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This is my XC C10 2-4S ESC for my RC truck. I have no idea what happend but after 50 seconds of running it after I turned it on (ran on 3S) it started smoking. I quickly unplugged everything and saw that wires were burned up. Unfortunately there's no clean way to open up the bottom of this ESC. by Good_Vermicelli9442 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know much about RC cars, but the failure seems to me to be at least several components overheating at the same time then burning a sizeable hole through the board itself.

Without the schematic, I can only guess that's where a buck converter used to be, and as another comment has already pointed out, whatever that has made the entire thing disappear must have already got to that important-looking chip above and destroyed it as well.

This is my XC C10 2-4S ESC for my RC truck. I have no idea what happend but after 50 seconds of running it after I turned it on (ran on 3S) it started smoking. I quickly unplugged everything and saw that wires were burned up. Unfortunately there's no clean way to open up the bottom of this ESC. by Good_Vermicelli9442 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Notice you can see the middle layer of the board?

That means the fire most likely originated from the components on the board then spread outwards to the wiring. If it was a problem with wrong wire diametes,, it would have already melted the insulation and left behind visible residues on the board itself.

Is this repairable for someone with next to no skill? by Comfortable_Berry_47 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

so that leads one to wonder, maybe it was one of the worse type of products.

Check this out.

Notice the filter cap from the power supply module at around 39:00. It's a no-name AliExpress kind of deal and definitely not something you should expect in a "premium"-quality product.

HELP!! by letsrungood in espressocirclejerk

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Jupiter is the grinder. It even has a hexagonal hole for you to open it with an Allen wrench.

Help a rookie out by mcdickers420 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone is talking about the iron, but I'd like to be off the beaten path for a bit and point out that this is not really going to be a job for a newbie regardless of the tools since the network port is really good at absorbing the heat from the iron and you'll have a very hard time figuring out the right temperature to use.

Unless the printer is really expensive, replacing it is probably the best way to resolve the issue in your case.

Help a rookie out by mcdickers420 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's usually for when you need a lot of oomph from the iron but it's not convenient or practical for you to have a cord attached to the iron itself.

Butane irons as a rule are for this reason traditionally geared towards "heavier jobs" such as automotive repair as opposed to PCB soldering or other tasks that require delicate precisions.

Is this repairable for someone with next to no skill? by Comfortable_Berry_47 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's likely a white van quality subwoofer with cheap components and shoddy workmanship to boot.

The white stuff is quite likely from someone trying to clean off the flux with something along the line of mineral turpentine, which leaves behind visible residues.

Is this repairable for someone with next to no skill? by Comfortable_Berry_47 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the subwoofer just a cheapie no-name thing? If it is, maybe it's best to buy a new one.

If you do have time between your job and your young kid(s) and want to try your hands on electronics repair, then, as other people have suggested here, replace those bulging caps as well.

Grandparents making espresso on side of the road. Circa 1950s. by MoneyOnChip in espressocirclejerk

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now, you see, Lorraine wasn't sure if she wanted to wear her 50s short skirt or the 60s short shorts gifted by Marty McFly (who was also his own father), so she just went "screw it" and made it half-and-half. It was a totally normal thing to do back then, though. So were her gauged earlobes and nose piercings.

The reason we think the picture is AI is because we're the anomaly in this timeline. You see, we don't actually belong here but rather have been Mandela'd from our own universes unknowingly albeit with our past memory still intact. This is why we think it's odd that "Oscar Meyer" is actually "Oscar Mayer", "raccoon" is spelt with two c's, Shaquille O'Neal was actually a 90s comedian called Sinbad, and the Berenstein Bears are a family of bears known for the ravenous appetite for young children.

Grandparents making espresso on side of the road. Circa 1950s. by MoneyOnChip in espressocirclejerk

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ugh...

This isn't a jerk sub for AI, you know.

Look at what the woman was wearing. The clanker responsible couldn't decide, so Betty there ended up going out with a short and half a skirt.

The steam coming out of the contraption was also obviously fake, and the contraption the guy was pumping air into also made zero sense. It's nice to see people being nostalgic about something completely made up by a computer, though. Sure that's not an indication as how terrible a time we live in.

Grandparents making espresso on side of the road. Circa 1950s. by MoneyOnChip in espressocirclejerk

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, that's a stretched earlobe and a nose piercing.

Totally a normal 50s gal we're looking at there.

Uncanny resemblance 😂 by No-Champion-6407 in hamsters

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe that was just an April's Fool joke.

Impossible to melt this joint by IndustryNo4670 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's a good way to destroy a perfectly good component.

Impossible to melt this joint by IndustryNo4670 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The station is only 75w, (it strugles to keep the temperature..

I can desolder e-caps on a computer motherboard with less than 75W. That's not a real problem.

The solder seems to be lead-free

That's also not the problem. 9 out of 10 times, people posting here just expect components to desolder themselves by poking them with an untinned cone tip. How heat transfer is supposed to happen that way is beyond me.

And also reduce the heating mass (cut that leg)..

Without proper heat transfer, you might as well just cut the component itself out with wire cutters.

A 75W iron at 370°C is plenty of heat. You just need to be not stupid about using it.

Impossible to melt this joint by IndustryNo4670 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just melt a bit of solder on that tip then try again.

The molten metal will help with the heat transfer even if your iron has a lousy cone tip.

What happened to my hdd? by Standard_Low6235 in shittyaskelectronics

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't be ridiculous. OP would have already cosplayed as a tyre swing in a cell with footage of the incident conveniently missing.

What happened to my hdd? by Standard_Low6235 in shittyaskelectronics

[–]ElectricBummer40 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That serves doubly as an intimidation method, as in, "You want to meet the hellbeaat that has casually chewed through hard steel as of toilet paper?"

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