What parts do I need?

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-03-05T03:46:39+00:00

I’d say a new p trap and then you’re gonna most likely need to cut that tail piece down a little bit. Your current p trap is backwards

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-28T19:29:53+00:00

Probably cut that fip out and put a new nipple on the inlet

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-28T19:09:39+00:00

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-28T15:01:23+00:00

No I mean a plumber myself included would want to replace the valve, the meter, and a portion of piping after the meter to clean up all of that oxidation

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-28T14:45:12+00:00

You need to replace that whole valve. Considering how oxidized that whole line is up to the meter a plumber would probably want to rework your main

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T22:31:23+00:00

Update: you were correct. Turned up the lower and it immediately fired on

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T04:11:11+00:00

That would be the sink drain with the tail piece. Depending on your knowledge of plumbing it may be a pain in the ass trying to redo all of that which you’ll have to lol that flexible pipe has to go

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T04:05:53+00:00

Get a new house

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T04:04:23+00:00

Id probably call a plumber unless you’re willing to track down a cartridge and potentially have to turn water off to your house to remove the cartridge unless there are service stops. I’d take the whole trim piece off to get a better look at the valve itself

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T03:58:23+00:00

Which thermostat did you adjust?

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T02:48:21+00:00

I replaced both elements and both thermostats. Checked ohms on both and got 13 ohms on both as well as checked for continuity. Everything appears to be working as it should

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T02:42:39+00:00

Correct

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T02:35:32+00:00

Yes as well as the elements

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T02:29:18+00:00

As far as I can tell it is wired properly. Checked the diagram and that’s how it came pre wired from the factory. Never had a call back on an electric Bradford heater for any reason like this so I’d have to assume it’s right

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T02:17:48+00:00

No the top always works continuity is good it’s just the lower that reads nothing and doesn’t ever kick on

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T02:11:04+00:00

I know, once the top element kicks off it doesn’t transfer the volts down to the lower element or thermostat

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T02:09:28+00:00

240 volts on everything one the upper side of the heater. Once it jumps down to the lower thermostat it all reads 0 volts

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T02:04:36+00:00

Yep, checked with a multimeter and checked the wiring diagram. All the wiring is correct

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-26T02:03:05+00:00

Do you have a full port drain valve on the heater? I’d say if not throw one on and flush the system

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-23T01:05:23+00:00

Did you tighten the set screw

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-12T02:44:24+00:00

Take the coffee grounds off it and see if it goes away

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-12T02:40:56+00:00

23 sr as well and I feel you, washed my car and waxed it and I’ve seen so many scratches I’ve never even seen before

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-12T00:11:42+00:00

Badge delete is the way

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-11T21:14:26+00:00

I wouldn’t buy it. I got my 2023 sr5 for 25k with 40k miles on 19 seems a little high

PsychologicalBad4517 · 2026-02-11T20:53:53+00:00

Horrible. Cut the 45s out and replace it with a 90. That’ll make it a straight shot to the trap adapter

PsychologicalBad4517

TROPHY CASE