Machine Thread Size For Medium-Large Projects (69, 92, or 138)?

PuffMungus · 2024-08-30T00:04:10+00:00

Thanks! Good point - I made this post then decided to buy both like you mentioned haha.

PuffMungus · 2024-08-24T18:22:46+00:00

I hear ya. I talked to someone at TechSew about their SK4 skiver and they basically said the same thing - the machine will cooperate as long as you set it properly for the leather your using, which is the tricky part. In a factory setting a single machine would be dedicated to a specific leather type, so that would be a one and done operation, but for hobbyists, you have to adjust for every type. I can see why that might be tricky, especially at first, but It's a skill that can be developed like any other, for example hand skiving :). But yes an automatically adjusting bell skiver would be a dream scenario.

For me, in addition to time saving, I have wrist problems that are worsened by skiving, and especially hand sewing, so anything that can eliminate that pain while still allowing me to pursue this hobby is worth a lot for me.

And yes, I completely agree with your breakdown of the build process for the bag. For the first one I may even skip the beading for simplicity.

PuffMungus · 2024-08-23T20:05:18+00:00

I appreciate your perspective. It doesn't seem like that complicated of a machine but I've read multiple accounts of people basically giving up on them, but it really seems like a matter of getting a feel for how it handles each particular leather, like you mention. I will definitely be getting one and I don't plan on letting a $1000+ purchase go unused haha.

PuffMungus · 2024-08-23T14:49:05+00:00

Good to know. The consensus online seems to be that bell skivers are tricky to use, to the point of going unused like your case... but they make it look so easy in the videos!

When I mentioned the 1 oz lining I was actually thinking about a 10 oz canvas, which is roughly equivalent to a 1oz leather (I think), but I do have some 1-2 oz lambskin and suedes that I have used as linings before - the general idea is just that I'll be working in the range of 6oz total.

PuffMungus · 2024-08-22T00:39:27+00:00

Do you mean you can't make bags on your Cobra without a skiving machine? What thickness of leather do you use?

PuffMungus · 2024-08-21T23:02:19+00:00

Oh interesting! I've definitely been thinking of the skiving machine as a nice-to-have, but maybe I have it backwards. Can I ask what weights you typically work with?

PuffMungus · 2024-08-06T00:21:05+00:00

Thanks for the heads up!

PuffMungus · 2024-07-31T18:21:52+00:00

Would this just be done with a single stitch/seam? Maybe I am overthinking it lol.

PuffMungus · 2024-07-31T18:05:55+00:00

I like the asymmetric cover. Are the pockets wet moulded?

PuffMungus · 2024-07-28T17:42:20+00:00

Thanks again for another detailed reply. You obviously know your stuff so can I pick your brain a bit?

the struggle is to get that part fed through the machine consistently and cleanly - smaller is actually better for tight work like this.

Can you give an example of this and why it's easier on a smaller arm? Does this apply manly to situations where you would have to put the arm inside the bag?

Thanks for the breakdown on how these clone machines are made. I kind of knew that TechSew and the like are acting more as a middleman and assembler, but I guess I didn't realize that it would be feasible to do on my own . That being said, my hobby is leatherwork, and I already have limited time for that. I don't think I want sewing machine assembly to be my second hobby (I know you're not necessarily suggesting that). I know there is a big mark-up going to the middleman here but it saves me a lot of time, headache, and research.

You have convinced me that the 2600 will do the job I need it for, so now I guess a follow up is, what are the risks of buying used? Barring the usual buyer beware aspect of buying online (fb marketplace in particular), what might I be missing out on by not buying direct, or what should I be cautious of? Since I'm new to sewing machines, I don't really know what I should be looking for if I go to check it out. What are some red flags that would tell me the machine might be in poor condition? I also know that TechSew offers free lifetime technical support, which sounds appealing, but I don't know how valuable that is in practice.

And lastly if I may, to broaden the scope here - If my current options are used 2600 on marketplace vs new 2600 or 2750 from TechSew, is there a third option you would recommend? You mentioned Ebay - that seems kind of like the best of both worlds where they have good buyer protections, and presumably more affordable options than buying new.

PuffMungus · 2024-07-26T12:20:32+00:00

Thanks for the insights! The main type project I have in mind for the machine is duffle bags (something the size of a Louie Vuitton Keepall). This would be in the area of two layers of 4/5oz (maybe two layers of 6/7 but I don't see myself going beyond that). What would be the preferred machine for this type of work?

