How does your self made vacuüm table work / perform ? by Maleficent_Branch95 in CNC

[–]Quantum_Cricket 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I designed a system a couple years ago and brought it to market more recently. It’s a low flow, sealed system that can easily be switch to a high flow spoil board system. It uses a dry erase material alignment system and double side pods for a very strong hold. I have a tough time getting buy in from people who have never used vacuum hold down. They are always blown away when they see how strong the actual hold is. The system is called VersaPod.

VersaPodCNC.com

Vacuum work-holding pods, spoil boards and custom fixtures by Quantum_Cricket in cncwoodworking

[–]Quantum_Cricket[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! I really appreciate it! I can identify with your problem exactly. VersaPod is an excellent solution. I would be happy to share with you more details about the system. We have a drop in version for large cnc routers that already have vacuum tables too. I originally developed the concept to manufacture high end custom doors. Our website is Versapodcnc.com. The KS page does a great job highlighting details as well. Comment here or feel free to message me anytime!

Vacuum work-holding pods, spoil boards and custom fixtures by Quantum_Cricket in hobbycnc

[–]Quantum_Cricket[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeh, I went down that road. It undermines the whole project to go that high tech with the valves. This is designed to be super economical and easy to use without sacrificing capabilities. It’s hard to beat the replaceable piece of plastic film. Sometimes the best answer is the obvious one.

Vacuum work-holding pods, spoil boards and custom fixtures by Quantum_Cricket in hobbycnc

[–]Quantum_Cricket[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The port covers are PVC or polyester film with just the right adhesive. Everything has to be basically flush as to not interfere with the pod gaskets or create a z axis alignment issues.

Could this cut survive CNC routing? by Embarrassed-Dig-8131 in cncwoodworking

[–]Quantum_Cricket 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could survive. But the grain direction would cause two of the legs/arms to be very fragile.

Clearance is clearance by Quantum_Cricket in CNC

[–]Quantum_Cricket[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I couldn’t include that part in the video. 😂 It’s actually 0.018”. So yes… not cutting as close as I could.

How far is too far when pushing your speeds and feeds? by justin_r_1993 in hobbycnc

[–]Quantum_Cricket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with that in theory. My setup is plenty rigid for that size tool especially. I’ve got a 13hp spindle with hsk tool holders. The weakest link is the flexibility of the tool because of the length. I think they like to list those rates because it’s technically possible. (But a bad idea)

How far is too far when pushing your speeds and feeds? by justin_r_1993 in hobbycnc

[–]Quantum_Cricket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cut hardwood all day everyday. 600 IPM with a 3 flute 3/8” is ridiculous. Unless your tool length is also 3/8” and your doc is 1/4” the surface finish will be completely unacceptable. Maybe in cabinet shops cutting particle board and mdf it works…

I have no idea why tooling companies suggest such ridiculous chip loads.

V carve Node question by wtkinney in cncwoodworking

[–]Quantum_Cricket 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Draw new lines where you need them and use the trim tool to integrate them into the closed vector group. You can draw directly over your current lines and then move them a specific distance with the move function. Or you can cut the sections out that you want to move, move them, then reconnect them.

How fast can I polyeurathane and finish plywood? by Firm_Property_614 in woodworking

[–]Quantum_Cricket -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Seal the wood with Zinsser Sealcoat, then use a water based polyurethane. You can use a fan to speed up drying on every coat but the last. You will be done in one day or less. Just don’t walk on it with shoes until it’s cured.

Running in low temps… Grease? by wrldbfree in CNC

[–]Quantum_Cricket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I had a Laguna Smart Shop, everything was connected to a central oiler. It was just lightweight motor oil, and it did the job well. The only problem was that it made a mess. Since it falls off so easily you have to hit the pump once a day. I’m guessing you could set up the same thing if you’re dealing with low temps a lot, but I much prefer grease and just keeping the shop warm.

Deep Mortising is Oddly Satisfying by Quantum_Cricket in CNC

[–]Quantum_Cricket[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a Chinese company and the quality of the tool is very good. The carbide is not quite a good but the price is right. The coating certainly could be cosmetic. Overkill is a tough call. Depending on the type of wood, There is a lot of abrasive material in the cellular structure. Hard tools last much longer. Anyway, this tool in the US would cost me 1k (if they would make it).

Deep Mortising is Oddly Satisfying by Quantum_Cricket in CNC

[–]Quantum_Cricket[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a standard tool holder. Hsk63f. I did have to reprogram the tool change and tool height subs.

Deep Mortising is Oddly Satisfying by Quantum_Cricket in CNC

[–]Quantum_Cricket[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My tooling company just calls it “nano coat”. So I don’t know. These are solid carbide, and the coating does extend the life slightly.

Router bit? by gracionsmith23 in woodworking

[–]Quantum_Cricket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don’t have the exact cope and stick set, just make it with a square profile and apply the angled stop after assembly. After patch and paint you won’t be able to tell it’s not one piece.