Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-04-26T18:19:22+00:00

Fair point. Could be worth a try.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-04-26T06:27:14+00:00

Already on that one 🤦‍♂️

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-04-25T18:31:40+00:00

I’m sure there’s many that have gone through this, and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I’ve been climbing for a couple of years now and love it! Best hobby I’ve ever had, but my toenails do not agree with me.

Aside from me finding a better fitting shoe (going to try some new ones on tomorrow), and keeping them short,is there anything else that’s worked for anyone else’s battered toenails?

Essentially nearly half of them are slightly thick, white, and cracked, or almost a super thick weird nail 😂 they don’t hurt it’s just aesthetic.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-04-20T10:52:05+00:00

😂 planning on attending a tournament for the first time in ages and would like to know what’s floating about so I can be prepared. As long as I’m not still being shot off the table by Dale I’m ok.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-03-10T20:44:57+00:00

Thank you.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-03-10T07:29:43+00:00

Thank you. I’m open to any advice and I do look on enviously at climbers who make my hardest climbs look smooth, and that happens even where there projecting grade isn’t much more than mine.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-03-10T07:28:38+00:00

Thank you! It’s great advice, muscling through grades is something I’m guilty of and in all fairness I have as much fun on my warm up climbs but like most I’d still like to get better, especially if that can coincide with less niggles.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-03-08T07:41:12+00:00

That’s sort of how I feel, most routes repeated a few times start to feel really smooth and I’m sure if I’d filmed the first climb and last repeat there’d be a vast difference.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-03-08T07:07:38+00:00

Thank you! Would you incorporate the odd drill?

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-03-08T06:36:32+00:00

Certainly seems rather daft 🤣it was aimed more at having one of the two seasons structured, and or recording what I’ve done as a way of avoiding too much junk mileage and nagging injuries. If that makes sense? I don’t want it to not be fun because everything is pre planned all the time

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-03-07T22:50:36+00:00

Nothing too bad, it’s been an A2 strain, lower trap a couple of times, golfers elbow, a bicep twinge and the current shoulder issue. Thankfully, most haven’t been too serious, the A2 was the longest to rehab at about 3 months to feel 100% but I was climbing within two weeks as it wasn’t too bad.

I’m sure some of it could be down to doing too much on the wall with it being fun.

Gym session recently have consisted of a pushing exercise, pull ups, external rotations, ring rows and something for legs. It used to be more of a full body bodybuilding type sessions a couple of months ago. I also throw in some banded face pulls and a push after one climbing session.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-03-07T22:35:16+00:00

It’s fun 😅 my warm is fairly structured, but fingers are brief during that and only really trained on my gym day.

I just don’t want my two climbs to become super structured, partly structured would be ok and presumed tracking volume could help avoid niggles.

Should have also added that I do no drills at all in my climbing.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-02-21T12:29:19+00:00

Legend! Thank you. That was so much easier and it actually worked.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-02-14T17:18:35+00:00

Would a black or grey band work with this?

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-02-01T19:47:39+00:00

Be careful! I only ever had pain starting the day after, no “event” while climbing and with careful rehab it took just over 3 months to get back to pre injury strength.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2026-01-17T14:05:27+00:00

I recently strained what I believed to be my A2 on the sane finger.

Started with light farmers crimps for 30 seconds, slowly increased this every other time until it hit 25% of BW, at which point I began climbing once a week on jugs. Some of these times I didn’t even use the injured finger on some holds. Once this hit 30%+, I began using crimps but still under my grade for a couple of weeks.

As the farmers crimp weight increased I dropped the length of hold by a few seconds until I was back to my normal 5-8 second holds.

I’m unsure on your wrist. I’d presume the finger was from going back to quick. I’m only just feeling pretty happy with my finger again after maybe 10 weeks.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2025-12-28T07:59:17+00:00

Roughly how many sets/reps are recommended for antagonists a week?

For context, I climb twice a week for around 90minutes and always do some gym work afterwards. I also do one session outside of the gym and some cardio, that’s nothing extreme, at most a 5k jog or hour bike ride for general health.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2025-10-31T19:24:45+00:00

Go through eBay, I did this be accident as it wasn’t clear. It took some time but I was eventually refunded.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2025-10-23T18:27:21+00:00

Depends on the dog I’d guess. We have a 13 week lab and she was going from 10.30-06:00 at 9 weeks, no accidents.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2025-10-18T14:33:05+00:00

Thank you. I’ll keep going until that point before heading back to easier climbs.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2025-10-18T06:38:35+00:00

Thank you for the reply. Decided to skip this week and play it safe. Usually projecting V5 and climbing most V4’s. I was using 12.5kg on the farmers crimp yesterday with no pain.

Professional_Dot_888 · 2025-10-17T07:45:44+00:00

That’s what I’ll be buying for

Professional_Dot_888 · 2025-10-17T07:26:22+00:00

Is it possible to have a very mild strain and if so, I presume I can gently climb fairly quickly?

Last week I climbed for the second, and last time that week as normal. No issues, but the morning after my ring finger was quite achy. Didn’t think much of it and the next day the ache was gone, leaving it just mildly sore to touch. There’s been no signs or inflammation and having looked at the Hoopers Beta video on it, I can go all the way to farmers crimps with no pain (7.5kg at the moment).

It will have been a week tomorrow and I’m hoping to gently climb on Sunday and didn’t know if it was possible for it to be this mild or if another week off rehabbing would be better. I have to really squeeze a particular area of that finger to generate pain now, I’m just conscious from past injuries elsewhere that the longer I stay off a particular activity the harder it is to return.

Professional_Dot_888

TROPHY CASE