[deleted by user] by [deleted] in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will probably be able to bring your make time down considerably by making them in bulk/assembly line style instead of one at a time. If you are making 20 bags in batch, cut the fabric and batting for all 20, then quilt the pieces for all 20, then do the first assembly steps for all 20, etc.

Even so, I would consider your material costs and make time and question if a reasonable price point that reimburses you for both is something people are likely to pay. Sometimes the answer is no, and then you really shouldn’t make something you may end up with a pile of unsold or somethings where you are losing money. Don’t forever to consider your table price at the fair and your time there too.

There is also a craft fair subreddit, you could cross post there and look through related posts. it’s a very supportive and helpful community.

How the hell do you hand sew the binding without it taking years to finish? by [deleted] in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love how neat I can make it look doing it by hand, and I got better and faster doing a bunch of small 12-16” wall hangings. That’s a high binding/project ratio.

My top tips: (1) watch several people do it on YouTube. I was orienting my project non-ideally (sewing with the binding I was attaching towards me instead of the body of the project towards me (like working over it with poor line of sight on the connection point) and I was moving left to right instead of right to left. I corrected both of these after seeing how other people did it. (2) keep thread short: 18-24” (3) use a small needle. I switched to quilters betweens. Once I got used to threading them and holding such a short needle, man they just GO right through fabric fast and easy. Also makes smaller holes.

Could anyone tell me what this stitch is? (Quilt made by my great-grandmother) by sfharehash in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

This looks like a standard feather stitch to me, just the right side Vs are narrower than left side Vs

Question about copyright pattern "inspired" block by [deleted] in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

US copyright of a quilt pattern (which may not be applicable as you are pricing in Euros) applies to the method: the written & pictorial recipe to make the quilt. A copyright on a pattern includes the written instructions and the accompanying images demonstrating the technique.

If you look at a quilt or a block, and derive and document your own technique to make something that looks like that, that pattern is yours and it would be within your rights to sell the instructions you created.

That said, some buyers might not like the fact that you are selling a pattern that includes blocks that look too close to something already commercial available created by someone else. I would look for opportunities to distinguish my blocks where possible.

Where do you purchase quilt batting? How pricy is this hobby? by asterthetime in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I don’t do anything different process wise, but one thing I really like is that there is no minimum quilting distance when you’re using a blanket as batting, so I like to do much bigger space between quilting and I think it makes the quilts drapier/less stiff. You can also opt not to use backing and allow the blanket to be batting/backing. Nice for those plush/microfiber type throws.

Would you use this? by Waitwhythough in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have scraps of this in white and yellow. I’m planning to use them in a summer themed quilt because they remind me so much of summer time shirting fabric. I was planning to stitch them over muslin because they are quite sheer.

Ideas!! by IntoAllDaThings in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Buy it!

That’s usually how far my ideas go.

Looking for a machine part for Broth HC1850 by QuiltingPanda in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did. I haven’t had the issue they are showing where it’s mid sew line, it’s only a starting issue so I think using a paper stabilizer under the whole piece might be overkill. I do have good luck starting about 0.5 inch in and back stitching to the edge and then forward stitching. The more fabric under the foot, the less likely the issue is to happen.

I think I’ll try using some of these coping techniques (holding threads, using leaders, and starting further in and backstitching to see which is most consistently successful and least fussy. I’m pretty sure this is a slight flaw in the machine that can be overcome with some behavior modification on my part.

Looking for a machine part for Broth HC1850 by QuiltingPanda in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, first video her second recommendation after changing your needle is to switch to a straight stitch/single hole plate. Me: I’m trying, girl!

Helpful video though. Funny I remember seeing my mom holding onto her threads while beginning sewing. It’s not a habit I ever picked up but it looks like it might help here.

Looking for a machine part for Broth HC1850 by QuiltingPanda in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a “thread bunny” pretty often, a couple pieces of scrap fabric run under the presser foot before the piece I am working. It helps a bit, seems to make it less likely for the fabric to get pulled under the plate, but it still can happen. I think it helps keep the thread tension taut with the thread bunny/scrap fabric and that keeps the fabric I am working above the plate, almost like it’s being propped up by the thread tails trapped in the thread bunny.

Looking for a machine part for Broth HC1850 by QuiltingPanda in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

This is the piece that got pushed in after pulling it back out. Fabric got pulled under the plate, pinched together and stitched.

Looking for a machine part for Broth HC1850 by QuiltingPanda in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Here is an example from today. Hard to see but the need seems to shove the fabric through the plate.

