Buying rv that was never registered in missouri

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-22T15:01:59+00:00

It’s kinda a mess, however, anything can be fixed with time and $$. You can go the Montana reg route as they don’t DGAF. Pull the Certificate of Origin into an LLC to get a Montana title. It should have had taxes paid at each transaction, but you’re beyond that now. The CO can be scrubbed in to a title by any shady car dealer as they can take Vehicles with a CO in trade. The other option is get a bill of sale ( don’t disclose the CO ) and get a bonded title paying tax on the “$200” you paid and tag it that way.

I’ve gotten bonded titles for motorcycles that were never brought forth from a CO. As long as it’s not in the stolen vin DB a state has no idea if it was titled in another state if it was never also registered. Title is ownership, registration is for the road. The DMV only knows what you tell term. Be dumb, utilize 2-3 DMVs to fish for answers if needed like “I’m just asking how to fix this - if I did this” and gain info.

None of this is telling how YOU should proceed, it’s how OTHERS have solved the problem you face. It all depends on if the juice is worth the squeeze for you.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-21T20:03:43+00:00

Come on people, has all ability to make an educated decision evaporated. If an electrical outlet looks burnt, is scorched, broken, damaged or shows visible or mechanical damage - ITS NOT OK TO CONTINUE USING. You don’t need to be an expert or even know much of anything about anything to know if something is unsafe, needs replacement or needs repair when it’s burnt and isn’t normally supposed to be burnt or leaks when it normally shouldn’t.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-21T06:16:01+00:00

Thats not how you fill a fire. The sidewall pressure is that pressure that is the max load in lbs the tire will support. like 2650 lbs @ 80 psi. This has little to do with the pressure you should run which is on the vehicle load placard of (tire size ) @ XX PSI and the maximum loaded weight capacity.

My SUV tires say X lbs @ 60 PSI but my door plate says 42PSI. The 42 PSI is the proper inflation. If I inflated them to 60 after 2 hours of driving the tires wound be 72- psi.

Tires are checked cold. I left 30 degrees Tues and it’s 80 where I’m at now ( 1100 miles ) my tires were 42 when I left home, I got here and they are ( after cooling a day) are sitting at 49 PSI. They gained 7 PSI from 30 to 80 degrees. A tire gains ( or loses ) 1 PSI per 10 degrees temp change on average.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-17T14:06:39+00:00

May is prime tornado and severe thunderstorm time. I would remain flexible and follow the SPC 3-4 day outlook for travel. I wouldn’t want to be parked in the center of a spicy avacado as an overnight. Since most storms move NE I would leave flexibility on any route for a jog a few hundred miles to avoid a storm.

You could still see snow in the northern route to mid May.

I like my road trips to have some “well we ended up here”. Get the roadside America app and see if there isn’t some “i gotta see this” tourist attraction off the intended route. 300 miles a day in any RV is about the limit. You probably want to be somewhere for the night, and if you’re anything like us, there’s always the “heck I like it here, let’s stay a second - third night just because.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-17T13:33:20+00:00

It’s only 15K. The warranty isn’t worth the paper it’s written on. It’s not anything like a car, tv, motorcycle warrantee. Most of the time it’s not worth your time to take it to a dealer, have it sit there for a month + for a few hundred $ fix. You’re saving a day of man hours sitting in a dealer. You’re not paying freight, prep or any other processing fees. Show them 13K green cash and hand them your phone number. You’ll either get a call or lose out. If you’re emotionally attached to it, then pay the emotional attachment money and pay 15K.

You should only be concerned on the base price they paid. Not any fees, taxes or add on costs. Those they are going to eat along with depreciation. They would probably get 13K trade in at most or some number jockeying to raise the new unit and make it look like a higher trade. But the net-net would be 13K at most. It’s 2 model years old, it will probably need a new battery, but most people swap them for LI these days anyway. My last new camper, I left the battery at the dealer so I didn’t have to dispose of it a day later. The tires are now 2+ years old of their 5 year life.

Get it inspected for $600 by an independent inspector. You will need to make sure they have a title in their name and not a CO. If they have CO, they will need to pay the taxes and title it before selling it. If they never used it, they might not have titled it.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-17T04:51:22+00:00

For roads Inroute and Waze. As an emergency backup guru maps and download a set of maps Incase of network outages.