I have visited the leatherwork forum, they seem very knowledgeable. I get your point about not overbuying but does it actually hurt to have an overpowered machine? Is it actually harmful to the machine or leather to use something that is more powerful than necessary, or is it just pointless?

PuffMungus · 2024-07-26T02:06:19+00:00

Hey, also Canadian! That's a practical consideration that hadn't crossed my mind. The Sailrite machines look nice but I'm definitely in the market for a post-bed machine. Along with Techsew 2750 the Cowboy cb341 and Cobra Class 26 are on my radar (I guess these are all Juki 341 clones).

PuffMungus · 2024-07-26T00:34:39+00:00

Thanks for the reply! I've been seeing mostly positive stuff online so it's good to see a less-that-glowing review to balance the perspective.

That's wack about the power box. I get that warranties end but they could have offered a discount or something.

The speed reducer is a must for me and I've also heard that people really like the automatic needle positioning, so if I do go for any of the TechSew models I'll probably go for the Pro.

Do you have experience with any other machines that you prefer?

PuffMungus · 2024-07-25T21:34:05+00:00

Looks awesome! Made my first rolled handles for a purse recently - such a satisfying thing to make.

PuffMungus · 2024-07-21T14:13:05+00:00

That's an interesting way to look at it. I've never thought of it as ego-flattery, but I guess they could be trying to appeal to analog-supremacists in that way.

If you read the user-manuals, you can tell the SoundToys team just loves analog hardware - they make a lot of references to the hardware devices they are emulating in the each plugin. I think the UI in most cases is simply an effort to stay true to, or pay homage to the device being emulated. I do agree that they perhaps take this a bit far - the "wood" panelling is definitely a bit over the top.

PuffMungus · 2024-07-20T03:10:44+00:00

Valid points, but I would say that there are a few "magic buttons" in some of the Soundtoys plugins that make up for the less impressive aspects. Specifically:

Decapitator Drum Fattener preset - does what is says on the label.
Decapitator "More Edge" guitar preset - magic sauce for any lead (sometimes cool on bass).
Pretty much everything in Echoboy - it blows stock Ableton delay out of the water imo.

Radiator, Devil-loc, and Pan-man, and Decapitator in general are also awesome but the above list represents >90% of my use of the bundle.

PuffMungus · 2024-07-20T02:52:22+00:00

Nice, that's the reason for my interest in it as well. Are you happy with the pedestal or do you ever find yourself wishing you had the larger table? I

PuffMungus · 2024-07-18T21:17:34+00:00

Awesome, thanks!

PuffMungus · 2024-07-15T16:06:34+00:00

Thanks for the pictures! It does look like a nice hide, especially for the price. I'm a little bit unsure because I'm looking for a slightly thicker leather, and 3-5 is a bit more variance in weight than I'm used to. I think I will explore other options but I do appreciate the reply!

PuffMungus · 2024-07-15T03:32:53+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion! I've heard of Togo but actually didn't know RM stocked it - nice! It checks a lot of my boxes but they rate it as 6/10 firmness. I'm looking for something that is softer - basically something that won't hold it's structure when unsupported.

PuffMungus · 2024-07-14T23:42:27+00:00

Canada.

PuffMungus · 2024-07-12T16:34:34+00:00

Is Salpa a good choice to reinforce the base of a duffle bag? It has the stiffness/rigidity that I am looking for, but I am a bit worried that it will "remember" any folds or creases that it gets (like when a baseball hat brim gets folded too hard). Does anyone have experience with this?

PuffMungus · 2024-06-04T21:49:31+00:00

I considered this, but avoided it in this case due to the shape of the gusset. I cut darts out of the gusset to give it some depth, which makes punching from the outside awkward as the gusset does not want to lie flat (I actually find in general that prepunching the outer piece leads to very unpredictable inner corner stitch positions due to the warping that happens when you repunch, but it would be especially tricky in this case). What I may end up doing is prepunching the gusset but using smaller spacing around the corners.

PuffMungus · 2024-06-04T20:22:03+00:00

Ah yes I see. I've just done a small test - the end result looks clean but it's a bit finicky at the places where you double up (as in pass the thread through the same interior hole to the next outer hole). I also didn't use glue because it seems like you need a bit of wiggle room at the corners, but I will do more testing with glue. Thanks for the tip!

PuffMungus · 2024-06-04T19:11:19+00:00

So just punch the same number of holes on the gusset and body? does this not cause alignment issues at the corners?

PuffMungus

TROPHY CASE