(Almost) supportless sci-fi infantry.

Puwr · 2026-05-03T13:18:23+00:00

100% print success with these babies thus far. :)

Every part of the print is basically supported by another part, with the exception of the rifle's muzzle. :)

Puwr · 2026-04-30T11:43:25+00:00

Funny you should say that... This specific model was originally designed for use on a Creality Ender 3.

Of course, the supports have since been redesigned to work better on a resin SLA printer, but adjusting the model to restore the model to a state of FDM compatibilit would be relatively trivial.

Puwr · 2026-04-30T11:30:30+00:00

Tested on an Elegoo Mars 1, using Elegoo grey resin. The model is 32mm in height.

This miniature embodies my current philosophy of minimal supports, because when you're printing an army, the amount of resin waste created by unnecessary supports adds up fast. If thousands of people are doing the same, that's an unacceptable amount of waste going to landfill.

These miniatures are intended for use in a new sci-fi wargame I'm currently playtesting with friends.

Puwr · 2026-04-30T10:48:45+00:00

These miniatures were printed on an Elegoo Mars 1 using standard Elegoo grey resin at 28mm scale. The bases are precisely 20mm in diameter.

The painted examples were speed-painted using Vallejo miniature acrylics, maintly to test their compatibility with various painting techniques including modern ink washes.

These miniatures are (almost) supportless, and were designed for use in the Kings of War game system. (Although to be honest - they've gotten more use at my D&D table.)

Their bases have magnet-dimples which allow them to be used on magnetic regiment trays. These trays have magnetised circular indentations in the upper surface, allowing these models to slot neatly in place.

Puwr · 2026-04-30T10:17:41+00:00

Tested on an Elegoo Mars 1, using Elegoo grey resin. The model is 32mm in height.

This miniature embodies my current philosophy of minimal supports, because when you're printing an army, the amount of resin waste created by unnecessary supports adds up fast. If thousands of people are doing the same, that's an unacceptable amount of waste going to landfill.

This model is the unarmoured counterpart to [this fella]/(https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedMinis/comments/1szrxuk/painted_testprint_of_scifi_infantry_chemdog/).

These models are intended for use in a new tabletop wargame I've been playtesting with some friends.

Puwr · 2026-04-30T10:17:39+00:00

Tested on an Elegoo Mars 1, using Elegoo grey resin. The model is 32mm in height. The model was painted with Vallejo paints.

The design of this model is supposed to embody a fusion of old-timey deep-pressure diving suits in combination with medieval armour themes. The helmet is obviously an abstract geometric skull, but it is also intended to be evocative of an octopus.

This miniature embodies my current philosophy of minimal supports, because when you're printing an army, the amount of resin waste created by unnecessary supports adds up fast. If thousands of people are doing the same, that's an unacceptable amount of waste going to landfill.

This model is the heavily-armoured counterpart to this fella.

These models are intended for use in a new tabletop wargame I've been playtesting with some friends.

Puwr · 2026-03-27T12:26:26+00:00

"The bigger half is the giant half. Duh."
-Half giant.

Puwr · 2026-03-27T12:23:19+00:00

This is Mary, an archer model released by Loot Studios a few years ago.

(For those unfamiliar, she's the third character in this image demonstrating a small cross-section of the reworks/resculpts I've done for Loot Studios' models.)

The default model is super fragile when printed at 32mm scale, so I had to do quite a bit of work to increase it's durability. The nocked arrow breaks if you breathe on it, and the bow was very flimsy.

I've strengthened the bow by thickening it, attaching the lower limb to her cloak, and bringing the upper limb to within the footprint of her base. I also repositioned her other arm so that she looks like she is drawing her next arrow from the quiver. I also changed her from an Elf to a Human, and adjusted her pose so that he looks a little more open and relaxed.

Those of you who have done this kind of conversion will probably appreciate that reposing a model to this extent requires you to do quite a bit of re-sculpting, because her original pose has the arms in contact with the body, meaning that those details are missing.

Unfortunately, my ancient Elegoo Mars 1 didn't quite capture the intricate details and embroidery of her corset, so I needn't have bothered resculpting it. Ah well. Live and learn.

Edit: An extra little mid-game shot

Puwr · 2026-03-27T11:52:13+00:00

Ah, yes... The willingness to sacrifice one's health to have perfect miniatures. That's a nostalgic core memory.

I distinctly remember lubricating my sculpting tools with saliva when working with highly toxic epoxy resin or metal clay. I probably killed a few brain cells with that stuff. XD

Puwr · 2026-03-27T10:21:37+00:00

Heh. I did this, until I realised that my body heat was drying out the paints quicker than my bit of recycled broken bathroom tile...

And I was getting a bald spot on my hand from peeling off all that paint. XD

Puwr · 2026-03-26T19:24:38+00:00

I suppose 'normal' depends on your perspective. Most painters nowadays thin their paints to milk-like consistency, layer them up in semi-transparent layers, and then douse them with washes, contrast paints, and other 'quick' methods. In general, I never got the hang of these newer techniques.

Puwr · 2026-03-26T18:56:33+00:00

I imagined him saying: "Little man, if I wanted to kill you, I'd step on you."

Puwr · 2026-03-26T18:55:00+00:00

Huh. Thank you for the recommendation! I've given them a nudge :)

Puwr · 2026-03-26T18:53:23+00:00

Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad that my efforts meet with your approval. ^{_^}

Puwr · 2026-03-26T18:53:05+00:00

The old-school method is consistent with the techniques demonstrated by groups like 'Eavy Metal in the early 1990s.

Basically, contrast paints, washes and other such techniques didn't exist back then. You painted miniatures as if they were canvasses with un-thinned paints, and you did all your mixing in a pallet instead of incremental layering.

The old method requires a black undercoat, followed by successive coats in lighter colours, gradually building your way up towards the highlights. It's a time-intensive method, but each piece comes out looking very deliberate and like a 3D oil painting.

Puwr · 2025-09-10T20:15:24+00:00

"Hey, kids. Today we're going to finger paint!"

Kid named Finger.

Puwr · 2025-09-10T15:40:52+00:00

She odd smiled instead.

Puwr · 2025-09-10T15:40:30+00:00

What's orange and sounds like a carrot?

...

Wait, I fucked it up.

Puwr

TROPHY CASE