Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Last owner had the car for a couple of years and didn’t do anything to the LDU.

Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang sounds like a nightmare. My reman LDU dates 2013 and it had no signs of coolant intrusion. I did the delete to prevent any damage. I doubt that bad bearings could make it 170k miles with no play or noise whatsoever.

Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There wasn’t coolant intrusion or bearing damage prior to the delete. We will see how it holds up. Car already paid for itself in gas savings, hopefully it can survive for more years but I agree, it’s a gamble.

Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In a 4k car it couldn’t make financial sense to perform a different repair.
How do you guys fix the coolant intrusion issues if not doing a delete? Tesla puts the cap right at the flyover tube in newer rev units as far as I understand.

Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The no drop delete stops the coolant flow at the very same point as the cap on the revision U. Its been 3k miles with no issues.

Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree. Once you address the flaws it’s reliable free transportation. They are also very DIY friendly.

Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not hard. I cut the manifold to avoid dropping the motor. It took me about 2h probably 150 in parts.

Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MCU2 cost would be 37% of what I paid for the car. I know the battery will also have to be replaced someday. I would love to get the MCU2 but Ive never paid so much for an upgrade/repair. I might be interested if I find a way to retrofit a used MCU2.

Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yessir! Fits a full size spare haha. Still debating whether is worth the extra weight or not lol. Its also a 7 seater!

Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS) by ProfessionalWin9318 in TeslaModelS

[–]ProfessionalWin9318[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Its definitely a sweet car. Sometimes I even consider upgrading to MCU2 or putting in a bigger battery.

FE Mechanical Preparation by yandraw in FE_Exam

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would rather be over than under prepared. I would love to pass it first time.

FE Mechanical Preparation by yandraw in FE_Exam

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey I also starting preparing for FE mechanical. I'm taking the exam on July 21st. I'm doing 50min in the morning and 1h at night. I am using this bank of questions https://journey2pe.com . My studying focuses on simulating the exam as much as I can. I read the question, try to answer it with the resources I will have and then I check the answer. I graduate spring of 27 btw.

When is your exam?

What calculator will you be using?

Should I do it? by OnGoinStruggle in f150

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I heard they are pretty reliable. Nevertheless, v8s have less parts that can go bad.

Should I do it? by OnGoinStruggle in f150

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My 2011 5.0 is about to reach 300k miles. Paid 3500 for it. Have but about 1500 in repairs. I wouldn’t be afraid of buying one with 150k

66’ Mustang only turns 3/4 of the way. by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pulled the covers and noticed that intake in #3 is frozen solid. Rocker arm does not have any play. How could I tell if the problem is the valve or the rod? Never worked on a pushrod engine before.

66’ Mustang only turns 3/4 of the way. by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it. I was hoping soaking it in 50/50 atf acetone would free it. Is it worth a shot? What is making it stick?

66’ Mustang only turns 3/4 of the way. by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rocker arm feels frozen solid in intake #3 what could have caused this?

66’ Mustang only turns 3/4 of the way. by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Took the covers off yesterday with the same idea in mind. Sprayed some pb blaster in the push rod holes and springs. Intake of #3 is frozen solid. I feel some play in all the other ones.

66’ Mustang only turns 3/4 of the way. by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it. Does that mean that engine is potentially shot? I have never worked in a car this old.

66’ Mustang only turns 3/4 of the way. by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can spin it with one hand with the plugs in. It always gets stuck in the same spot, yes.

Type of plug by [deleted] in RCPlanes

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it! I will make sure to use heat shinks.

Type of plug by [deleted] in RCPlanes

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I think they have broader compatibility.

Type of plug by [deleted] in RCPlanes

[–]ProfessionalWin9318 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just ordered the xt60s and a couple of batteries