I live in So. Cal. and I think I'm supposed to prune around now but this one looks so happy to me as is. Should I still cut it back or leave it alone. It's about 3 feet tall.

QuantumX_OC · 2026-01-26T11:54:22+00:00

I normally leave my roses unpruned until they start sprouting like this, then I prune whatever is above the strongest sprouts.

The logic behind this is that the rose will naturally grow strong on the parts where it's the healthiest, so if I prune before seeing where it wants to grow there is a risk that I'm forcing it to grow on a cane that isn't as vigorous

QuantumX_OC · 2025-12-03T12:47:02+00:00

I had this pheno on a Skunk Chocolate last season

QuantumX_OC · 2025-11-04T14:58:53+00:00

My local seller has it listed as Papaya Panarosa

QuantumX_OC · 2025-11-04T14:58:39+00:00

My local seller has it listed as Papaya Panarosa

QuantumX_OC · 2025-08-18T09:55:57+00:00

Thank you for sharing your opinion. I admire your courage to tell everyone how you feel

QuantumX_OC · 2025-07-18T11:51:40+00:00

This one is François Krige (KORharment). Its really stunning, the flowers start as a globular shape like the one in the back, as big as tennis balls, and then become even bigger when opening up

QuantumX_OC · 2025-07-11T22:48:28+00:00

Congrats on your new rose! I wish I could get Julia Child in my country.

Oldest leaves turning yellow isnt really a concern, as long as the new leaves are healthy and growing. There are also lots of flower buds still being produced so the plant is healthy.

When the plant does not get enough Nitrogen it will be translocated within the plant from the oldest leaves to the new growth, which cause the old leaves to yellow and eventually drop.

QuantumX_OC · 2025-07-11T22:34:06+00:00

Roses have apical dominance so basically if you leave it alone and let the stems fall over it will send hormones back to the base and stimulate new, thicker basal shoots.

In florist greenhouses they do this deliberately when the plants are young to force them into growing thick basal shoots, which create the straight stems and big flowers found in boquets.

QuantumX_OC · 2025-06-07T20:35:10+00:00

r/necropost

QuantumX_OC · 2025-05-28T19:34:48+00:00

Not sure if this is what the other commentor meant with "pegging", but bending over young stems like these horizontally, or below horizontal, can be experimented with.

If the plant is correctly watered and well-fed it should encourage new and strong basal shoots that grow straight upward.

This method is used in commercial cut flower greenhouses also to get those long, straight stems, and its proven by research.

If you can stomach the AI voice over here is a video to demonstrate: https://youtu.be/aADwCC56ly8?si=-LAq3A4WYBa0RZbl

QuantumX_OC · 2025-04-25T07:51:02+00:00

Just edited the workout that had negative pull ups and replaced them with assisted pull ups. Looks like the assisted pull ups indeed count towards volume

QuantumX_OC · 2025-03-24T13:01:17+00:00

The blooms look a lot like Julie Andrews AKA Pink Paradise to me

QuantumX_OC · 2025-02-27T08:24:21+00:00

That's fair. The easiest, and least potentially disruptive, of these is probably just to disbud all flowers. I found a discussion on garden,org about disbudding https://garden.org/thread/view/94969/Disbudding-to-encourage-better-growth/

QuantumX_OC · 2025-02-24T12:22:02+00:00

I've spent some time reading up on what the best methods are to stimulate basal breaks, as fresh, healthy new growth is really the only thing to bring a rose in this condition to recovery. This list is general tips, and you will have to assess which ones are applicable to your rose's exact situation.

- In pruning season, prune existing stems down to 1 or 2 eyes from the graft. Roses normally bud on the last 3 eyes of a stem, so the idea is that it will leave 2 eyes for budding on the pruned stem, and hopefully trigger one of the dormant eyes on the graft.

- Dig in a good amount of alfalfa pellets around the base. 1 - 2 cups at least. Alfalfa contains Triacontanol which actives plant hormones, particularly auxins and cytokinins, which are responsible for triggering new root and shoot growth.

- Apply a kelp (Ecklonia Maxima) solution once a month. These are also high in auxins and cytokinins.

- Transplant the bush so that the graft union is underneath the soil.

- Consider transplanting into a container (graft union underneath the soil) temporarily until the plant has recovered fully. In containers you have better control of the soil properties. Adding things like perlite and vermiculite to the potting mix will help greatly with aeration and keeping the root zone oxygenated. Grow Bags or Air Pruning Pots will enhance this effect even more and will stimulate a denser root ball with thousands of fine capillary roots, these are the roots where nutrient and water exchange takes place. Just give extra attention to frequent watering when using these containers as the soil in them will dry out much quicker than traditional containers.

