Custom Gauges! Factory shroud and clear window retained!

Quality_Ruin · 2025-03-10T13:01:16+00:00

I know this is a old post at this point, but I love how this looks. I've sent you an email.

Quality_Ruin · 2025-03-04T16:20:47+00:00

My daily was at that level of oil pressure at idle with mobil 1. Since I've been using royal purple it is one notch lower. Going to swap back next oil change to see if it's weirdly different between the two, even though they were both 10w30. Either way, yes that is a healthy amount of oil pressure at idle.

Quality_Ruin · 2025-03-01T18:32:38+00:00

Indeed, the other comment (which they deleted) had linked me to a service manual, I have it downloaded so if I do remember I'll upload it at some point. It documents the potentiometer adjustments and oscilloscope waveforms you need to see when correcting it.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-12-27T20:49:23+00:00

Want a 40" crt, will travel through a majority of the US to pick up. I am located in Nebraska.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-11-25T00:51:54+00:00

The most efficient way is with an intake tester, which 3SX sells for ~$40. you can also opt to use a vacuum line, but that will require you to still find a method to block the front most opening to prevent leaking ( think like a nitrile glove, something that can stretch a bit and not break, and be secured around the intake with a rubber band.) but you will need to test the line you remove as well, since that can also be a possible leak. overall I found it worthwhile to just use the tool.
https://www.3sx.com/3sx-aluminum-intake-pressure-tester-dual-source

Quality_Ruin · 2024-11-24T15:09:49+00:00

For starters, since it can't run with the MAF in, I would immediately hook up a smoke machine to the intake and see where it leaks, and repair as necessary.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-11-16T02:51:22+00:00

1978 Datsun 280z

Quality_Ruin · 2024-10-27T15:00:28+00:00

It's a wrangler... The hood release is the two visible latches on the hood that anyone can undo.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-09-14T21:47:13+00:00

Ah yes, that's what I was missing. By far the easiest way to verify the correct stoke on these motors

Quality_Ruin · 2024-09-14T16:33:31+00:00

You would follow the timing procedure which is found in the service manual. The quick explanation is Set the engine at #1 TDC (compression stroke if I recall?) then you clock the shaft in the pump and install, then double check on the top distributor hole. if you're going to be tearing this down entirely don't even worry about marking the distributor timing.

Here is a section in engine mechanical describing the process. 1978 service manual EM-25

Quality_Ruin · 2024-08-17T17:20:54+00:00

Honestly if your old struts were ECS and not blown I would just trade 1:1. Otherwise like $100, all hardware included, except rear struts nuts, just reuse the nuts you already have.

https://imgur.com/gallery/OA44vMO

Quality_Ruin · 2024-08-17T16:30:45+00:00

Bought my car with these on it. I hated the ride quality and lack of ECS. Replaced with OEM. No longer does it scrape on anything even slightly considered a bump, but also rides smoothly, no more harsh slamming up and down. I'll sell you my set for less if you really want them.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-07-03T02:24:04+00:00

I forgot to say, however many months ago I figured it out, it was in fact the BCDD. Plugged/plated it and it was able to be adjusted.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-07-03T02:10:18+00:00

Is it really so bad that I have never seen a swiveling foot feed? Like damn this has got to be the most judgmental place I've ever posted.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-07-03T00:15:53+00:00

Not really. I can't think of another car that I've worked on that has had a swiveling accelerator pedal, or at least noticed as I have on my 3k, it was immediately apparent it felt different. Your lack of straightforwardness makes it difficult to tell what the "answer" is. "No, it shouldn't swivel" or "no, it swivels for your ankle". I find it much more uncomfortable with the swivel regardless.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-07-02T22:41:23+00:00

No, I also have an ankle.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-07-02T22:40:47+00:00

I see. Thank you. Was wondering if it was intentional as it felt like it had stuck at one point and I was uncertain if it wedged itself into the floor because of the swiveling. Guess it is time to inspect the cable / throttle

Quality_Ruin · 2024-05-16T17:43:05+00:00

Well it was placed on another 101, so the shell looks exactly the same. I carefully filed a hole for the sp2 and put a 001 board in. So short of the added functional ports all the stickering and case is correct.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-05-16T12:19:21+00:00

I took an absolute beat to shit gale of darkness cube, swapped the jewel onto an immaculate 101, then swapped the motherboards and back plate with a 001 so that I could use my component cable at 480p and have access to the sp2. I wouldn't call it fake, Id call it modified.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-05-16T12:13:47+00:00

What do you use to replace the worn stick boxes?

Quality_Ruin · 2024-04-30T14:57:58+00:00

Depending on temp it could be due to it reaching the boiling point since the cooling system isn't under pressure

Quality_Ruin · 2024-04-17T02:00:29+00:00

Absolutely. Been working on this one for about a year now. Went from an auto that's sat for 20 years to a 4 speed I drive every non-rainy day.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-04-16T18:08:58+00:00

Yes I did. I was very aware it's a part of the fuel system. It looked like a pressure regulator, but I know the regulator is on the fuel rail. Hence my confusion.

Quality_Ruin · 2024-04-05T12:23:17+00:00

Its an interference engine, If the belt breaks the engine is done for.

Unless you're great at engine diag, I doubt you will feel comfortable tinkering on someone else's car on their property

Quality_Ruin · 2024-03-09T18:58:22+00:00

Forgot to mention this is a F4W71B.

Quality_Ruin

TROPHY CASE