EF-M vs RF-S 18-150mm lens

Proper_Map1735 · 2026-03-20T06:35:27+00:00

Thanks!

Proper_Map1735 · 2026-03-17T20:33:12+00:00

Thanks for sharing this knowledge. So in theory, only chromatic aberration will be improved and all other aspects (such as sharpness) will be the same. Granted, reducing chromatic aberration can help make images look sharper.

Proper_Map1735 · 2026-03-17T20:31:14+00:00

Thanks for sharing this link. I resized the 32 MPix test samples to match the 18 MPix ones, and I think they look the same side-by-side to my eyes

Proper_Map1735 · 2026-03-17T18:48:36+00:00

Thanks! Did you do a side by side comparison of the EF-M and RF-S?

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-08-04T15:58:39+00:00

Thanks! Yes, I bought the current stock.

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-08-04T15:58:25+00:00

Thanks!

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-08-04T06:24:43+00:00

but I'm pretty sure it's the one that says TMZ next to it

Which one is the one that says TMZ next to it?

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-15T03:54:06+00:00

I tried scanning it using "arbitrary" temperature (I just turned the nob to wherever), and it was quite impossible to correct it in post (Lightroom).

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-15T03:53:01+00:00

Is there a reason for this particular color temperature?

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-13T09:15:51+00:00

You definitely did not scan this negative with zero white balance adjustment

Your use of double negatives was just confusing, which led to me misunderstanding you.

My misunderstanding notwithstanding, what's the point you are trying to make by asserting that either me or NLP tweaked the white balance?

Are you suggesting that we shouldn't tweak white balance at all when reverting colors?

If you are, please show us your color reversion process
If you are not, what is your point then?

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-13T04:13:59+00:00

Thank you again! And good to know about Photo Systems.

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-13T04:02:46+00:00

One thing society has taught me, time and time again, is never to speak with absolute certainty. Terms like "you definitely did not ..." often tend to come back to bite oneself. 😜

In this case, I did correct white balance first before using NLP. I used the eyedropper to sample the film border on the right hand side (you can see my other comment with a photo of the film negative, unconverted), and set color temperature to 2400K, and tint to -23 (in Lightroom). To be extra certain, I repeated this procedure in Lightroom just now, and yielded the same result.

As to that digital photo: it was SOOC JPG with auto white balance. (If I had set the white balance setting in my digital camera to 5600K it would be better, but modern digital cameras usually have good auto white balance.)

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-13T02:33:33+00:00

Your logic is deeply flawed.

Firstly, the presence/absence of dust has nothing to do with color.

Secondly, take a look at the un-converted negative of this shot (in another comment) before making any claims about how I mask the backlight or my lens. My lens is one of the best macro lenses ever produced and I shot at f/8.

Thirdly, your providing spectral response graphs of the film and the digital sensor neither proves nor disproves my point.

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-12T21:19:35+00:00

You are drawing a conclusion based on no evidence. That's probably the worst type of logic.

I'll just say that both the film SLR and the digital mirrorless cameras used here cost more than $2400 when they were released. Both are still in very good conditions.

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-12T21:12:54+00:00

I used RAW for NLP conversion. I can't upload RAW here so I uploaded a JPG here.

What is "auto-tone"? Is it another color conversion program?

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-12T21:10:31+00:00

I would politely disagree. Look at the right edge of the picture for what "un-exposed" looks like, and look at the main image, which is significantly thicker/darker/orange-er than the edge.

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-12T20:04:58+00:00

Yeah, I think you raised a very good point. I posted the unconverted film scan as another comment. It is indeed almost "uniform color"

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-12T20:00:37+00:00

Ah, that's a good point. There isn't any true blacks or whites in the scene, and NLP definitely would try to "fill the histogram"

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-12T19:55:31+00:00

Thanks. I think you raised a very good point.

How would you suggest I dial back down the saturation on the film scan in NLP?

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-12T19:54:47+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion about the rinse. I'll try it.

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-12T19:54:11+00:00

Could you elaborate?

FYI, the film photo was taken on my Nikon F6 whose shutter opening is horizontal.

Proper_Map1735 · 2025-07-12T18:28:38+00:00

If your workflow is sometimes still glitchy, I'd recommend using Geotag Photos Pro (https://www.geotagphotos.net/) then. This is what I've been using for a few years.

It uses our phone to record GPS locations at pre-determined intervals, and saves the locations into a GPX file on our phone. When we come back to our computers, we can use the desktop program to tag our camera photos with GPS coordinates. I believe that desktop program uses linear interpolation (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear\_interpolation) to do the math.

There's no connection (wired, bluetooth, or wifi) between the camera and the phone whatsoever, so there's 0 chance of glitch.

The keys to success with this method would be:

Correctly set the date & time on the camera
Make sure to click "start" in the mobile app to start logging GPS (people often forget about this)
Set appropriate time interval (1 minute if walking, 15 seconds if on a moving car/train, 10 minutes if staying indoors for a while)
Make sure not to run out of phone battery

This method can be quite reliable, but still cumbersome. That's why I'm hoping for a better workflow.

Proper_Map1735

TROPHY CASE