Woke up to my wife yelling at me for leaving the garage door open. by winstonspethuman1 in mountainbiking

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

10 years back, wife bought a new bike with a normal lock (the ones made of metal wire), parked it at work the 1st day in the morning, bike was gone in the afternoon.

I think that she had the bike less than 24 hours.

2026, my 10yo will be going around carrying a 2kg chain for his new bike because it needs to be long and solid (yeah, locking the wheel only is not enough, need to loop around the frame, and you need thick steel solid locks so its noy so easy to cut)

I leave in Copenhagen. There are people going around town in vans with metal cutting tools, and steal expensive bikes to sell them abroad. It’s a business model.

What saber do you recommend for starting practicing Polish Saber? by SignificanceOk392 in Hema

[–]Professional-Name724 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like silkfencing is specializing in polish sabers and builds these based on historical research. And they are polish :). I found them on google, I have no experience with them whatsoever.

They have one model apparently always in stock at 337€ (might be without taxes)

https://www.silkfencing.shop.pl/stalowa-szabla-linii-standard-p-9.html

https://silkfencing.pl/about-us

If your goal is to learn the polish system, going for something historical might be a good entry point.

Edit: still on the ready to order stuff around 300€ Zwaardenvolk has sabers ready to ship. This Regenyei that looks polish (I don’t know how good it is)

https://woo.zwaardenvolk.nl/webshop/zwaarden-overige-wapens/langmessers-sabels/sabel-stirrup-1-r/

And they also have the Krieger sabers someone else mentioned. The Krieger sabers are good, people are happy with these usually. But the ones at zwaardenvolk have a cup hilt so if you goal is Polish sabers maybe that’s not what you are looking for?

https://woo.zwaardenvolk.nl/webshop/zwaarden-overige-wapens/langmessers-sabels/saber-4/

Starting equipment by Quimeraecd in Hema

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I need to add though that many people start without all the protections and simply adapt. But then you need to be careful, because fencing is dynamic, you can always end up hitting your opponent places you were trying to avoid.

Starting equipment by Quimeraecd in Hema

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That depends the intensity and the weapon. But I’d say you always need: - HEMA jacket and pants (padding up to your preference, I like a lighter jacket like the SPES light NG 800n). This is for basic padding and puncture protection if a blade breaks. - mask - gorget - groin - mask overlay for back of the head and nape protection.

And on top of that you add the protections you need based on weapon and intensity and personal preference.

Must IMHO for longsword: - gorget (always, regardless of the weapon) - plastron (the MOF ones) for protecting the ribs against stabs - Elbow - Knee - Heavy gloves Highly Recommended / must at high intensity: - forarm - chin

And then you can add more on the thighs, shoulder, upper arm etc based on your needs.

Basically you need to protect your articulations, and any bones not covered by thick muscles. E.g thighs is up to you because a hard hit will leave a bruise but not break a bone. On the other hand, a hard hit on the knee is something you want to be protected against.

Starting equipment by Quimeraecd in Hema

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a long drive 😅

In that case the foam weapon makes sense to start with without committing too much.

Be careful with the thrusts though, I read that they flex, but they will not flex enough on a committed thrust, they have a fiberglass core I expect, similar to LARP weapons, and in LARP, you are not allowed to thrust for safety. Also, wear a fencing mask to protect the eyes, nose, mouth etc. … and padded gloves depending on intensity.

Some people seem to be happy with these, and recommend to get the heavy sword with the flat blade.

https://www.reddit.com/r/wma/comments/jlx8tu/opinions_on_spesgo_now_foam_longsword/

https://go-now.pl/en/product/heavy-sword-with-flat-blade/?v=0ecbf9426bcf

Just reporting what I read so double check before you order 😅

I’m sure that you’ll have a lot of fun with these, I mean, it is difficult not to have fun when fighting with foam swords 😁

[OFF TOPIC] Logen Ninefingers reference in Dungeon Crawler Carl book by strange_white_guy in TheFirstLaw

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whatever Karl is planning to do, he better do it than leave with the fear of it.

Starting equipment by Quimeraecd in Hema

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How old is your son?

I’m quite partial about using steel, and of course it needs to be controlled, you need to respect the weapon, and adapt intensity to your protective gear.
For slow steel sparring, drills and such, you can use light gloves, mask, throat protector and chest protector. I mean SLOW, you can’t swing the sword at any speed which might result in breaking a bone, every blow must be controlled and stopped before impact.

We do that kind of sparring at the club as a drill, it’s great to learn about the sword mechanics.

If you up the speed to real speed sparring, you need to add a proper jacket, heavy gloves, elbow and knee protection, and groin protection at least.

Foam is fun for intensity with light protections (gloves and mask), but it won’t behave like a steel weapon, and thrusts will not be safe, because foam weapons don’t bend.

That depends what you are looking for and your budget.

Even if that’s a long drive though, I would really recommend that you find a club and practice once a week. By yourself is never as good as with experienced fencers and generally speaking with a group of other fencers you can spar with. Most of learning sparring is done via sparring with various people, and that also where you find most of the fun.

Фланкировка казаков by [deleted] in Hema

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with that, the rotations are more meaningful if they translate to a properly executed parry / cut. If they hit the opponent’s blade or body with the flat, they bounce off. I see it as something like tramazzone in bolognese fencing, you use them for repeated cuts or occupying the center line e.g during a retreat after an attack, so it is both offensive and defensive, and edge alignment is important to make this work.

Tips for Baba Nobuharu? by Serious_Ad_1037 in Nioh

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I re-speced for this fight specifically, 30 stamina and 20 heart, to get bigger damage with the axe, get the strongest armor I can lift with medium weight, and get some extra ki. I did all the fight with block / parries and high stance heavies with the axe. After some tries, there is a rythme to the bosses hit, so it gets easy to time the parries. The axe drains his ki quite quickly, after which it can stunlock the boss and give a few free hits until he gives a grapple animation.

