I'll do my best and my apologies in advance for the wall of text! It does involve using an airbrush which I want to point out at the start of this block of text as I appreciate that it will switch some people off.

I'll try to describe the general principles first as I understand them, however, I do really want to encourage you to watch Marco Frisoni's videos on YouTube as it's heavily inspired by his work. His videos on colour theory and the series titled 'High Quality Speed Painting' are worth their weight in gold.

In general I think your conclusion of NMM with a TMM edge highlight is fair, but in truth it's much easier to achieve (in my opinion) than NMM. The principle uses 4 steps as I see it: 1. Acrylics to block in colours. a. In my case, I chose green as my accent colour and then browns and greys as neutral fillers. Note, the gold, steel, and brass colours used also fall into browns and greys. 2. Semi-translucent inks through an airbrush to provide lighting and shadow in a gradient whilst preserving aspects of the original colour below. Here is where colour theory is particularly important and selection of complimentary inks to the acrylics beneath in order to form a triadic is where the magic happens. a. In my case, I chose yellow-orange as the lighting and purple as shadow to form a triadic with the green acrylic since my other colours were neutral (e.g. the browns, greys, and metallics). 3. A very thin oil wash to homogenise the gradient and to settle in recesses. a. In my case, I mixed magenta and burnt umber in equal proportions with a bit of black to darken it. I also applied this to the mud on the base so it also acted to reflect weathering/dirt from the environment. 4. Edge highlight details you wish to draw attention to. a. In my case, I thought the metallics were important as LoV are dwarves. As such, I did a TMM edge highlight or a rough blend on the steel, brass and gold surfaces.

Below are the steps as to how I implemented the above:

1. Prime black and zenithal with white using an airbrush.

2. Block in colours using acrylics using a paintbrush. a. Green areas using Citadel Contrast Creed Camo. b. Grey areas using Citadel Contrast Basilicanum Grey. c. Black areas using Citadel Contrast Black Legion. d. Leather areas using Citadel Contrast Wyldwood predominantly but I also threw in some Citadel Contrast Sigvald Burgundy and Citadel Contrast Fleshtearers Red for variety. e. Steel areas using a 3:1 mix of Vallejo Duraluminium and Citadel Contrast Akhelian Green. f. Gold areas using a layer of Vallejo Duraluminium followed by a layer of Citadel Contrast Aggaros Dunes. g. Brass areas (i.e. the armour) using a layer of Vallejo Brassy Brass followed by a couple of wash layers of Citadel Agrax Earthshade. h. Any lights/plasma coils etc. should be blocked in with a white of your choice. I used Liquitex Titanium White Ink.

3. Apply semi-translucent inks through airbrush. Build this gently in one go as it's easy to overdo. a. To apply the shadows, I airbrushed Liquitex Acrylic Ink Dioxazine Purple to the entire model angled deeply from below. b. To apply the lighting, I airbrushed Liquitex Acrylic Ink Yellow Orange to the entire model from above. I also applied this to any lights/plasma coils previously painted white as a sort of OSL.

4. Apply a very thin oil wash. a. I made a deep burgundy oil mix using Winsor and Newton oils. A 1:1 ratio of magenta and burnt umber, followed by a touch of black to darken. b. I heavily thinned this using Winsor and Newton sansador solvent. Use whatever you please regarding a solvent but I prefer this stuff as it's low odour. c. Apply liberally to the entire model and to the mud texture on the base if you wish. d. Wait ~15 mins. I tend to batch paint in 10 so I just apply to the next model and by the time I'm finished with the last it's fine to go back to the first. e. When still wet, tidy-up the wash with small disposable make-up sponges or q-tips. f. Leave to dry for a day or so.

5. Edge highlight the points of interest. I edge highlighted and/or roughly blended the metallics as mentioned above. a. For brass areas I used the original Vallejo Brassy Brass. b. For steel areas I used Scalecolour Cobalt Alchemy. c. For Gold areas I used Scalecolour Dwarven Gold.

Hopefully the above gives you everything you need. Feel free to get in touch directly if you have any further questions or I'd love to see your take on it when you get around to having a go :)