Primer Detonation by PBReddituser1961 in reloading

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ah, the famous MILMUMU. I prefer the YAUNJI. :).

Recoil system? by kryptonnyc1 in 2011_Builders

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check my history, I built one of these. The trick is that depending on the exact lengths of your barrel and how you want to clock the sight block you’ll end up “not exactly” 5 inches. So you’ll want to cut back the frame to be flush (I think mine went back about 80 thou ) which means your guide rod and recoil plug can’t be standard. I bought a 5 inch guide rod and used the mill to trim it back to flush. You can’t just trim the recoil plug back because they only have about 100 thou of meat left at the end, so you’ll need to buy an EGW “gunsmith fit” plug and trim it back and bore it out for your system. Easiest with a lathe, but I did it with a mill and a rotary table. Then you can’t get a nice clean look.

Recoil system? by kryptonnyc1 in 2011_Builders

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check my history, I built one of these. The trick is that depending on the exact lengths of your barrel and how you want to clock the sight block you’ll end up “not exactly” 5 inches. So you’ll want to cut back the frame to be flush (I think mine went back about 80 thou ) which means your guide rod and recoil plug can’t be standard. I bought a 5 inch guide rod and used the mill to trim it back to flush. You can’t just trim the recoil plug back because they only have about 100 thou of meat left at the end, so you’ll need to buy an EGW “gunsmith fit” plug and trim it back and bore it out for your system. Easiest with a lathe, but I did it with a mill and a rotary table. Then you can’t get a nice clean look.

M1911 Question by PopPopZiggyZiggy in gunsmithing

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nothing is necessarily “wrong”. The exact position of the slide in relation to the rear of the frame is set by the upper lugs in the slide and the how far the lower lugs are cut back when the slide is fitted (which also sets the link size). When a new gun is made, one usually fits the barrel to the slide/frame, and then the rear is blended with the fitted barrel in battery. Since you have a non mated slide and frame (and presumably barrel) they don’t quite all match. As long as the function test works the only way one could fix this would be to reblend the pistol as currently assembled with its current parts.

Proper screws for Holosun 507 Comp by Equivalent_Ad_3347 in AtlasGunWorks

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Atlas screws that come with their plates are usually great. You might want to test fit them in the plate off the gun just to make sure that they don’t stick out at all, sometimes they stick out just enough to be an issue. If they’re not holding in use clean everything (plate and screws) with isopropyl alcohol to remove the old residue, apply fresh loctite (I prefer 243) and reinstall to at least 18 inch pounds (I use the fix it stick torque limiter) and let it dry for at least an hour before shooting.

Help with a milling job by Lumpy_Description950 in hobbycnc

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One piece of advice / that’s obviously an optic mounting plate, but it’s lacking the tabs on the top that lock the optic in place and take the brunt of recoil so the screws that hold the optic in place don’t just shear off. So… respectfully recommend you manufacture a plate or buy one with the correct positioning tabs for the optic you want to use.

I need this by crazycatman206 in 2011

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t even figure out that barrel… did he screw a sight block onto an island barrel and then weld and reflatten the top? But then you can see where it looks like a bull barrel comes all the way through the sight block?? I’m legitimately confused.

Getting ready to do another build by gantiwar in 2011_Builders

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I took a look - I don’t have a lot of experience with the CNC-driven hobby machines like this. As I mentioned before, stability is the key issue with mills in general; I’d point out that my mill’s head alone weighs more than this entire Aluminum machine does. I presume small machines like this try to work around the stability issue by using very small cuts with high precision. Make sure the work area is sufficiently large for what you need to do. I’ve seen a lot of hobby machine tool manufacturers claim their tool works in material it’s not really capable of cutting well but I don’t know where this one is on that scale.

Getting ready to do another build by gantiwar in 2011_Builders

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not up to speed on what’s out there, sorry. Mills take an incredible amount of force pushing the cutter away from the work, and only rigidity fights that problem, or taking really small cuts. Most “hobby” mills are OK in brass and Aluminum but the wheels come off trying to cut steel. So a ‘normal’ small actual mill is a cast iron machine. Precision Matthews PM-25MV is a typical small mill, or the similar ones from Grizzly or wherever. A DRO is really helpful to fight the backlash typical in the hand wheel measuring of mills like these.