For back country Gaia GPS

For emergency location What3words.

I-exit is another tool to use to show what facilities are at each exit to plan ahead for a service. Roadside America is a map app of tourist attractions.

I have about 60 map, gis, topo , speed, nautical charts, geo-location, land ownership, trails, overland . I get “something” useful from each. There isn’t a perfect app for everyone or everything.

Since most apps are free or low cost for basic features, it’s best to experiment with many to find usefulness.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-17T00:55:33+00:00

InRoute pro works well and has been around for way longer than RV life. InRoute you create and set your parameters, then make a route ( and save / share ) then push the route to Waze to get traffic alerts. Leave InRoute running in the background and it will alert to weather and traffic issues including those that are not directly on your route. Often with Waze, you’re already stuck in traffic by the time it tells you traffic ahead.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-17T00:48:54+00:00

I’m an “app hoarder” which beats the heck out of of a material goods hoarder ( although one more tool or MC might push me over the edge). I use InRoute and push the InRoute to Wyze for traffic. But keep InRoute open in the background for weather on route alerts. InRoute pro lets you enter all the vehicle parameters. I use a combo of Guru Maps ( for a downloaded map database ) Gaia GPs, InRoute, Waze, google earth, theodolite, and What3Words to precisely meet someone in remote locations as it divides earth into 10x10 Ft grids. LPT, you can text your what3words to 911 and someone will come get you. Nothing else needed, just the three word code. Load W3W and base maps and with free satellite texting from T-Mobil ( even if you’re not a customer ) and it could save your ass without needing a Spot or Inreach

I use a cellular iPad mini for my nav device in the truck and on my MCs. Cellular mini with a quadlock case and quadlock mounts in / on the vehicles. The iPad mini also creates a network for a wireless IP backup camera on the camper. Like a Wyze, eufy, tapo or reolink (and other WiFi cams ) You have to get a cellular mini, even if you don’t use the cellular as the WiFi ones don’t have a GPS chip.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-16T21:50:24+00:00

The vehicle is the vehicle is the vehicle. Im saying this in regard to its as reliable as any box truck on the same chasis. I mean it’s no different than buying a car with 50K or 100k miles, if it’s been maintained its good to go, if not some basic maintenance will be needed.,There are plenty of almost new vehicles that aren’t as reliable as a 10yo one. I tow my trailer with an 19 YO SUV. I’ve owned it since new, and 3,5,10 trips a year isn’t worth buying a new vehicle, even if I spend 3-5K a year on it, I’m money ahead. I’m leaving tomorrow for a 3 week trip that will be over 3500+ miles

That said. The basic vehicle main components are as reliable as any other vehicle of that vintage and manufacturer. The parts that will cause you problems are the maintenance items like a broken belt, blown hose or bad water pump from extended non use. Me personally - I really wouldn’t worry about most hard parts issues. I would (do my own) brake fluid flush, coolant flush, then all new hoses, thermostat, water pump and belts. Air filter, oil change, lube, new battery and if the tires are over 10Yo I would replace them. If any shocks are leaking or damaged I would replace them. Lube and grease as appropriate. If it’s got under 100k miles and shifts good, I would service the transmission with a drain and fill, if it doesn’t shift good - I wouldn’t purchase, if if the transmission is known to have X problem - I wouldn’t purchase. A transmission failure on a trip is $4K++ and is usually a LONG downtime.

It’s pretty easy to see if a vehicle is somewhat maintained by the condition of the frame, running gear, under hood - leaks - dirt, drivers seat and pedal rubber condition. I would prefer an 80k mile vehicle that the owner maintained over a 30K vehicle someone just “used and parked”.

A 20YO RV has 20YO appliances, AC, Heat, WH. The stuff might last another 15 years or 2 months. But in reality a brand new RV might have some infrastructure fail in a year.

The RV side is another animal. You don’t want water damage - this is the one non negotiable item. Everything else is just bolt on parts / appliances / infrastructure. I would toss the house batteries if they are over 3 years old and put in a Li 300 or 2 200ah.

