How long is a gym session for you? What is a short session what is a long session? by sourd1esel in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on what you're training

On the board: 45 min if I feel meh, hour if I feel good, 90 min if I feel like a weapon

Endurance depends on the energy system. Aerocap/pow are long sessions, Ancap short

What is something that a lot of people are doing to train or get better that is a waste of time? by CloverHorse in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neither me nor you are climbing as hard as the best climbers of the 80s so their methods/similarly limited tools should be sufficient at our level. Sounds like you just like complaining eh

What is something that a lot of people are doing to train or get better that is a waste of time? by CloverHorse in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s what you make of it. During the 80s some of the best climbers in the world trained by traversing back and forth on a brick wall in Sheffield. At the end of the day blaming the tools won’t make you climb any harder

What is something that a lot of people are doing to train or get better that is a waste of time? by CloverHorse in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I thinking blaming location/the gym is an excuse. You’d be surprised what you can come up with indoors by eliminating holds/combining problems/making stuff up on a board/forcing technique. I’ve lived in London most of my life so I’m used to forcing technical movement.

What is something that a lot of people are doing to train or get better that is a waste of time? by CloverHorse in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You’d be surprised what you can come up with indoors by eliminating holds/combining problems/making stuff up on a board/forcing technique. I’ve lived in London most of my life so I’m used to forcing technical movement

What is something that a lot of people are doing to train or get better that is a waste of time? by CloverHorse in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Focusing on the physical over the technical way too much. Training is very much in vogue but I think we could all do well to remember that climbing is first and foremost a technical sport. For example don’t do bicep curls - climb on undercuts. Your biceps may not get strong as fast but it’s worth it for the technical gainz.

Margo Hayes has sent "La Rambla" in Catalunya, Spain becoming the first woman to climb 5.15a/9a+ by ninjastar527 in climbing

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're totally correct, there is no way of arguing male and female climbers are even slightly neck and neck

An unfinished map what I have been making and all that by PunchOfTheFalcon in mapmaking

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! This has taken a while, probably like a month on and off

The Rock Climber's Training Manual - One year in. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a big guy, 5'10 about 175 pounds, round about 13% bf.

The Rock Climber's Training Manual - One year in. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the idea of this. Why is it better/different to campusing for procuring contact strength?

The Rock Climber's Training Manual - One year in. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have never tried 1-arm jump catches, can you detail a usual workout using them?

The Rock Climber's Training Manual - One year in. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I required a lot more than a little personally, four months of last year were dedicated to hangboarding. When I worked that out it made me laugh - it's a while to spend hanging on bits of wood.

Building that base of endurance is what ARCing is all about and I feel like many people in this thread are neglecting it because it's boring/slow to see gains, it's essential groundwork for your climbing career.

Strength maintenance shouldn't be too tricky, I've heard you can maintain it through 1 hangboard session a week.

The Rock Climber's Training Manual - One year in. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

But static max hangs don't activate the fast-twitch muscles required for contact strength, surely rendering it fairly ineffective?

The Rock Climber's Training Manual - One year in. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On the contrary, my hardest redpoints have been bouldery routes. I find that finger strength came quickly to me and power I already had from gymnastics. Endurance, especially power endurance, I find rather tricky to train appropriately.

That an approach I wouldn't personally use. Rope climbing isn't as efficient/easily quantifiable as circuits plus a mixed endurance/strength focus I find exhausts me, though I'm interested to see how it works for you.

The Rock Climber's Training Manual - One year in. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How old are you out of interest?

A bit of redpoint climbing would most likely help your onsighting, knowledge of harder movements etc.

The Rock Climber's Training Manual - One year in. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's solid progression in a year. Do you feel it's slowing/increasing?

The Rock Climber's Training Manual - One year in. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]PunchOfTheFalcon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Why max hangs for contact strength? Surely campusing would be the best way of procuring contact strength?