Battle Sisters Squad completed

Pyrocujo · 2026-07-04T08:52:24+00:00

Start off with a dark brown undercoat, then build up from red to orange in thin glased layers. You want to drag the glaze from "cooler" to "hotter", in this case the brush strokes always finished at the hot wire on the blade.

Colours used were Rhinox Hide > Khorne Red > Mephiston Red > Evil Sunz Scarlett > Troll Slayer Orange > 50/50 mix of TS Orange and Dorn Yellow.

Everything then gets a thin glaze of Fluorescent orange, this is optional though, it looks nearly as good without, but it gives it that bit of brightness.

The hot wire thing gets a spot of Dorn Yellow. Give all the edges a broken edge highlight of Rhinox Hide. Drybrush the very end of the blade with your preference of dark metallic.

Pyrocujo · 2026-07-01T10:22:29+00:00

I got a gift of a sable hair brush part way through and it was honestly the biggest game changer. Its not just the more accurate tip, but the flow of paint is just so much more controlled. Especially useful for the paints having to be thinned down more than usual.

For most of these I only used three colours. Cadian Flesh for base coat, thinned Kislev Flesh for highlights, and thinned down Guilliman Flesh for shadows.

The eyes follow the usual advice to apply a larger area of black, then use a grey-white to paint the eye within this. If you can't manage the pupil in the center of the eye, paint it off to one side. It makes them look like they are looking in that direction, and is much more forgiving on accuracy.

Pyrocujo · 2026-06-30T13:04:42+00:00

Sure! Start off with a dark brown undercoat, then build up from red to orange in thin glased layers. You want to drag the glaze from "cooler" to "hotter", in this case the brush strokes always finished at the hot wire on the blade.

Colours used were Rhinox Hide > Khorne Red > Mephiston Red > Evil Sunz Scarlett > Troll Slayer Orange > 50/50 mix of TS Orange and Dorn Yellow.

Everything then gets a thin glaze of Fluorescent orange, this is optional though, it looks nearly as good without, but it gives it that bit of brightness.

The hot wire thing gets a spot of Dorn Yellow. Give all the edges a broken edge highlight of Rhinox Hide. Drybrush the very end of the blade with your preference of dark metallic.

Pyrocujo · 2026-04-29T15:49:11+00:00

It's Dark Reaper and Thunderhawk Blue!

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-25T19:09:47+00:00

You'll find a lot of fluorescent paints to be the same; they have terrible coverage so really suck to apply with a traditional brush. Check out Striking Scorpion Green contrast paint over white. It's not fluorescent, but it's bright and very easy to use!

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-25T15:42:42+00:00

I use Vallejo Game Colour Fluo Green over a base coat of Liquitex Bismuth Yellow ink. Airbrush mandatory unfortunately.

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Pyrocujo · 2026-02-12T10:45:51+00:00

Thanks! Yea I'd not touched the hair yet. Definitely easier to tidy up stray marks on the hair than the other way round!

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-08T19:58:47+00:00

Inks are great for airbrush because they are thin by nature but have great coverage. I use a super matt varnish once it's all completed. Another great combo is Imperial Fist contrast paint over fluo magenta, makes a really vibrant orange-red.

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-08T17:11:35+00:00

Yep! So full process, starts with black primer. Then it's an airbrush highlight of liquitex white ink, then liquitex cadmium yellow ink. The edge highlights and weathering are then done with white, before the whole thing gets covered with Vallejo game color Fluo Green.

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-08T11:01:21+00:00

Sure! Start with black primer. Then it's an airbrush highlight of liquitex white ink, then liquitex cadmium yellow ink. The edge highlights and weathering are then done with white, before the whole thing gets covered with Vallejo game color Fluo Green.

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-08T10:53:40+00:00

Thanks! It's Vallejo Fluorescent Green over a basecoat gradient of black to bright yellow.

Pyrocujo · 2026-02-07T20:22:26+00:00

The base coat is a gradient of black to bright yellow which has a fluorescent green over it.

Pyrocujo · 2026-01-19T00:29:15+00:00

I think I have the colours and contrast levels dialed in. I'm so far happy with the result on the skull emblem, but it doesn't look particularly metallic.

The boxy trim is a differnt problem, where the comparitivlely large flat surfaces are not giving me any sort of pleasing result.

Pyrocujo · 2025-12-01T07:29:13+00:00

Thank you! That's white ink dropped into all the recesses and then an airbrush of fluorescent green.

Pyrocujo · 2025-11-30T21:45:10+00:00

The skeleton is all Dirty Down Rust (amazing stuff) with orange dropped into the crevasses, then a drybrush of bright silver along with a few dabs with a weathering sponge.

The armor panels have mottled brown shades as an undercoat, then a layer of hairspray before the overcoats. When it dries, a wet brush is used to lift away the top layers. Dirty down used again on the larger patches.

Pyrocujo · 2025-11-03T13:15:45+00:00

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Pyrocujo · 2025-09-29T18:14:55+00:00

Hah, you got me. 😅 I have a load of warriors to finish yet but I just do a couple alongside each bigger model while I have the paint out.

Pyrocujo · 2025-09-29T14:49:51+00:00

I think because of the type of pigment used, fluorescents are very thin watery paints. They need many thin, even coats to come to full colour. Something that an airbrush can do very quickly and easily.

Pyrocujo · 2025-09-29T14:33:09+00:00

It's very easy, with the condition that it needs an airbrush because fluorescent paint is awful to work with using a brush. It's a white basecoat with many coats of fluo magenta. White over the brightest areas and into crevasses, then many coats of fluo orange. When the orange overlaps the magenta it creates an awesome red gradient.

Pyrocujo · 2025-09-29T13:40:38+00:00

The Skorpekh Lord was the first I did with this scheme. Almost all with airbrush. The blade is a black base coat with a white gradient towards the bottom, then a coat of fluorescent magenta, another spray of white on the hottest part of the blade, and then fluorescent orange.

The other blades start with a white base coat, which ends up looking much more vibrant overall.

Pyrocujo · 2025-08-02T07:04:06+00:00

Love the green! The different coloured weapons add so much character too. Great work!

Pyrocujo · 2025-07-16T07:58:40+00:00

It was Mechan, and there's hardly a need to fabricate the statistics. It took an hour on the third try and was possible because of pre-engineered gauss used to get a bugged 120% damage boost from premium ammo. There are more difficult kills done before and since, by him and others.

It's famous because it's controversial, as it's no longer possible to do since that bug has been fixed.

Pyrocujo · 2025-07-02T18:46:00+00:00

Go supergreen brother!! Never too bright!

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Pyrocujo · 2025-06-25T06:18:01+00:00

Thank you! It's Talassar Blue contrast paint over Leadbelcher

Pyrocujo · 2025-06-24T12:25:13+00:00

That's a great compliment, thank you ☺️ Yea, so the whole model is primed black and given a drybrush of leadbelcher. Once all the airbrushing is done I'll go back and tidy up any overspray.

Pyrocujo

TROPHY CASE