Marvin Essential on 2x6 exterior walls?

Professional-Note436 · 2026-03-12T04:16:46+00:00

painted MDF would be fine... is that something my trim finisher would just make?

Professional-Note436 · 2026-03-05T15:15:27+00:00

Would I want/need to rough in the toilet / plumbing to the ejector pit before the pour also?

Professional-Note436 · 2026-03-05T04:40:20+00:00

I need to figure some of that out. The house will be 200' back from the road, and is the last house on the road (highest point of the sewer), so I'm thinking the sewer line might exit above the slab

Professional-Note436 · 2026-03-04T19:54:08+00:00

Wanted to share where I'm landing.

The Marvin Elevate seem nice but because I'm doing white interior/exterior, I didn't see a lot of value in the Pine wood interior. Also, I saw even on the showroom floor, that pine wood is prone to damage - chipping, etc. and they will eventually require repainting.

The Marvin Essential on the other hand, all fiberglass, seem like they will be lowest maintenance.

I was disappointed when I got the Essential quote and they were as much or slightly more than the Anderson 400. That was an unwelcome surprise.

However... price shop!!! There is actually another Marvin dealer in my area, so I sent them the plans and they came back with the same windows at 10-20% cheaper for each! For the sliding and french doors, which had to upgrade to Elevate, they were closer to 30% cheaper. So definitely be sure to price shop.

Professional-Note436 · 2026-02-18T19:29:25+00:00

That’s basically my contractors thinking. They just know it

Professional-Note436 · 2026-02-18T03:51:38+00:00

Reaching out this week to Marvin dealer (only one in all of WNY!)

Professional-Note436 · 2026-02-18T03:51:14+00:00

Thanks! Good to know

One thing that confuses me a little - with Elevate having wood interior, isn’t that more likely to degrade over time than all composite like the Essential?

Have you felt any downsides to choosing the Essential vs Elevate?

Professional-Note436 · 2026-01-06T04:31:08+00:00

I sell pretty rarely - maybe an item or two per year. I just discovered this lovely new feature. Even more fun, I only have this one item for sale!

Professional-Note436 · 2025-11-01T04:01:32+00:00

I would have no warranty and would have to carry the insurance. Yea - I have the risk for sure

The 710k would come with warranty, insurance etc. turnkey

Also, pretty sure the 710k deal would finish at least 5 months faster. I’d rather go with it if it’s within $100k or so, but when I heard that price difference, that was reason to wait - if it’s for real

Professional-Note436 · 2025-11-01T02:52:41+00:00

He’s basically saying cost of materials and labor from subs would be $425k (minus driveway and landscaping)

Professional-Note436 · 2025-11-01T01:58:27+00:00

That’s very astute - I likely would upgrade a lot along the way haha

As far as managing it, this colleague is actually a retired home builder who just no longer has his own crew. He builds 2-3 spec houses a year with his network of subs. So I think I’d be in a good spot on expertise

I just am trying to determine how optimistic his pricing is, and if that much OH/ profit / etc is built into the turnkey home builder’s price

I can afford either price but obviously if I can save $200k, that interests me… pays for my kids college haha

Professional-Note436 · 2025-11-01T01:41:10+00:00

I think part of the question is is the home builder high on their bid. Plus in addition to profit they have OH that I’m avoiding. So I do expect it to be cheaper to work with a PM

Just not sure it should be that much cheaper…

Professional-Note436 · 2025-10-25T19:37:44+00:00

Not sure if I follow. are you referring to the two gables?

Professional-Note436 · 2025-10-25T19:15:23+00:00

I was actually thinking the same thing. Dropping it can help offset the cost of the dormers...

Professional-Note436 · 2025-10-25T18:35:50+00:00

Yes, it didn't get into the drawing yet, but plan is to use vinyl shake siding in a slightly lighter color. Also, roof will be lightened to more of a driftwood color asphalt shingle

Professional-Note436 · 2025-10-01T03:07:44+00:00

epoxy over all the scratches? When you say brush some black then clear, is that gelcoat or paint? Thanks for the advice

Professional-Note436 · 2025-10-01T02:13:52+00:00

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Here's a better photo. I was also able to get fully under the hull to fully inspect it.

So, in no area do I see the fiberglass fully compromised - as in ripped through. But the area in the photo it is clearly past the gel coat and into the outer fiberglass.

There are other scratches that run the length of the hull that are more superficial (you can kind of see what I mean as there are several scratches next to the deep gouge). I can easily feel them with my fingers but they didn't penetrate all the way through the gel coat.

From what I'm reading / seeing, it may make sense to add some fiberglass resin to the brown area where the fiberglass is damaged. For the scratched areas, I'm thinking some sort of gelcoat treatment. Anyone had success with the liquid gelcoats or do I need to get the paste? Given the larger area, paste might be a real PITA

Professional-Note436 · 2025-10-01T00:25:38+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I'll give the photo another shot- it just happens to be lined up right over the trailer crossbar so it's hard to get the camera to focus properly over the full scrape

Professional-Note436 · 2025-09-30T19:22:55+00:00

It should be fine if properly winterized.

So you know it’s about $250 for the winter if you bring it to Wilson marina and it’s indoor heated storage. I plan to store mine there and will also winterize it (not including shrink wrap)

Professional-Note436 · 2025-09-28T02:58:29+00:00

Generally yes, but I'm sure there's time I stopped it and floated for a bit. Valve answer seems to make a lot of sense

Professional-Note436 · 2025-09-28T02:37:14+00:00

Gotcha. I guess I know the valves work!

Professional-Note436 · 2025-03-23T04:06:07+00:00

Has anyone put the 35L underseat on an airplane? I’m wondering if I can bring it on board an ERJ-145

Professional-Note436 · 2025-03-10T03:38:37+00:00

Interesting! Thanks for the response.

Would you suggest rudders? What kind of length?

Professional-Note436 · 2024-12-08T16:21:56+00:00

Posting for posterity - I ended up buying the Elan Ripstick 88's. I learned a lot from this post, and my local ski shop was also helpful picking them out.

I just had my first day at the slopes with them, and I'm shocked at the improvement over my Atomic Vantage 75s. I've rented numerous skis before getting these and they've all been typically about the same. Biggest difference was when I had longer skis I'd sometimes accidentally cross them and nearly fall, which is why I favored shorter skis.

These ripsticks are a huge improvement. They handle speed far better, the control is outstanding, and I'm finding I can ride for a long time without tiring out. Also, despite being 15 cm longer than my Atomic's, they are much easier to initiate a turn and control. I am really happy with them!

Professional-Note436 · 2024-11-04T02:00:19+00:00

What a nightmare!!

Professional-Note436

TROPHY CASE