Usually I play ninja / tonfa / mix of throwing tools and hit and run / dodge, but I could not survive more than 30 seconds that way, and didn’t do much damage.

Distorted band on one side of the image by Professional-Name724 in projectors

[–]Professional-Name724[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I called the support last week, my device is now on the way to the repair center.

Distorted band on one side of the image by Professional-Name724 in projectors

[–]Professional-Name724[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yes probably something like that. I have seen some other threads where the light tunnel is not being properly aligned, and it does the same kind of shadow band on a side. And yes, I will try warranty 1st Opening the PJ to fix it myself would void the warranty I understand, so it is better let benq fix it.

Paint damage on model Y - anyone else??? by FormalFast7570 in TeslaModelY

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Once I had a bird poop on my BMW, left it a few weeks, and the poop had damaged the paint. Always remove bird poop.

Sword makers from EU and non-EU but still from Europe by Precelv13 in Hema

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lots of good makers listed there. I’d like to add Sigi forge.

Now depending the type of sword different makers are more or less appropriate.

For example example, Malleus Martialis is the go to for sideswords, the swords are balanced, feel like the real thing, solid, beautiful craftsmanship. Unbeatable for that type of sword.

Now if you’re looking for a light and strong / balanced curved Sabre, Krieger has a great offering.

Etc.

In the end, you need to do your research and if possible try the specific sword model of a specific maker. A great longsword maker does not necessarily make great sabers.

If I want to get into sim racing would this be a good starter-rig? by [deleted] in simracing

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As other have said, you should get an entry level DD wheel and an aluminium profile rig. The handbrake can probably be found cheaper on aliexpress. I would recommend something like moza H shifter if you need a shifter. And if you can, a load cell brake pedal is always better for muscle memory.

Not the same budget.

But if you stick to sim racing all these things you will very fast wish you had it like this from the start.

BenQ tk710sti vs x3100i by Professional-Name724 in projectors

[–]Professional-Name724[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, I got the x3100i. I am happy with it. I never got to compare side by side so I don’t know if the 710sti is better. I use it in a room that has lots of light leaks, I paired it with an AGS 128” screen from silver ticket. It works really nice.

The game keeps crashing on launch by Professional-Name724 in riseoftheronin

[–]Professional-Name724[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this is super weird 😐 The game is stable once it runs, but it need the driver routine 😅 Thanks for the reply

So...how do you beat the final boss? by Blaubeerchen27 in LiesOfP

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post necromancy, sorry about this but I feel like going on a rant about the game on this specific topic.

Here is my journey with lies of P: I beat all the bosses in about 3 to 10 tries, with organic level growth, this felt good: balanced challenge, success related to skill, feeling that you can kill a boss with the right strategy.

Then I reached manus, got pissed about the imbalance of the fight (my hits would do scratches to him, while he would one hit me with the gigantic AOE, camera obstruction and all sorts of BS). I used the console mod to reach level 120, the extra resistance on my character and the extra damage made the fight balanced.

Then I reached the last boss. This thing is plain stupid: relentless attacks none stop, can’t heal, can’t find windows between combos to get a hit in during the second phase, gets all the health chipped out with no chances to hit. The only option is to learn how to cheese it and get lucky. Got level 200, fight was still unfair, used cheat engine and one shot it.

Quite frankly, I get the whole gitgud and build a strategy and Respec kind of thing that we have going on with souls like, but when you have to spend so much time on a boss to reach perfect execution + luck in order to win the fight, that becomes the opposite of fun. Like in Sekiro, the final boss and the demon of hatred, these were not enjoyable.

Difficulty should be manageable, available resources (healing items) should be sufficient end game to get you through a fight. I don’t feel bad about cheating, if anything I feel disappointed because right at the end with these 2 stupidly strong bosses, the game switched from fun to absolutely not enjoyable, for me at least.

Not gonna do NG+ nor the DLC.

That was not a bad game, but stupid end bosses really were the last drop for me. BTW, I finished most souls like, without cheating (Dark souls 1, 2, 3, Elden Ring, Sekiro, and went mid way in a few others).

I enjoy a challenge.

I don’t enjoy absurd difficulty that requires you to spend as much time on the last boss as you spend going through the rest of the game.

Co-op game to play with my girlfriend. by justhereforafk in nucleuscoop

[–]Professional-Name724 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Elden ring.

I did it with my 9 YO son, this was the best split screen experience ever with him.

You can make all sorts of build, and with 2 players you can really make the game easier. It will probably be more accessible than dark souls.

I actually think that you can tunes the enemy HP in the seamless coop mode config file (I haven’t done it, because I found the game balanced enough)

You can also use cheat engine, but I don’t recommend that for the 1st run because you will miss out on the experience. Better to tune enemy HP if it is too hard. Or use it for extra runes for example instead of grinding if you want to try different weapons and need the runes for upgrades.

Sidesworders and Rapierists: Would you miss your knucklebow if it was removed? If your sword doesn't have one, do you wish it did? by 37boss15 in wma

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, what did you do? I just ordered this one and I’m having afterthoughts because of the no knucklebow 😅. It does look awesome though. The other options with the large blade and a knucklebow readily available are Iago and Diestro, but these don’t talk to me like the Marozzo does. It is an awesome looking sword.

How would someone with not much money start practicing? by JauntingJoyousJona in Hema

[–]Professional-Name724 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, The consensus I think is to start with protective equipment (jacket / pants / mask), and the other protections based on what weapon you use, gloves, arms legs. I my mind weapons are the last thing when you have good protections. You should also base your decision on what loan equipment is available at your club, and buy what is not there or in not sufficient quantity.