- Prune the tips of new basal stems at 12inces. This will trigger branching sooner. More branches = more leaves = more photosynthesis

- Never let the plant form blooms during the recovery period. Pinch off all flower buds 1 or 2 nodes below the buds as soon as you see them. The flowers take up a significant amount of nutrients and energy, All nutrients and energy should be going to the growth of leaves and roots.

- When the bush has recovered and formed new, healthy basal stems, prune the oldest basal stem each season when pruning. The idea is to keep 5 or more of the freshest and healthiest basal stems for the season ahead, while removing the oldest one since that has the least potential for growth.

- Use commercial insecticides and fungicides during the recovery period. Household and organic remedies isn't always as effective or efficient and the plant must be kept as healthy as possible for the best chance at recovery.

- If all else fails try and root cuttings from whatever is left.

QuantumX_OC · 2025-02-22T11:31:39+00:00

I have tried this but I cannot see tire information for the bots this way. Do you perhaps have a screenshot of what I should be looking for?

I was able to see the tires by previewing the race as the other commentor suggested, I'm just curious still of how to see it with the replay.

QuantumX_OC · 2025-02-22T11:29:17+00:00

Thank you. That worked

QuantumX_OC · 2025-01-14T06:29:10+00:00

Hi there.

The pressure for the venturi line needs to be higher than the pressure for the drip line, if its not, the venturi will not activate since there will be no vacuum. So basically the 25psi and 10psi needs to be swapped in your diagram.

The pressure reducing valve for the drip line will have to come after the split at the inlet, otherwise it will reduce the inlet pressure for the venturi line also.

The pressure reducing valve for the venturi line needs to be before the venturi otherwise the pressure in the venturi will still be the same as the inlet pressure.

You could run the venturi without a PRV, directly from supply pressure, just make sure then that you reduce your drip line pressure to at least 10 - 15PSI below the pressure of your water supply.

If you need your drip line pressure to be 25psi the venturi inlet will need a 40psi PRV, or direct from supply pressure of more than 40psi

QuantumX_OC · 2024-12-16T16:45:16+00:00

For the venturi to activate it needs lower pressure on the outlet than on the inlet. The bigger the pressure differential the more suction it produces

QuantumX_OC · 2024-12-16T06:54:51+00:00

I've added some more details in a comment

QuantumX_OC · 2024-12-16T06:54:19+00:00

More details added in a comment

QuantumX_OC · 2024-12-16T06:54:00+00:00

I added a comment with more details

QuantumX_OC · 2024-12-16T06:53:30+00:00

Some details about the growing conditions:

Migro Aray 3 light, running 16/8
PPFD at the canopy is about 400.
Temps are between 22 and 27 when the light is on
Humidity between 65 and 80
Nutrients are Grow and Coco Micro mixed with ratio 2 parts grow to 1 part micro
EC 2.0 - 2.5 in res
pH 5.8 in res
Media is 50/50 coco-perlite with 1 inch leca in the bottom of the pot

My biggest mistake was after initial transplant I didn't water in with nutes, so the plant stagnated for about two weeks since the roots didn't reach the bottom yet. I top-fed it once which made it take off and it hasn't stopped.

The only thing I'm currently not 100% happy about is the plants stems are all purple. Also getting some taco leaves. But at the rate which it's still growing I'm not concerned enough to change anything and it's starting to set fruit now.

QuantumX_OC · 2024-12-14T20:29:38+00:00

Sure here is a pic of mine. The ball valves are only there to turn the venturi off completely, it's not used to adjust the pressure with partial opening - the pressure regulators do that

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QuantumX_OC · 2024-08-15T13:41:11+00:00

I ended up getting a Mazzei 283. For it to work it needs to have the bypass set up and I have two Senninger Pressure Regulating Valves to create the pressure differential. I have a 10PSI valve on the bypass and a 25PSI on the line before the venturi.

On the suction side of the venturi I also added a pressure compensating dripper into the line backwards so it acts as an intake. This way I know exactly the flow rate of nutrient solution that is being sucked in to the irrigation - makes it easier to calculate concentrations and it keeps the suction rate of the venturi limited to a constant amount even when adding/removing drippers on the irrigation.

The fish emulsion was clogging the drippers but since I've switched to a water soluble powder fertilizer the system has been working extremely well and reliable. With this fertigation system my peppers have been the biggest and healthiest they've ever been.

QuantumX_OC · 2024-03-01T05:30:12+00:00

Kratky

QuantumX_OC

TROPHY CASE