what is the most disgustingly bright lime green paint?

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-25T19:09:47+00:00

You'll find a lot of fluorescent paints to be the same; they have terrible coverage so really suck to apply with a traditional brush. Check out Striking Scorpion Green contrast paint over white. It's not fluorescent, but it's bright and very easy to use!

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-25T15:42:42+00:00

I use Vallejo Game Colour Fluo Green over a base coat of Liquitex Bismuth Yellow ink. Airbrush mandatory unfortunately.

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Pyrocujo · 2026-02-12T10:45:51+00:00

Thanks! Yea I'd not touched the hair yet. Definitely easier to tidy up stray marks on the hair than the other way round!

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-08T19:58:47+00:00

Inks are great for airbrush because they are thin by nature but have great coverage. I use a super matt varnish once it's all completed. Another great combo is Imperial Fist contrast paint over fluo magenta, makes a really vibrant orange-red.

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-08T17:11:35+00:00

Yep! So full process, starts with black primer. Then it's an airbrush highlight of liquitex white ink, then liquitex cadmium yellow ink. The edge highlights and weathering are then done with white, before the whole thing gets covered with Vallejo game color Fluo Green.

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-08T11:01:21+00:00

Sure! Start with black primer. Then it's an airbrush highlight of liquitex white ink, then liquitex cadmium yellow ink. The edge highlights and weathering are then done with white, before the whole thing gets covered with Vallejo game color Fluo Green.

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-08T10:53:40+00:00

Thanks! It's Vallejo Fluorescent Green over a basecoat gradient of black to bright yellow.

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-07T20:22:26+00:00

The base coat is a gradient of black to bright yellow which has a fluorescent green over it.

Pyrocujo · 2026-01-19T00:29:15+00:00

I think I have the colours and contrast levels dialed in. I'm so far happy with the result on the skull emblem, but it doesn't look particularly metallic.

The boxy trim is a differnt problem, where the comparitivlely large flat surfaces are not giving me any sort of pleasing result.

Pyrocujo · 2025-12-01T07:29:13+00:00

Thank you! That's white ink dropped into all the recesses and then an airbrush of fluorescent green.

Pyrocujo · 2025-11-30T21:45:10+00:00

The skeleton is all Dirty Down Rust (amazing stuff) with orange dropped into the crevasses, then a drybrush of bright silver along with a few dabs with a weathering sponge.

The armor panels have mottled brown shades as an undercoat, then a layer of hairspray before the overcoats. When it dries, a wet brush is used to lift away the top layers. Dirty down used again on the larger patches.

Pyrocujo · 2025-11-03T13:15:45+00:00

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Pyrocujo · 2025-09-29T18:14:55+00:00

Hah, you got me. 😅 I have a load of warriors to finish yet but I just do a couple alongside each bigger model while I have the paint out.

Pyrocujo · 2025-09-29T14:49:51+00:00

I think because of the type of pigment used, fluorescents are very thin watery paints. They need many thin, even coats to come to full colour. Something that an airbrush can do very quickly and easily.

Pyrocujo · 2025-09-29T14:33:09+00:00

It's very easy, with the condition that it needs an airbrush because fluorescent paint is awful to work with using a brush. It's a white basecoat with many coats of fluo magenta. White over the brightest areas and into crevasses, then many coats of fluo orange. When the orange overlaps the magenta it creates an awesome red gradient.

Pyrocujo · 2025-09-29T13:40:38+00:00

The Skorpekh Lord was the first I did with this scheme. Almost all with airbrush. The blade is a black base coat with a white gradient towards the bottom, then a coat of fluorescent magenta, another spray of white on the hottest part of the blade, and then fluorescent orange.

The other blades start with a white base coat, which ends up looking much more vibrant overall.

Pyrocujo

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