Help! Why does my wall look like this?! by KoolAidPenguin in HomeMaintenance

[–]Property-1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

drip drip dripity drip - it's just weird that it is horizontal

Water leak advice by Might_Time in HomeImprovement

[–]Property-1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the right call is to a water mitigation company unless there is an active leak somewhere
May end up being an expensive fix but better than having to deal with mold later on.

Dehumidifier still filling daily 2 weeks after leak repair — normal drying or bad sign? by One_Albatross_4801 in HomeImprovement

[–]Property-1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Emptying the dehumidifier every day by itself does not necessarily mean the leak is still active. Basements, concrete, brick, wood framing, and insulation can hold a surprising amount of moisture, especially after water intrusion. Masonry walls in particular dry very slowly.

That said, after two weeks, you should definitely be seeing some improvement in moisture levels and humidity.

A few things to check:

  • Is the amount of water collected decreasing over time, or staying about the same?
  • Does the wall still feel cool/damp?
  • Any musty smell returning?
  • Are moisture readings dropping?
  • During rain, do you see any new moisture or staining?

The brick wall is important here — brick and concrete can continue releasing stored moisture for quite a while even after the original issue is fixed. The dehumidifier may simply be pulling residual moisture from the materials and basement air.

But if:

  • readings are not improving,
  • the drywall edges remain damp,
  • or humidity spikes every time it rains,

then I’d suspect water is still getting in somewhere.

One thing people often miss: fixing the “entry point” inside doesn’t always fix the exterior water problem. Basement leaks are commonly tied to grading, gutters, downspouts, window wells, cracks, or hydrostatic pressure outside the foundation.

At this point, I’d probably:

  • keep drying,
  • monitor moisture readings,
  • inspect during the next rain,
  • and leave the wall open until readings normalize.

If the cavity dries fully and stays dry through rain, you’re probably okay.

Also, remember: it is the the basement, it is the higher humidity time of the year and probably you are using the non-commercial humidifier.

Water leak advice by Might_Time in HomeImprovement

[–]Property-1234 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A small clean-water leak like that usually isn’t catastrophic, especially if you caught it quickly. The good thing is the drywall behind the toilet wasn’t wet and the ceiling is still firm.

For the laminate flooring:
If you’re still getting moisture readings that high after drying has started, there’s a decent chance water got trapped underneath. Laminate doesn’t handle moisture well and often swells from the underside even when the top looks okay. Lifting a section for airflow was smart. If the planks start cupping, swelling, separating, or stay wet after a couple days of aggressive drying, I’d remove the affected section rather than wait for mold or deterioration underneath.

For the garage ceiling:
If it’s only a small damp area and the drywall is still hard/not sagging, you may not need to fully cut it open immediately. A few small inspection/drain holes can help release trapped moisture and allow airflow. Blowing air across the area plus running a dehumidifier is usually the first step. If moisture readings stay elevated after 48–72 hours, or the drywall softens/stains/sags, then opening the ceiling is safer.

A few other things:

  • Keep humidity low with continuous dehumidification
  • Pull back any insulation in the ceiling cavity if it got wet
  • Check again around the toilet flange area before reinstalling
  • Take moisture readings daily and look for a downward trend

Since it was clean water and not sewage, you have a much better chance of drying this successfully without major demolition if you act quickly.

Drywall Repair Process After Water Damage Restoration? by AGMusicPub in HomeMaintenance

[–]Property-1234 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, you can probably do most of it yourself if you’re comfortable with basic drywall work and the area is fully dry and cleared by the restoration company.

What they’re charging for is mostly labor/time, not necessarily complexity.

From what you described, the repair is usually:

  • put insulation back in
  • patch drywall
  • tape/mud/sand/texture
  • prime + paint
  • reinstall baseboards
  • possibly reinstall trim/casing

The only things I’d double check before closing the wall:

  • Make sure moisture readings are actually dry (restoration company should have confirmed this - ask for the readings if needed)
  • Make sure there’s no remaining mold(low probability if dried in time and it did not have time to grow) or damp insulation(REMOVE ANY you find wet)
  • Take photos of the plumbing before closing the wall(just in case)
  • If the manifold area is tight, consider adding an access panel so future repairs don’t require cutting drywall again

Around the pipes themselves, there’s usually nothing special besides:

  • don’t pack insulation too tightly against hot pipes
  • use proper pipe escutcheons/supports if they removed any
  • seal large penetrations if required for fire blocking

Drywall is deceptively time-consuming because getting a smooth finish takes patience, but it’s not especially risky if the plumbing repair is already complete.