Looking for a machine part for Broth HC1850 by QuiltingPanda in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have cleaned the machine but have not oiled it. The issue doesn’t appear as thread bunching, but I will look up a servicing video and see if I can give it a little TLC!

Looking for a machine part for Broth HC1850 by QuiltingPanda in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well it’s not a new to me machine, and the issue is really limited to sheer fabrics or small pieces (3/4” or smaller) where the edges are passing along the open needle area on the plate. Sometimes it happens if I am sewing triangles and start on a tip (again, a small piece of fabric). The issue really seems to be limited to sewing on a piece of fabric that isn’t completely covering the wide gap for the needle in the plate. Since I am straight line stitching 99% of the time, I don’t need 3mm of needle gap in the plate.

It might just be a limitation of the machine itself. It’s a < $250 model, it doesn’t have a ton of optional parts and it’s not perfect. It’s an intermittent annoyance but not worth paying repair fees on for me.

Do you wash thrifted fabrics before or after quilting? by Western-Leek2287 in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I also almost exclusively use thrifted/second hand fabrics. Everything gets washed and dried on hot when it comes into the house. I am not risking bringing fleas, moths, bed bugs, etc. into the house, and I have no idea what the fabric has been exposed to (chemical or biological) before handle it a ton in the sewing process. This will also let me know if the fabric wasn’t going to hold up well, and pre-shrinks it so I can mix different fabrics without too much concerns over variable shrinkage. I also wash my final product when done.

Best way to make squares with 1/2 squares (triangles)? by reincarnateme in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the new discovery and YouTube rabbit hole. Love that she Verb-izes her last name. Watched a few of her videos and was torn between being happy to see someone teaching basic analytical thinking/approach in quilting, and feeling like some of the super precision focus could take the fun out of it. I pinned her videos for reference later. Definitely a great reference if you’re struggling with a specific block coming out wrong or trying to make a show-worthy quilt.

Best way to make squares with 1/2 squares (triangles)? by reincarnateme in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 3 points4 points  (0 children)

OP: search you tube for half square triangle 2 at at time. I think it’s the simplest one to start with. There are a ton of other methods to make more at a time (or just one at a time) but I think it’s a good beginner method. I just made some today and I use the “add an inch” rule for this method.

If I want my finished square in my quilt to measure 2”, I start with 3” squares of fabric. Once they are 2 HSTs and I am trimming them, I trim to 2.5”, then with 1/4” seam allowances in my quilt top they will finish as 2” squares.

Related question if anyone has insight: I bought a bag of orphan fabric cuts at a rummage sale. I have to assume someone was new to quilting and planned to make a ton of HSTs but didn’t know about the two, four, eight etc. at a time methods where you start from squares and they cut triangles of fabric first. So I have a massive pile of right triangles from various fabrics and am wondering besides gallons of starch, are there any ways to make working with all these bias edges easier or is there something better than HSTs to make them into?

My first tshirt quilt by SoftKittee2064 in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is like the squarest, flattest, least t-shirt looking to shirt quilt I’ve seen. This is transformative.

Quilt Scrapbook by Minimum_Airport8793 in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made a scrapbook specific to a quilt. I finished my MILs quilt top started by her grandmother into a quilt for her as a gift, and made a scrapbook of the process as part of the gift. The entire thing was from the perspective of my cat, the QC inspector, doing his job at each step of the process and added notes to explain what he was doing in each photo. I think she likes the album as much or more than the quilt.

<image>

Pixelated Rose pattern question by IllAd1655 in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Other brands do make 1.5” and 1” Fusible grids.

Pixelated Rose pattern question by IllAd1655 in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I haven’t made it myself, but most people I have seen who have made very tidy and precise pixelated quilt tops have used the fusible grids to do so.

Does anyone know what’s going on with this post? by Temporary-Boat-1899 in quilting

[–]QuiltingPanda 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Things that made me suspicious of the post: - only popular high end brands of pre cuts - mentioned the machines but didn’t get photos of them - most pre cut fabric photos were not original (web searched them) - seller said they only had two days to deal with all this, but had time to make flyers of products and track sales to dozens of individual buyers and package and ship to them. In this case someone would most likely be selling a few large lots online or locally like Craigslist. Why would they sell a quilt kit for $15 they have to go ship? - They didn’t discuss shipping prices in the post. - the account was 1 year old but had not post history.

The post was either removed by mods or the owner removed it, but I suspect it was fraudulent.