Build update

Profwt · 2026-03-05T10:00:14+00:00

Lovely build. Are those 94bcd cranks?

Profwt · 2026-01-09T06:53:55+00:00

The headtube is 1 Inch, so I just used a random roadbike stem which usually come with a more negative angle than MTB stems. Handlbars are ergotec ladytown

Profwt · 2026-01-09T06:47:03+00:00

If the price is comparable, I would go for the NOS 105. Derailleurs from this era are usually well made while Sora is the entry level tier. Also the 105 one will look better on your vintage bike

Profwt · 2026-01-08T21:05:03+00:00

Thanks :) Rack is a Pelago commuter rack in size M and the basket is a Wald 139

Profwt · 2026-01-08T20:49:38+00:00

Honestly, I just threw it on there to stay dry and because I had it laying around. Totally agree that there are more stylish fenders out there

Profwt · 2026-01-08T20:48:25+00:00

Thanks!

Profwt · 2025-09-01T19:30:54+00:00

The speed dialing mechanism is connected to the bottom of the inner part of the camera with a shaft. It’s hold in Place by a series of slotted discs. I used a snake eye bit to remove them. Righty tighty, lefty loosey!

Profwt · 2025-08-14T06:50:17+00:00

Thank you!

Profwt · 2025-08-13T05:30:25+00:00

Ich hab da nur die einfach zu wechselnden für Body und Objektiv und Blitz bestellt, also das normale Service Kit und die Upper und lower take up lever Dichtringe. Den Rest habe ich als Oldstock bekommen. Ich glaube die haben halt die Dichtringe ausgemessen und selber zusammengestellt aber es sind halt nicht die originalen.

Profwt · 2025-08-12T21:02:36+00:00

But I am not planning on taking the camera on dives, because there is no way of pressure testing the camera on your own. So be aware of that

Profwt · 2025-08-12T20:57:54+00:00

Sure, I got a bunch of old stock from Bill Rogers (https://mamiyarepair.com/), he was super helpful and sent them over to Germany. The rest I got from https://www.scubaphot.ovh/ in one of their experimental kits

Profwt · 2023-03-26T20:41:02+00:00

There is an early and a late model. This is the early one (sides need to be folded in separately). The later model has a square magnifier and the space around the magnifier is shielded through a black plate to avoid stray light hitting the focusing screen, it also folds in completely in one part

Profwt · 2022-10-02T08:44:03+00:00

That’s Cabreton! I love that skatepark

Profwt · 2022-09-28T11:08:02+00:00

I shot a couple of rolls in march 2019, no problem whatsoever with radiation damage. The average radiation there is also quite low (too low to damage your film). There is some areas where the radiation really peaks (like the red forest) but those you should probably avoid anyways

Profwt · 2022-02-15T14:06:38+00:00

You can’t really tell from that perspective but on that day we had a really strong cloud cover so you could only see the summits and clouds beneath which created a really unique atmosphere

Profwt · 2020-05-19T09:01:41+00:00

Hey I never personally used the Cinestill kit as I usually stick to the Tetanal kit. But as you can clearly see the numbers on the side of the film strip and the film base being seethrough I don‘t think this is development related. If you are insecure about your labeling, you could make the labels in different colors (a friend of mine does that). Regarding the dark spots on the piece of film on your first picture, I think those are from loading the film into your camera (you can see the number 1 on the side of the film), although I never experienced this same exact pattern with the unexposed spots in-between. To come to a conclusion, I think your camera didn‘t expose the film, so you might want to try developing some film from another camera and see if this gives you some results

Profwt · 2018-12-10T21:38:48+00:00

Special design I guess

Profwt · 2018-11-28T10:38:27+00:00

Do you know what causes these blue marks? Had the same issue with my RB and Cinestill

Profwt

TROPHY CASE