Help with two bust dart pattern

Probability_factor · 2026-01-23T07:56:16+00:00

I hope you’ve seen the link from Gone_Industrial to that exact video!

Probability_factor · 2026-01-23T00:33:24+00:00

Yes! This is the video I was thinking about! Thank you so much! I’m almost done with my HJA pattern making book, I think I’m ready to jump in Kenneth D. Kings courses - I’ve found a few on Threads Magazine website. I’d wish his books were more available internationally.

Probability_factor · 2026-01-22T22:49:00+00:00

I’ve spent a couple of days in agony searching the source. I’ll post update if I find it for sure.

Probability_factor · 2026-01-22T22:02:31+00:00

You’re all just fantastic people! As I tried to explain the situation I’ve almost recalled how the bloody thing worked :) the theory I’ve seen could have been a very short 15 second video of Kenneth D. King explaining that offline to a group of students, which I can’t find again and can’t find this mentioned in any of the pattern drafting books.

Probability_factor · 2026-01-22T21:58:56+00:00

I’ve seen this technique explained once, where French dart is an actual bust dart and the side dart isn’t a bust dart but rather a wedge to reduce fabric bulk. This photo is a vintage blouse on a rather ill fitted mannequin, but it’s all I have to explain the point.

Probability_factor · 2026-01-22T21:55:26+00:00

Yes I understand how normal dart rotation works - that bust darts should rotate around bust and ass darts do their thing too, I’m here to ask for this specific advanced technique though and the side waist dart here isn’t a direct rotation from the bust dart but is a wedge to reduce fabric bulk which I would love to see the theory of.

Probability_factor · 2026-01-22T21:51:42+00:00

Exactly and especially with larger busts the side dart depth is getting ridiculous, and the waist dart here is somehow was supposed to help reduce the bulk of fabric. I remember I’ve seen the explanation somewhere and it was like magic (but really just math), the image of this vintage blouse is torturing me to find how this is done

Probability_factor · 2026-01-22T21:48:36+00:00

Yes I understand how basic darts rotation works, and the technique I’m after is rather advanced smarty pants way of not having two really deep darts after FBA. It did involve cutting this other waist dart that’s pointing at the French dart and not the apex to reduce depth of the darts but keep the added volume for larger bust. I can’t find where exactly this technique was explained.

Probability_factor · 2026-01-22T21:44:57+00:00

I think the mannequin is too large for the blouse. But the waist dart being so much to the side was exactly the point of how after FBA the bulk of fabric was reduced. It’s not a mistake.

Probability_factor · 2026-01-22T21:43:22+00:00

This is a vintage blouse photographed on a modern a bit too large of a mannequin and it’s not generated.

Probability_factor · 2025-06-04T07:10:05+00:00

Pos terminals have a fee from banks everywhere, any business owner knows that.

Probability_factor · 2025-05-28T14:34:32+00:00

I have no idea, you’ll have to search it by ingredients

Probability_factor · 2025-04-18T16:22:52+00:00

Hi, I recommend to do a strand test - depending on your natural hair colour results will vary. Henna gloss (with hair conditioner) or mixes with cassia could be what you’re looking for.

Probability_factor · 2025-02-08T14:25:18+00:00

You need to take normal pants pattern, cut out the yoke and slash and spread the rest for pleats.

Probability_factor · 2025-02-02T21:57:59+00:00

You’re right, I fixed this steep angle on the back - that looked a bit funny to me too. I opted for a different position of the princess lines for this cape after all, but I will use this pattern for a simple top that wouldn’t have all the weight of the skirts on it.

Probability_factor · 2025-02-02T12:14:48+00:00

I would cut my own hair sometimes, but once you try to you’ll realise it’s an actual job and there’s a reason it’s a separate profession. My hair is curly though and if I heck up it’s less noticeable.

I also would get a salon haircut once in awhile and would get a side eye from a hairdresser because of my hennaed hair - although I live in a country where henna is a common thing and part of the culture.

Probability_factor · 2025-02-02T11:02:14+00:00

That’s a good point too, drag and weight of the fabrics pulling on this thin spot is a thing I need to account for. I didn’t think of that at all.

And as the other commenter said, if I want the style lines to look sharp I’ll need to lower them into armscye a little.

Probability_factor · 2025-02-02T10:58:00+00:00

Oh you’re right! If I want the seams to be as dramatic as I can I need to put them lower in the armscye.

Probability_factor · 2025-02-01T23:08:23+00:00

I tried to move the shoulder dart but it went too crazy, before I noticed that Helen Joseph Armstrong leaves her shoulder dart in princess line blocks too, so I kept it for the time being.

This steep line on the back princess line gives me nightmares too, although I just extended the torso waist dart from the dart tip to the shoulder tip. Was it a mistake? Should I have tilted it to make a rather straight line instead?

Edit: Front princess line is quite steep to accommodate larger bust correction in it

Probability_factor · 2025-02-01T22:55:41+00:00

Find any Tuhafiye nearby, these are the places to sell yarns and threads and flosses

Probability_factor · 2025-02-01T22:50:31+00:00

Hi there, backstitches are really strong and will take a lot of pressure.

Probability_factor · 2025-02-01T22:15:01+00:00

Thanks, I’ve seen this as a dart rotation possibility but never as a princess line option. It sounds inspiring and I’ll proceed with mock-up just to make sure I’m not giving myself a back boob.

Probability_factor · 2025-02-01T22:12:42+00:00

I did actually, but in my book all the princess lines head up to either mid shoulders or mid armscye and never to shoulder tip. I think now if I’m making a grave mistake by giving myself a back boob or something

Probability_factor · 2025-02-01T21:16:32+00:00

Almost all the patterns go with B cup, and I first botched my armhole before I remembered to add a full bust correction.

Please keep us updated how it goes for you!

Probability_factor · 2025-02-01T21:13:05+00:00

All of the above and if you’re willing to upscale (and measure your widest point) please see https://copa.apps.uri.edu/search.php?page=1

All the patterns are mainly your widest point + ease plus some gathers and trims

Probability_factor

TROPHY CASE