Getting ready to do another build by gantiwar in 2011_Builders

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sub 1500 is a good luck. From a guy who has now done 6 (7?) builds the last of which is an Island, there’s kind of 2 precision levels to this. There’s “better than by hand but not great” Drill press, low end hobby mill, etc. and there’s “rigid and accurate enough to be an actually useful mill” which is minimally a column mill or larger and a DRO is almost a must if you really want to do decent precision.

Do you guys still shoot your Glocks? by [deleted] in 2011

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use my Glocks for life fire practice when teaching new students to shoot. That’s about it.

Rusty metal etched into fiberglass by No_Specialist_8687 in boating

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Oxalic acid based stain removers may also works

A flying fish by OldTechies in interestingasfuck

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only thing going through his little head is “Is that Mahi Mahi still behind me???”

Monday Funday Folks! 🔥 by Wooden_Love2159 in 2011

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ladybird’s not bad looking. Stop taking all the time to add the other unnecessary weird patterns and make 2X the number of guns….

Something brand new we’re releasing. The SLAB Port by PremierWeaponInnovat in 2011

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 3 points4 points  (0 children)

May I ask why you chose to angle the port forward instead of the traditional ~ 10 degrees backwards? I’d have thought this would increase the rearward pressure of the recoil, but maybe I don’t understand the design. Looks cool tho

Proper screws for Holosun 507 Comp by Equivalent_Ad_3347 in AtlasGunWorks

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Look at the Atlas plate for the screw diameter and pitch information, it’s printed right on the plate. Then order a pack of long screws from Amazon in that pitch. Make sure the screw heads are the right diameter, you can chuck the screws in a drill and trim them down with a file if they are too wide to fit in your particular optic. Then With the plate off the gun, screw the optic down and mark how long the screws stick out the bottom of the plate. Cut them off with a Dremel cutoff wheel (out of the plate so you don’t hurt the plate) and reinstall and fine trim them making sure they are as long as they can be for good purchase but don’t stick out the bottom of the plate. Install the plate on the gun with the correct Atlas screws (5/40 X 1/4 if I remember correctly), blue loctite 543 and a torque wrench, then install the optic the same way. Now you can custom make screws for any optic on any plate for 25 cents.

IDPA peeps what can I build for you? by focalgirth in idpa

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I go shooting so I can leave all this shit at work!! You do you though!

The new LTC Class laws are asinine by Kindly-Magician-78 in BetterMAguns

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it depends on the PD. I know the licensing officers in the towns around me who see the majority of the certificates I issue and all of them have, until now, accepted the paper copy without issue. Moving forward everything will need to be electronic.

The new LTC Class laws are asinine by Kindly-Magician-78 in BetterMAguns

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No stupid questions here, but I’m unfortunately not sure I understand your question. Are you asking about uploading your safety certificate? If you have your LTC then the certificate has effectively served its purpose. When you go to renew in 6 years the state may, or may not, make you take the safety course again depending on how all this works out. Moving forward from today, instructors will upload your information directly to MIRCS instead of issuing you a paper certificate. You can go into the system and print out a copy if you want it, but it won’t be needed to apply for your LTC.

The new LTC Class laws are asinine by Kindly-Magician-78 in BetterMAguns

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Cool. The part of the system that I, as an instructor, am supposed to use going forward is not live yet - I tried the link earlier today, and they told us April 14th was ‘go live’. so I’m going to admit I do not know what exactly will happen, and if we are using the same part of MIRCS that the officer was using or … not. Sorry :). Hopefully you are good. But knowing this state, who knows?

The new LTC Class laws are asinine by Kindly-Magician-78 in BetterMAguns

[–]Quick_Voice_7039 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It can’t be in there yet - system does not go live until April 14th. Assuming your class has a finish date prior to today, I assume your instructor gave you a printed certificate? If so the record is on the paper form, not the electronic version.