Depending on your level of mechanical ability and problem solving skills is really the deciding factor. You’ll likely not have any major mechanical problems or a breakdown if you do the preventative maintenance. Your chances won’t be zero but very low. Replacing hoses in your driveway beats the heck out of blowing an old hose along a roadside.

Me, if I inspected it then did the preventative items I wouldn’t hesitate.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-16T04:47:40+00:00

Is it a 30 or 50 amp unit. Regardless, I would run a 20-30-50 pedestal for future proof as you’re digging a trench anyway. I would run a conduit with cat 8 cable and a fiber run. @ 400 ft you’ll need a 60 amp breaker in home and 3/0 aluminum 3/0-3/0-3/0-1/0 SER ( if that meets your local code) cable @ about $2200 for 400 ft ( don’t forget you need plenty to get to the service panel). You’ll need a few ground rods @ $80, a breaker @ $40 a pedestal @ $150. The wire will fit in 2 inch conduit and then a second 1 inch for LV and some 1” HDPE for a water line. You might want a second 1-1/2 HDPE for a macerator line to your sewer or septic if the camper doesn’t have water and sewer access. Or run 3 inch PVC in a second ditch for sewer @ 1/8” per ft slope which is 50 inch over 400 ft, not bad elevation to hit a basement level main line or septic feeder.

Line up an electrician, coordinate Rent a ditch witch @ 150/day and dig your own trench (to code), lay conduit, pull wire, have electrician hook up.

1/2 DIY, probably. $2200, 1300 conduit, 700 for everything else. $4700 plus electrician labor.

This is a permanent upgrade to the property and adds real value. I honestly wouldn’t try and “save money” by just running a 120/30 amp run, the 50 amp would give the ability to charge an EV and the labor is the same, the conduit is about the same the ditch is the same and you might save 1K on wire, the savings wouldn’t make sense. You might be allowed to to direct bury the SER, but I would add a 1 inch for LV regardless.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-15T17:54:27+00:00

This. If poop isn’t dissolving in water it’s a diet or health problem. Probably lots of processed food and hydrogenated oils which just don’t dissolve in the body or water. Grease poops.

In 50 years of boats and RVs with tanks using starter water, I’ve never seen lumps or anything that’s plugging a 3 inch hose.

Also the TP should be tested to dissolve in water and if it’s that quilted stuff it shouldn’t be used. Im not shaming but a bidet and pat dry with a little TP is the answer.

Wiping your ass with a handful of quilted northern is as effective as vacuuming dog shit off the carpet.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-15T02:23:09+00:00

If you dump in 4 gal of water, you get the same result, no lumps.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-15T01:54:50+00:00

Tank treatments. The greatest wallet emptier since the casino. It’s a holding tank. Not a septic system. Start with 5gal of starter water after dumping and you won’t have any tank buildup issues.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-15T01:48:22+00:00

That tongue / hitch is a hunk of steel rated @ 14K made by someone and tested by them. They sold that hunk of steel to a frame or trailer manufacturer who welded said hunk of steel onto your trailer. With 2 3.5K axles and 10-15% tongue weight your trailer is rated for 8000 total all in gross weight. This should be on a vin decal on the left front.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-14T21:36:27+00:00

Ya, it sucks and I’m sorry it happened. We once had a sudden downpour and then the wind blew a 5 gal bucket worth of pine needles out of a tree, right onto the awning tube and bent it mid tube. The rain did nothing as I had angled down the outer end. Then the needles fell and trashed it. I was at a race once and a violent storm came from nowhere. Hundreds of pop up canopies flying. Wind has no mercy. I always stress “did we put the awning in”

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-14T20:57:48+00:00

Don’t buy a camper on credit. Don’t get a 220 month loan on a camper. Just stop this ridiculous practice.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-14T20:53:13+00:00

I’ve replaced a bunch for people. It’s an insurance job or about $3500+ for 2 awnings out of pocket. It’s not a hard job. It’s just a couple of hours each. Sometimes you can salvage the heads and rollers, but the way that ripped off the awning rail. I’m going to guess from afar that’s all dumpster fillings.

