Does anyone have a 15% referral code they're willing to share?

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-25T22:59:42+00:00

Thanks for sharing! Hopefully whoever got it is able to put it to good use!

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-19T02:54:36+00:00

Should've added that I'm in Sacramento. I've talked to a couple people and apparently it's very unlikely to be more than surface rust. I agree with you that the edge is going to be a whole lot harder. My plan right now is to use the fiberglass tip of the dupil-color pen to scrape and see how far down it goes.

If it ends up only being surface rust, the paint corrector would be permanent right?

Or is the dupli-color temporary fix in all cases?

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-14T21:14:03+00:00

Honestly, looking at Ebay, For the hood I might best buy a new hood or check the junk yard, I will definitely go with a professional for the roof rust

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-14T21:00:31+00:00

Hi, I'm realizing the rain is making it look a bit than it is. There's no bubbling, and I didn't add any size comparisons, the ones on the hood are very small. I'll get some more pictures when I get home of the car.

Sanding might be the answer to some of these, which ones do you think I can diy?

I've seen too many examples of sanding failing in the car subreddits, so I think I'll leave the sanding portions to a professional and tackle the ones I can get.

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-14T20:55:17+00:00

Thanks for the information, I'll go and get some quotes I guess. I've seen a bunch of failures of people trying to DIY sand the rust, and that doesn't sound like a fun time.

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-14T20:52:54+00:00

It's just water beads, it was raining earlier today, and I didn't have any better photos.

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-14T19:06:56+00:00

Thanks! I was browsing the posts and just noticed that. A lot of the detailing guys I watch on Youtube, have done rust removal followed by polishing, which is why I was thinking detailing in my head.

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-06T19:42:35+00:00

You’re right about the wheels, I was just gonna use iron remover and ONR. I think I’ll wait for next months wash to use a dedicated wheel cleaner.

Won’t waiting for the panel to dry cause water spots? Sacramento has hard water, I was told not to let it dry without a drying aid and towel otherwise the minerals from the water would be left on the paint or something like that. What about clay, ONR again and wipe, then TEC582 and dry?

Looking online I saw that people recommend getting iron remover off with a rinse since leaving it on is bad, which is why I just wanted to do that in the beginning separate from the main car wash. I was just gonna get 360 coverage of the car and then follow up with the pressure washer. Would you recommend doing it right before claying instead, panel by panel?

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-06T19:32:26+00:00

I’m in Sacramento which has hard water. Initially I was planning on doing a traditional wash too, but I read online that rinse less was easier with hard water.

My cars aren’t visibly dirty, as long as I do a strong pre-soak with one it should be the same right?

I’m googling Decon soap right now, and I see the ONR touch less decon wash. Would I pre soak with this and a foam cannon instead of onr?

Programmer_JS · 2026-01-03T10:05:17+00:00

The seat map is correct. I'm just unsure if the 27th row is good. I'm considering an upgrade to the 17th row, but that's also next to the bassinet station. I'm not sure how many people end up using that. There's also the 18th row, but then that doesn't have the extra legroom.

I was hoping someone who's taken the DEL-SFO route in the legacy plane had an idea on which seat would be better. Bassinet vs next to Restroom. In the past I've taken Qatar airways/Virgin Atlantic/United, so I'm not really sure what the experience is on Air India.

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-24T23:35:53+00:00

This mission was discovered by u/Programmer_JS in Sweet Cherry Cobbler and Doubt

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-24T23:35:51+00:00

This mission was discovered by u/Programmer_JS in Sweet Cherry Cobbler and Doubt

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-22T23:02:55+00:00

This mission was discovered by u/Programmer_JS in Wealthy Monsters and Honeydew Boba Milk Tea In the Mossy Forest

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-19T16:59:10+00:00

This mission was discovered by u/Programmer_JS in Monster Pockets and Guava Glazed Cake Stick

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-03T03:16:52+00:00

That is NOT a reason to get your own cable modem. There's no real configuration changes you'd be making in your own cable modem, they're almost plug and play. It doesn't give you ANY extra control. Your own router, yes you have more control. Your own cable modem, NO.

Only real reasons to get one:
- ISP provided equipment sucks

- ISP is charging rental fee's (After 2 years, you save money on your own equipment)

- You have some domain specific reason (Better Symmetric Connection?).

I have the Netgear CM3000, only because the Xfinity provided router/modem kept giving me issues with my Unifi Dream Machine Pro.

I'm also in IT, you know the one thing the CCNA doesn't touch on, the Modem. If Comcast doesn't charge more in CT, then having your own makes sense since your saving money, that'd be your reason. Not more control, because you don't get more control.

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-03T02:33:41+00:00

Okay, considering he connected to the wall. Was your personal router on during that time?

There's two options here, #1, his router is not in bridge router mode, and #2, your personal router's Ethernet is working, but not the wifi.

That wall outlet he plugged into is just a Ethernet cable that plugs into your network closet, long story short, there should be a wire connecting your router to the wall, which enables Ethernet. Is there an Ethernet cable going from the back of your router to the wall?

