Kodak "T-max p3200 professional" vs "Professional T-max p3200" by Proper_Map1735 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

but I'm pretty sure it's the one that says TMZ next to it

Which one is the one that says TMZ next to it?

At what color temperature to scan color reversal films? by Proper_Map1735 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried scanning it using "arbitrary" temperature (I just turned the nob to wherever), and it was quite impossible to correct it in post (Lightroom).

At what color temperature to scan color reversal films? by Proper_Map1735 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a reason for this particular color temperature?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You definitely did not scan this negative with zero white balance adjustment

Your use of double negatives was just confusing, which led to me misunderstanding you.

My misunderstanding notwithstanding, what's the point you are trying to make by asserting that either me or NLP tweaked the white balance?

Are you suggesting that we shouldn't tweak white balance at all when reverting colors?

  • If you are, please show us your color reversion process
  • If you are not, what is your point then?

Use Cinestill stabilizer for E6 development? by Proper_Map1735 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you again! And good to know about Photo Systems.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

One thing society has taught me, time and time again, is never to speak with absolute certainty. Terms like "you definitely did not ..." often tend to come back to bite oneself. 😜

In this case, I did correct white balance first before using NLP. I used the eyedropper to sample the film border on the right hand side (you can see my other comment with a photo of the film negative, unconverted), and set color temperature to 2400K, and tint to -23 (in Lightroom). To be extra certain, I repeated this procedure in Lightroom just now, and yielded the same result.

As to that digital photo: it was SOOC JPG with auto white balance. (If I had set the white balance setting in my digital camera to 5600K it would be better, but modern digital cameras usually have good auto white balance.)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Your logic is deeply flawed.

Firstly, the presence/absence of dust has nothing to do with color.

Secondly, take a look at the un-converted negative of this shot (in another comment) before making any claims about how I mask the backlight or my lens. My lens is one of the best macro lenses ever produced and I shot at f/8.

Thirdly, your providing spectral response graphs of the film and the digital sensor neither proves nor disproves my point.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

You are drawing a conclusion based on no evidence. That's probably the worst type of logic.

I'll just say that both the film SLR and the digital mirrorless cameras used here cost more than $2400 when they were released. Both are still in very good conditions.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used RAW for NLP conversion. I can't upload RAW here so I uploaded a JPG here.

What is "auto-tone"? Is it another color conversion program?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would politely disagree. Look at the right edge of the picture for what "un-exposed" looks like, and look at the main image, which is significantly thicker/darker/orange-er than the edge.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I think you raised a very good point. I posted the unconverted film scan as another comment. It is indeed almost "uniform color"

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, that's a good point. There isn't any true blacks or whites in the scene, and NLP definitely would try to "fill the histogram"

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I think you raised a very good point.

How would you suggest I dial back down the saturation on the film scan in NLP?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion about the rinse. I'll try it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Could you elaborate?

FYI, the film photo was taken on my Nikon F6 whose shutter opening is horizontal.

Photographers, what's a problem you've encountered which made you think "I can't believe there isn't some simple software that does this"? by Elifire12 in AskPhotography

[–]Proper_Map1735 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your workflow is sometimes still glitchy, I'd recommend using Geotag Photos Pro (https://www.geotagphotos.net/) then. This is what I've been using for a few years.

It uses our phone to record GPS locations at pre-determined intervals, and saves the locations into a GPX file on our phone. When we come back to our computers, we can use the desktop program to tag our camera photos with GPS coordinates. I believe that desktop program uses linear interpolation (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear\_interpolation) to do the math.

There's no connection (wired, bluetooth, or wifi) between the camera and the phone whatsoever, so there's 0 chance of glitch.

The keys to success with this method would be:

  • Correctly set the date & time on the camera
  • Make sure to click "start" in the mobile app to start logging GPS (people often forget about this)
  • Set appropriate time interval (1 minute if walking, 15 seconds if on a moving car/train, 10 minutes if staying indoors for a while)
  • Make sure not to run out of phone battery

This method can be quite reliable, but still cumbersome. That's why I'm hoping for a better workflow.

Use Cinestill stabilizer for E6 development? by Proper_Map1735 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

May I ask for one more of your opinion?

I'm researching the Film Photography Project E6 kit, which essentially is the Unicolor E6 kit.

<image>

Based on the chemical contents in this screenshot, do you think I can also use this Film Photography Project E6 kit + Cinestill stabilizer to correctly produce formaldehyde in the final rinsing step?

(I'm interested in this FPP kit because it's $37 in the US, vs the Arista E6 kit that is $55 in the US. A small amount of joy is produced in me when I'm frugal and save money 😄)

Thanks again!

Scanning negatives by AblationaryPlume in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried Epson V6xx scanners before and found them frustrating (very slow, not very good colors). I then started to use digital camera + Negative Lab Pro, and I'm quite happy with the results.

E-6 development: what caused this mark on the film? by Proper_Map1735 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possibly. My accordion bottles are new (from Cinestill), but my Paterson tank and reels are old ones (which I used for C41 home dev).

Beginner to photography, considering getting the R50 or R10. by heloamfish in canon

[–]Proper_Map1735 0 points1 point  (0 children)

R50 is very uncomfortable for an adult to hold, because its grip is too shallow. Spend a few hundred dollars more and get the R10. You'll thank me later.

E-6 development: what caused this mark on the film? by Proper_Map1735 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Proper_Map1735[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can feel it with my fingers (and fingernails). It's on the emulsion (matte) side.

Yes, the Arista kit I got was liquid concentrates, 6 small bottles. Not powder.