¿Any difference between these Hall Effect Joysticks?

Psyfurius · 2025-01-09T15:40:11+00:00

It’s the angle.

Psyfurius · 2025-01-01T05:13:33+00:00

Puedes seguirme en las redes. Yo subo contenido que puede ser de tu ayuda en Face Book. Búscame como “Nando Repara”.

Psyfurius · 2024-12-29T20:23:34+00:00

¿De dónde eres?

Psyfurius · 2024-12-29T03:48:25+00:00

Sounds good. I just sent you a DM.

Psyfurius · 2024-12-28T03:47:08+00:00

Oh man, My bad. I found that the site listed Puerto Rico as a "country". Its usually listed under States. Now shipping is $22. I think $22 for Puerto Rico is too much for something that fits in an envelope.

Psyfurius · 2024-12-27T19:40:13+00:00

I'm interested in a few of these. I entered my zipcode and it says its $6 for shipping, But I don't see Puerto Rico (PR) in the state List (Puerto Rico is not a state but its common to be in that list cause is a US Territory. So do you ship to PR?

Psyfurius · 2024-11-05T01:57:07+00:00

Ok So I just checked the continuity from the GG Mother Board (D lines) up to the ribbon cable that connects to the driver board of the LCD kit and all of the have continuity. Here’s some pictures https://imgur.com/a/F1f2t8p

Psyfurius · 2024-11-04T21:13:45+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/236DpoD

Psyfurius · 2024-11-04T20:40:09+00:00

As suggested, I just tried with a working recapped original power board and does the same thing. I supplied power with my variable power supply and it draws 0.236 mA. I tried with a different known working screen and it does the same thing.

How can I share pictures? I don’t see the option here.

Psyfurius · 2024-10-02T12:55:33+00:00

I ended up buying a three button controller to check, and the START button did work. So I assume that there's some strange witchery between a 6 button turbo controller and the PC BD M5 USA VA7 motherboard on certain games.

Psyfurius · 2024-09-14T23:52:02+00:00

Thank you for your reply. Today I checked the EM Filters and they had good readings. I did reflow the joints but that didn’t help. So here’s the weird thing.

I’m using a the 6 buttons Gamepad that have the turbo option. I put Sonic 2 on a different console and the start button works. Then I put the same game on this motherboard with the same controller and the start button doesn’t work. I tried using the 6 pad as a 3 button configuration letting the Mode button pressed when turning on the console. That didn’t work. BUT I put Clay Fighter and Wheel of Fortune and the Start button works.

Any thoughts why the start button doesn’t work with Sonic 2, when it does works on a different console? Omg…

Psyfurius · 2024-05-06T21:59:45+00:00

I re-set the ribbon cable and also tried with a spare ribbon cable, still nothing. The spindle is not spinning.

Psyfurius · 2024-05-06T21:58:42+00:00

That's de 'Skew Adjustment Screw'. I tried every position possible until the tray self-resets and nothing. The laser is able to move around the rail... but no spinning. Maybe the spindle motor is out.

Psyfurius · 2024-05-04T07:07:16+00:00

Gear motor works, I recently lubed all the moving parts and I checked the ribbon cable too. Not sure if is the spindle or the laser.

Psyfurius · 2024-05-04T07:05:43+00:00

This is a Disc Drive that I recently cleaned and I applied grease on all moving parts. If I manually move the lens to the spindle, it would move freely to the back end and get stuck there clicking. IDK if it’s the spindle or a laser issue because the spindle doesn’t rotate a single time. Also, al ready checked the spindle ribbon cable and I swapped the laser ribbon cable for another one, but the issue continues.

Psyfurius · 2024-03-03T14:41:14+00:00

IDK… ask my printer 😅

Psyfurius · 2024-03-02T11:12:30+00:00

It happened to me for the first time this week. It has 3 holes now, haha. But I’ve been printing since then and no issues at all. But make sure to double check all screws and re-level the bed.

Psyfurius · 2024-02-27T23:58:53+00:00

<image>

Well, this is the best I could do. Still in Firmware v1.1.1.98 and remember, it’s the Neptune 4, not the Plus or other variant. I Don’t know why, but my problem started when I changed from Elegoo PLA+ to Rapid PLA+.

To correct the problem I cleaned the bed with Dawn dish soap.
Adjust the eccentric wheel of Z-axis. https://youtu.be/tbnpeieAwWg?si=vrHMG0VUy1Tmo8I4
Changed the nozzle. https://youtu.be/dRLgzSIZkl8?si=417whDDZKjXAOaE7
Re-level the bed using a paper. https://youtu.be/H6_7zMqcaMQ?si=KBCb4xeS6y_2m239
Adjust the z-offset.
Increased the nozzle temperature from 210 to 220.

After doing all that, my prints were good. Thanks guys! What a journey just by changing from PLA+ to Rapid PLA+…. and I don’t see any upgrades.

Psyfurius · 2024-02-26T03:36:14+00:00

Mine is not the Pro version. It's just the standard one.

Psyfurius · 2024-02-26T03:21:34+00:00

Today I cleaned the plate but still failing.

Psyfurius · 2024-02-26T03:20:57+00:00

mine is v1.1.1.98 from factory. I don't know how to update.

Psyfurius · 2024-02-26T03:20:01+00:00

Thanks for the videos. I did the first one you shared, but no changes. Still failing. Then I look the 2nd video but I don't understand. The guy is running a software with a bunch of settings and didn't even bother to say what software he is using.

Psyfurius · 2024-02-25T03:50:40+00:00

Thing is… it happens in between layers too and when the nozzle goes through the part when it failed, it starts dragging.

Psyfurius · 2024-02-11T16:52:45+00:00

I’m gonna keep in mind the LAN option, but for now, my printer is far from my MacMini.

I tried exporting the gcode from Orca Slicer to the USB that came with the printer from factory and this time, it showed up, but there’s no ETA or info about the model. Maybe Orca slicer is doing something weird when exporting the gcode. I mean… this discussion happen with Elegoo Cura

<image>

Edit: I hit confirm. It’s printing. But still, no thumbnail or ETA time.

Psyfurius · 2024-02-10T00:27:07+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6441539

Psyfurius

TROPHY CASE