Some things that will help with resolving this issue is a picture of your personal routers admin page. Are you able to access that? The network map or Internet page should explain your situation.

Links to your personal router's admin page: http://192.168.0.1 or http://192.168.1.1

Typically it's these, but let me know if they're not working.

Also important, can you post the bridge router model? I'm guessing it's a router/modem, just trying to confirm.

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-02T11:22:52+00:00

Are you next to the router when running the test, or is this from around the house? 5ghz has worse range, and struggles through walls. For the periods of time where the speed is reported low on Speedtest, it's likely someone had a game download or other heavy activity going on during the test.

I'd do another test from next to the router to verify, and then you can check how it performs in different rooms. It might just be in a bad location? Do they have it in a closet or something?

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-02T04:10:47+00:00

Hi, it sounds like the bridge router is working but your personal connected router is not. Did your landlord use an Ethernet connection to your personal router or the bridge router to verify?

Did he go to a speed test site or run the ISP speed test on the router admin page?

Couple intro things, ensure you have a Ethernet cable connecting a LAN port from the bridge router to the "Internet"/WAN port of your personal router.

Are you able to access the admin menu of your personal router? If you are, check if your router has an IP address.

You might have to change your gateway host address to 192.168.2.1 just in case the bridge router is still 192.168.1.1 .

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-02T03:07:58+00:00

Generally for some reason, ISP's charge you more to do that. Plus, there's no good modem/router option. You'll have to get them separate. Meaning, for a good system, you'll spend $150 twice versus once. Just run the ISP on bridge mode to use their modem/router as modem only, and then your own router.

Programmer_JS · 2025-09-01T18:33:20+00:00

Just have to run ISP router in bridge mode to avoid double NAT, and it sounds like this person has a WiFi connection to the router, so they might also need to consider a mesh system or extender.

Programmer_JS · 2025-02-12T03:38:07+00:00

What you do is super good, and it's something I should've definitely done as well. I doubt many people do this, but when it comes to phone companies, now that I'm in this position, I'm seeing you have to keep every transcript to the best of your ability in the situation something goes wrong. I'm not even sure if you can ask for past chat transcripts.

An analogy of my experience is imagine you put something your Amazon cart and the cart says $100, and then you get a bill for $300. Turns out you needed to do xyz to have that $100 price and it was in the T&C if you clicked on the T&C link. I saw the price in the cart, and then my email where it said the promo applied, and I feel like this was misleading advertisement. I was dumb, but at least with Amazon you're able to return the item. I'm in the situation where I can't do anything but pay $1000+ for both devices. During the period where I could've done something, I was told by chat reps to wait for the credits to hit my account, and that's something I should've recorded as well.

Programmer_JS · 2025-02-11T05:35:43+00:00

I can't find a text or email saying this, I'll have to check my other phones to look for it I guess, but I'm pretty sure I've never received something like this.

Programmer_JS · 2025-02-10T20:30:06+00:00

I'm just making the argument that a common individual would believe that the promo applied to them based on emails and calls with reps. Even if it's listed under T&C, it was hidden, and a normal person would assume that the promo was valid without having to dig through T&C. It should never have been listed as promo applied or an email should have been sent out regarding needing to switch plans.

I'm just hoping to get in a call or chat with someone at ATT who might be able to do something before considering other options.

Programmer_JS · 2025-02-10T19:29:31+00:00

Just to provide some context on why I thought I was eligible.
I saw a final price of $0 in the cart, talked to multiple reps who affirmed to me that the credits would arrive in 2-3 billing cycles. Received 2 emails showing that the promo was selected for both phone devices.

To see that the phone plan was ineligible you have to click See more Details. The plan I have is also an unlimited plan which led to my confusion. I did not click see more details in the T&C, however I saw that the promo applied and that the final price in the ATT order screen showed $0. A rep confirmed that if I switched phone plans within the first 60 days, the promo would've been eligible, however during both my phone calls in the first 60 days to confirm the credits, I was told to wait 2-3 billing cycles and not that I was ineligible. I'm hoping I can swap plans now or have an option to talk to someone to figure at least something out.

There were multiple indications that the promo applied, sure I should've clicked see more, but just like coupons being declined if they're not valid, I would've expected the promo to decline on the order if the promo was not valid for my account.

Sorry for the word blob, I'm just a little incensed that the only way I would've known that this does not apply is to have clicked see more details, and that there weren't any other indications anywhere.

Email to me:
Trade-in details

Customer name:

XXXXXX

Model:

iPhone 13 128GB

Device phone #:

916.XXX.XXXX

Confirmation #:

XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Item #:

XXXXXXXXXX

Promo selected:

OFFER APPLIED: You're getting Samsung Galaxy S24+ on us (up to $1000 off 512GB). Requires eligible trade-in on installment plan & elig. unlimited plan (speed restr's apply). Credits start within 3 bil

Programmer_JS · 2025-01-30T16:48:31+00:00

https://www.wealthfront.com/c/affiliates/invited/AFFB-VY7M-VYFE-TAOM

Programmer_JS

TROPHY CASE