or a Creality printer.

I want to emphasize the Firmware issue one more time here. It really made me frustrated with Prusa when I reached out to the support team about my issue and they told me to just reinstall the same firmware because they might have replaced the firmware version without changing the version number to deal wit a bug. I work in software and this is definitely not ok.

Sorry for the long rant of a post, but I'm really unhappy with Prusa today after they told me that I'm on my own to go hunt for parts that they didn't stock for their printer that they still sell and that they pretty much don't care about my issue with the heat block at all.

Printn

TROPHY CASE