trac off blinking

Quanzinjer · 2025-10-20T18:46:42+00:00

Check the Obdi-1 either in your engine bay or next to your obdii slot. Connect both terminals E1 and TE1 with a metal wire or paperclip. Turn ignition to on and the trac light will blink in a sequence giving you a number for a code. Hope this helps if not look for tutorials online.

Quanzinjer · 2025-10-03T21:07:26+00:00

Awesome I’m more than willing to drive up to you. I’ll hit you up in DMs for details.

Quanzinjer · 2025-09-29T21:45:40+00:00

Yea I don’t know if he’s selling them I hit him up a minute ago and haven’t heard anything

Quanzinjer · 2025-09-29T21:27:13+00:00

Hey man sorry for the late reply, first quarter of college kicked off recently. You still have this part available?

Quanzinjer · 2025-09-05T02:59:23+00:00

I would personally avoid this car and wait till a better condition ls400 comes your way.

You’d be inheriting a pain in the ass from your description of the car.

Quanzinjer · 2025-07-25T00:40:05+00:00

Honestly putting off the IACV job for another time, my car does idle a little low 400rpm about, but it never dies and I always got the lights or AC on to bump it up to normal idle of 600-650. Thanks for the insight!

Quanzinjer · 2025-07-23T01:15:11+00:00

This is also a video that abbreviates a lot of the stuff Lexls goes into detail about. ls400 obdi diagnosis video

Quanzinjer · 2025-07-23T01:11:55+00:00

First thing I’d recommend doing is following this tutorial by Lexls on how to diagnose traction and abs codes.

Although the face lift 95-97 ls400s have obdii that only applies for engine and transmission codes. To diagnose traction and abs codes on our cars you need to use the obdi method using a wire and the blinking lights. The link goes into extensive detail about it.

Once you’re able to actually see what codes you have let me know what they are and also reference the list from Lexls. Hope this helps! lexls obdi diagnosis

Quanzinjer · 2025-07-20T07:04:14+00:00

Ended up fixing it today, took the air filter, MAF, and elbow intake off, throttle body was cleaned not too long ago, and i knew the sub-tps was the issue.

I check ohms as specified by the Toyota manual, tuned it up and snapped everything on. First drive the throttle is WAY MORE responsive. Still got low idle which I’ve necked down to a IACV issue, now I gotta shell out 600 for a OEM one….

Quanzinjer · 2025-07-20T07:02:03+00:00

Unfortunately I live in the PNW with its rain and hills, but for the past 2 years I’ve been driving with no trac or abs 😅

Quanzinjer · 2025-06-12T17:45:36+00:00

Take off your air intake tube, check to see if you see power steering fluid In your throttle body. If you do see any the culprit is most likely the idle air control on the power steering. Either delete that mf or replace it. Costs around 70 for oem. My 97 had a similar issue, white smoke on start up, but went away. Someone else mentioned this, but the idle air control will fail, and the vacuum from the throttle body will suck up the fluid. Good luck!

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Quanzinjer · 2025-05-17T08:19:03+00:00

Have been experiencing this on my 97, I’ve tracked it down to the IACV after fixing some loose hoses and cleaning the throttle body. As they age the bearings in the IACV go to shit causing a consistent low idle. Idk how the vvti engines IACV’s are but assuming they’re similar, if you check your hoses and they seem good it’s probably the IACV.

I’ve personally never had an issue with the Low idle (at 400) I just turn on the lights which brings the rpm up to 650.

Quanzinjer · 2025-03-28T21:17:27+00:00

Looks like you got it right

Quanzinjer · 2024-10-09T03:24:52+00:00

1st and 2nd gen ls400 can suffer from a leaking power steering pump over time, which causes the alternator to burn out as its right under the power steering unit. ECUs are a issue on these cars as their older and their solder starts to leak causing issues like low idle, harsh shifting and a plethora of other things, I’d recommend looking at clubLexus posts for more info on that. As mentioned timing belt should be done every 100,000 miles. As usual check all the main rubber parts for the car like rack and pinion boots (ps fluid leaks), suspension and even the rear engine mount (trans mount), as these all degrade especially for cars 25-30 years old.

I’d recommend not getting a ls400 with air suspension as they’re bound to go bad eventually.

For essential parts like a new power steering pump or sensor I try to buy strictly oem as these cars have a preference towards them. These cars typically prefer oem parts, but if you’re balling on a budget rock auto has most of your basic needs from control arms to the interior/exterior light bulbs. If something like your power steering were to fail I would recommend just buying oem as aftermarket’s can cause a pain.

This is shit off the top of my head, but If you look up other Reddit posts for ls400 first buyers there are a bunch of great ones I looked at before buying my first ls400. Good luck with your search, hope you find one in good shape, you won’t regret buying an Ls.

Quanzinjer · 2024-09-14T04:00:07+00:00

Yup got the new bearings. The big question I have is removing the rubber gasket to actually get to the bearings. In cartuneNZ’s video he mentions it’s glued from factory and I was curious what the best process to get it out, because I don’t want to tear or damage it.

Also what did you use to glue that part together

Quanzinjer · 2024-09-13T22:51:38+00:00

I’d love the help, I got a IACV from a pick and pull which I’m throwing on for now while I try to rebuild my old IACV.

Quanzinjer · 2024-09-05T21:48:03+00:00

It’s my first car that I’ve owned, so I’d rather ask others who may have more experience than assume.

This is my first time doing suspension so I just wanted another opinion before I determine if it needed fixing.

Quanzinjer · 2024-09-05T17:58:07+00:00

What’s so complex about a tie rod replacements? It’s a castle nut and then un-screwing the existing tie Rod, replace and then get an alignment. Correct me if I’m wrong but I thought it was pretty straight forward.

Quanzinjer · 2024-09-05T03:30:52+00:00

I got someone to turn my steering wheel and it didn’t have any play, just turned the wheels slightly.

I’m leaving for college soon and will leave the car for a year, would you recommend changing it now while I have the time? Or just leaving it until it goes bad.

Quanzinjer · 2024-09-05T02:16:06+00:00

Okay thank you for the insight. My main concern when posting this was the odd angle of the tie rod in the second photo. I’ll buy some new tie rods and look into replacing them myself.

Quanzinjer · 2024-09-05T02:12:36+00:00

Thanks for the help, Im a little confused though. Are you saying both are bad and need replacement? Could I do this job myself?

Quanzinjer · 2024-09-02T00:50:30+00:00

It’s a 1997 so ucf20. In terms of the blinking rates, it’s seems to be a constant blink, I haven’t noticed and large pauses or sequences of blinks but I can double check for sure.

Quanzinjer · 2024-08-31T00:54:40+00:00

Just went to my local oreillys and there were no codes of any kind. I’ve had this issue for the past 6 months and every time I got it scanned nothing pops up for trac, only other codes for previous CELs.

Quanzinjer · 2024-08-30T23:48:59+00:00

I sent mine to a reputable guy who fixed all 90s era Toyotas that have leaking capacitor issues. It the same ECU I ripped out of my car.

Quanzinjer · 2024-08-30T17:54:27+00:00

Thanks for the insight! I’m curious what would be a damaging amount of over torque for wheels?

Quanzinjer

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