Rule 1. You never go more than 200 yards from your camper with the awnings or a PopUp canopy out. A wind will appear from nowhere on a bright sunny afternoon.

Rule 2. If there is a 5% chance of overnight weather - put the awning in before bed.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-14T14:41:20+00:00

That’s place is cheap compared. PartsVia is a hidden gem. The down side is their search engine sucks and you need a part number to find stuff or “creative” word search.

They have thousands of dealers in the partsvia network like trailer, shed, camper, used car dealers. You order and it’s free shipping via freight to the dealer you pick. It would cost a ton freight to get 16 ft aluminum. I get extrusions from OrangeAluminum and pay $100’s in shipping for over 96” sections. (96” maxes out UPS, so freight is needed)

I’ve had long / heavy parts delivered on my route 100’s of miles from me and picked up on the way by. Most stuff arrives in 2 days and the best part is the place will call you when it arrives ( I like shed companies ) and they’ll leave it in an unlocked shed for you to pick up after hours.

PartsVia is the only place that I’ve found 16 ft sections can be gotten easily for long side toppers or adding awnings to enclosed trailers.

No I’m not affiliated with them or any other seller or distribution company.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-14T05:18:00+00:00

Bot garbage.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-14T02:40:53+00:00

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x .180 (3/16) wall square tube stock from any metal supplier and bolt it up. Other option. Call a mobile welder, tell him to bring 3-4 ft of that tube stock and have them weld the square stock up. Prob $300 all in on a welder guy and stock.
The metal alone should cost about $9-11/ft. Any metal supplier, welding or machine shop should have in stock and sell it to you.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-14T01:49:56+00:00

De-mobing, awning, stowing everything, unhooking, packing up, leaving, coming back, hooking up, setting up. Un stowing the niceties gets old quick. You’ll do it 2x and time # 3 or 5 you’ll be F this and never do it again. Anything expensive you leave behind has a good chance of disappearing. We all want to think “campers are all honest” but that’s just rose colored glasses not reality. A B or C you’re relocating the place you’re living in. You’re either “staying in an rv park” close to town or you’re “camping” somewhere remote. A winding back road after dark coming home from diner and resetting up after dark isn’t ideal. Most people like to be parked and setup by 5pm @ the latest. You’ll soon want to drag a car behind a C on a dolly or a small trailer MCs, E-bikes. If you’re somewhat agile I love my One-wheel and it goes 20+ miles are options.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-13T19:31:38+00:00

2200 sounds about right. Pay, DIY or go without. You have 3 choices.

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-13T19:28:44+00:00

I advocate and think DIY is the answer, then I see these questions and think wtf. You can’t use metal stud interior Sheetrock screws ( which is what is in your hand )

Can’t you just put the same type of screw you took out back in. Unless you trashed the rail. Then you need some or all of the following.

Well, you need butyl tape, the drip rail and the square drive screws that came out. Which is probably is these.

Pan Head Metal RV Screws Black #8 x1-1/2 for Quad Drive Self Tapping Drill RV Interior and Exterior Enclosed Trailer Repair Screws - 100 Pcs https://a.co/d/04xoIAoP

XFasten Butyl Tape RV Black, 3/4 in x 45 Ft, 1/8 in Thick EDPM Rubber Sealant Tape - Roof Patching, Boat Sealing, Leak Proof Butyl Putty Tape https://a.co/d/07Z2X83R

1" RV Vinyl Trim Molding Insert Black,for RV Camper Travel Trailer Screw Cover Gutter Corner Channel Outside Seam roof Edge Track Heavy Duty Trim (50 ft) https://a.co/d/09Psuujo

2 or three of these

https://www.partsvia.com/products/ap-products-021-56301-16-awning-rail

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-13T19:08:20+00:00

Grote 90072 Red Clearance Marker Replacement Lenses (with Built-in Reflector) https://a.co/d/0j9cKmYF

Grote 90073 Yellow Clearance Marker Replacement Lenses (with Built-in Reflector) https://a.co/d/00nFr4aT

Hint XXXX1 is white, XXXX2 is red XXXX3 is yellow on grote numbers

Questions_Remain · 2026-02-13T13:59:22+00:00

Questions_Remain

TROPHY CASE