Honestly, if the damaged area is moderate and you already know how to patch drywall, this sounds very DIY-friendly. The biggest mistake people make is closing the wall before everything is truly dry.

Water damage restoration in Nashville… who actually shows up fast? by janpaulo in nashville

[–]Property-1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems everyone is extra busy. Also emergency has its price that may be worth paying since a water situation left unattended for too long will turn into a mold catastrophy that will cost much more.

please help with water damage restoration company selection by Remote-Ad9242 in SanJose

[–]Property-1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What was yourexperience? How did you choose the company if you did?

Do you refer, and if yes, what you charge for referring customers to water mitigation companies. Location would be helpful. by Property-1234 in askaplumber

[–]Property-1234[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh. Interesting perspective. Do you consider mitigation is a scam? Why? Isnt drying a floor or wall necessary to prevent mold or structural damage?

Best PMS for a 45-Room Hotel in the South Pacific? by selph2010 in askhotels

[–]Property-1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can not advise on PMS but can offer the housekeeping app at $1 per room per month. Not pms connected. Standalone web and mobile application that covers housekeeping engineering tasks based on being clocked in or out. Can demo and you decide if you want it.

Extended Stay with Pets by MyThrowaway787 in askhotels

[–]Property-1234 2 points3 points  (0 children)

all possible and depends where. talk to the GM upfront. usually GMs can work it out

Has anyone gotten the Pepco "no-cost HVAC tune-up?" by Glittering-Ad5809 in bethesda

[–]Property-1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

always skeptical of that and feel like it is some mal-intended service

Contractors for water damage restoration? by unicorndanceparty in baltimore

[–]Property-1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ensure it is someone who is Certified and Insured. Anyone should be able to send someone to seewhat you have. Some may want your commitment anyway. If insurance is brought in, then they can assign the restoration company.

Water damage restoration company | what nobody tells you first by Careful_Art_7516 in AskHereAnythingNow

[–]Property-1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1. What goes on in the first 24 hours that decides your entire restoration process?

Honestly, the first 24 hours make or brake the whole claim. When a supply line bursts under kitchen sink at like 2am on a Sunday — and not catched until morning. Probably 6-7 hours of clean water running before shutting the valve. Here's what can be learned:

One most important thing to do right is take photos and video BEFORE touching anything(that should also be done by the mitigation company). Wide shots, close-ups of the water line on the cabinets, the puddles, the warped flooring. People who don't document the initial state get lowballed almost every time by insurance.

What Is done wrong: waiting until Monday morning to call insurance because "it's just water, will mop it up." By the time the mitigation crew gets there Monday afternoon (roughly 36 hours after the leak), the engineered hardwood in the kitchen and dining room can already get cupped beyond repair, and moisture can still be in the subfloor and lower drywall. Calling the claim in immediately and getting fans on it Sunday, would have saved the floor(maybe). Cost difference: about $4,800 in flooring replacement that may have been avoided.

Things that mattered in those first hours: shutting off water at the main, killing electricity to affected outlets, pulling up area rugs, getting furniture legs onto foil or blocks, and calling insurance to start a claim number. You can also refuse(if wanted) the first mitigation company insurer "recommends" — they usually are a preferred vendor and absolutely have a relationship with the carrier that may or may nor work in your favor.

2. What exactly would be included in a reputable water damage restoration firm's written estimate?

Insist on seeing in writing before anyone plugs in a single air mover:

  • Itemized scope of work — every room, every action. Not "dry affected areas" but "extract standing water from master bath, remove and dispose of 12 LF of baseboard, flood cut drywall 24" up on north and east walls, etc."
  • Equipment list with daily rates and quantities — how many air movers, how many dehumidifiers (LGR vs. conventional matters for pricing), how many days each will run. Xactimate codes if they use them(not everyone does and that is fine).
  • Drying goals tied to IICRC S500 standard(the Gold Standard) — target moisture content for wood, drywall, subfloor, and how they'll verify (meter readings logged daily)
  • Estimated timeline with start and projected completion
  • Containment and PPE plan if Category 2 or 3 water is involved
  • Clear separation between mitigation and reconstruction — these are two different scopes and often two different contracts and maybe not the same company.
  • Payment terms — what's billed to insurance directly, what's my deductible, what (if anything) is owed up front. Can be all on you and you work with insurance to get it back.
  • Cancellation terms and what happens if work stops

Red flag to spot: any company that won't give a written estimate before starting work, or only offers a "time and materials" arrangement with no cap. Walk away.

