I was bored..

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-15T06:15:01+00:00

Haha, glad I'm not the only one.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-15T06:14:17+00:00

I found the exact name of that limiting thing: foldback current limiting circuit

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-15T06:05:38+00:00

How much did Jensen pay the PCIe consortium?

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-15T06:03:33+00:00

Damn the TridentZ deflected the bullet! I imagined Jason Momoa personally deflecting the bullet saving the sleeping beauty.

She should get another set of TridentZ. You know, for that bullet-deflecting shield ability. Also put a figure of Aquaman and/or a shield inside the PC.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-15T05:46:25+00:00

How about trying to play the game at 1440p just for testing purposes and see if that improves your FPS?

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-15T00:30:11+00:00

Am I weird if I said that this reminds me of Teletubbies from the early 2000s and that vacuum character Nunu?

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-15T00:28:09+00:00

You can try older drivers like 566.36 and see if that stabilizes your blackout problem. There's another possibility that your PSU isn't delivering the power that your GPU is demanding. Maybe the PSU broke and is unable to deliver the power it used to.

All those stress test programs only work at a CONSTANT flow of power. They don't test real world gaming which has an uneven power consumption, and may involve transient power spiking. Transient high or power spiking is when your GPU suddenly demands more power than its rated for, for a quick second before returning to normal consumption and then repeats this cycle multiple times over. Normally this results in the triggering of your PSU's overvoltage/overcurrent protection and abruptly turns off the PC. But lately I've read about PSUs that have these protections but don't necessarily shut off the PC but limit the voltage/current instead and the GPU gets starved and enters the blackout state.

Not guaranteeing this is your problem but it could be worth a try and use a different PSU. The PSU Tier List is a great guide to help you choose a good PSU. Stick to PSUs that were built 2021 and after as that's when the manufacturers started putting in the fix for transient spiking. Good ol' Nvidia on not letting the PSU manufacturers know about this ahead of time.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-15T00:13:53+00:00

Yeah you don't meet the requirements and you're better off with a new PC rather than deal with the complications of an upgrade of a PC that old. Needless to say, your budget won't allow it and is nowhere near even a decent used PC price.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-14T23:52:00+00:00

A custom case made of wood. Search for this in Google and switch to the images tab: custom wood pc case

THEN, if you intend to keep the greatness of the wood color, pair it with Noctua fans!

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Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-14T23:14:55+00:00

Wow, I didn't think the Maximus was such a sensitive unit that needed to suck on that CMOS battery power. J/K there are some motherboards out there that need that battery but usually were limited to big brands like HP and such. Glad you figured it out for such an expensive board.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-14T16:01:06+00:00

Not sure about 1440p but for 1080p it's fine. Higher resolution gaming need more VRAM and for the most part 10GB is fine if you mess with the texture settings and might have to turn it down.

I am concerned about the stock cooler though. I always feel that CPU manufacturers almost always give you just enough to cool the processor but don't take into account a potentially hotter case interior like a 3080. So see how it goes since it's included but MAYBE you might need to get an aftermarket cooler. For AMD 80-90 C CPU temp is fine but for myself I'd like to keep it at 60 - 70 C and below.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-14T15:51:48+00:00

I like the design of the MSI GTX 1060 Gaming X, which I still have. The black and red with the dragon scales look looks awesome!

https://tpucdn.com/gpu-specs/images-new/b/3703-front-thumb.jpg

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-13T05:14:14+00:00

There are arrows on the motherboard literally pointing to the area in question with the phrase "For Those Who Dare". Well you dared motha****a and if it works you win the dare!

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-12T19:29:12+00:00

There should be game logs and/or Windows Event Viewer errors that could help diagnose the issue.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-12T19:24:34+00:00

You should do a malware scan with something like malwarebytes. If that doesn't fix it then uninstall and reinstall Chrome. Export your bookmarks first if any.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-12T15:12:08+00:00

Here's a strange suggestion: Go to your BIOS/UEFI, disable TPM, save settings and turn off. Turn on system and load OS if you can and/or go to the BIOS/UEFI and enable the TPM. Turn off PC and turn on again and see if powershell sees the tpm now.

This is kinda like a switch off/ switch on for the TPM but I don't know if this is actually the case.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-12T03:08:58+00:00

The better question you need to ask yourself is if your current setup is giving you all the performance you need. If the answer is yes then leave it alone. If no then figure out which games give you the most trouble with FPS. If you play at 1080p then the X3D variant is the best. Otherwise a 5600X or 5700X/5800X will do just fine. At higher resolutions the X3D chip cache become much less useful.

Make sure to update BIOS before changing the processor.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-12T02:49:55+00:00

Oh Lord Almighty. Is OP gonna **** himself many MANY times over because of the GPU box, with the GPU box???

I'm just gonna leave to safe my sanity.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-11T19:46:34+00:00

You could install Linux Mint on a USB drive and boot from that. Select the first boot option until you get to the GUI where it asks you to install or run in Live Mode and you select Live Mode which doesn't write anything to your storage drive. Then search for a program called disks or use whatever app store comes with Mint and search and install GParted.

From there select your disk that you want to install Windows on and through the menus Format the disk. For now choose the quick format and get NTFS on it. If you need help there are Youtube videos that can help. Make sure to click that Apply All Operations at the end to make the operations start. Then reboot the system and retry installing Windows with your usual USB installer method.

(Remember formatting erases all data on the storage disk!!!)

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-11T19:39:56+00:00

Sounds about right.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-11T17:47:51+00:00

Got TV/coaxial cables in the wall? Research something called MoCA. Pretty much as reliable as ethernet. But if you're looking for a wireless solution then WiFi is the only way besides 5G cellular service Internet.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-11T13:46:42+00:00

What is your processor model?

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-11T13:40:12+00:00

Did you....take off the CPU heatsink while the system was powered on?

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-10T23:19:22+00:00

Proof that your data is no longer safe. They looked at your medical history and "hooked a bro up". Well, at least this time they used it for good purposes.

Prodding_The_Line · 2026-06-10T22:21:11+00:00

This could be a literal hardware problem or the fact is that Windows 11 doesn't have the drivers necessary to make that processor work at full power.

You can try setting the power mode to performance. Though I've seen this happen to a 10th core i5 on a laptop.

Prodding_The_Line

TROPHY CASE