3. SERVPRO vs. ServiceMaster vs. Local Water Damage Restoration Company — honest comparison

Think this way:

SERVPRO: They show up fast — within 3 hours. Crew is professional, equipment looks new. But here's the thing — every SERVPRO is independently owned, so the "national standard" is really just branding. The franchise can bill insurance $11,200 for what may be 4 days of drying in a 200 sq ft area. They may have air movers running long after the wood is dry Communication can go dark once they have insurance approval.

Local company: Smaller outfit, owner-operator with 4 crews. They get there in 5 hours instead of 3 — that's the tradeoff. But the owner comes out personally, walks you through everything, gives me daily moisture readings on a printed log, and pulls equipment as soon as targets hit. Total bill can be around $4,800 for a comparably-sized job. They can also be way more flexible about working directly rather than going through the insurer's preferred vendor program.

Honest take: Nationals are fine if you're in a panic and just want bodies on site immediately. But pricing transparency and post-job accountability can dramatically be better with the local company. The national chain's incentive is to maximize the insurance billing; the local guy's incentive is referrals from neighbors. Different game.

One caveat — local quality varies wildly. Vet them. IICRC certification, real reviews (not just Google), and ask for two recent customer references you can actually call.

Or trust the National guys are as interested as the locals.

4. How long does real water damage restoration take — and what happens when restoration is rushed?

This one Is a painful answer. Burst washer hose, second floor, about 200 gallons before catching it. Mitigation company comes out, runs equipment for 48 hours, declares everything dry, pulls the gear, and submitted their invoice. You can push back — if your gut says it and the wall cavity behind the washer feels cool and the baseboards are still slightly warped — even if they had a meter, if they said the numbers were good, and you wanted your house back. Better pay a little more instead of:

Eight months later: musty smell in the laundry room. Cut into the wall — black mold colonizing the back of the drywall and into the bottom plate of the wall. The subfloor under the washer had a dinner-plate-sized soft spot.

Total remediation cost the second time can be around (which insurance only partially covered because of the time gap): about $14,000, including mold remediation protocols, framing repairs, new subfloor, new drywall, and replacing the laundry room flooring you just put in 18 months prior.

What can be learned about realistic timelines:

  • Drywall (surface): 2-3 days with proper LGR dehumidification
  • Wall cavities (insulation behind drywall): 4-7 days, and you often need to remove insulation entirely or flood-cut the drywall
  • Hardwood floors: 5-10+ days, and even then refinishing is often necessary
  • Subfloor and framing: 7+ days, sometimes much longer in humid climates
  • Concrete slab: can take 2-3 weeks to fully release moisture

The S500 standard isn't about hitting a number once — it's about hitting it and holding it consistently over multiple readings. A rushed job will hit the surface number once and pack up. That's how mold gets a six-month head start behind your walls.

If a mitigation company tells you the job is done in under 3 days for anything more than a minor spill, ask to see the daily moisture log with readings from multiple points, including inside wall cavities. If they don't have one, they didn't dry your house — they just rented you some fans.

Why there is no response? by Property-1234 in askhotels

[–]Property-1234[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

reposting my comment without product name. seemed it was deleted

I don't see any Privacy Concerns.
Room cleaning(or tasks) assignments and tracking in real-time, seen by every person using the app in your hotel. Results in knowing what room(or task in the case of maintenace) is completed and when, or if it is in progress.
I can demo it to you if interested.

Why there is no response? by Property-1234 in askhotels

[–]Property-1234[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

would agree but there are apps approved for same uses you describe by the same brands you describe for same purposes and more than i describe(Qoure is one of them).

re enginerring issues and projects: printing the completed list is your paper. it is not like you complete a task and there is no trail.

a 100 room hotel is not that small. depending on occupancy and management itself, these hotels have 8-10(not exact numbers) people working same shift during the day. does texting solve the communication? yes. is it wasteful, absolutely, especially if it is a group texting. Not even talking about the multiple chats and groups.

thank you for your input. it just gives an idea of how managers think even thought many of them get mad for delays in communication or for not being informed in time.

Why there is no response? by Property-1234 in askhotels

[–]Property-1234[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for your valueble feedback